nuukaprotector

Hi,

I have a Taurus 1993 3.0L engine. The problem is that the car used to start, but after some time (lately after 2-10 minutes) it would completely die. The engine would stall with barely any warning (The check engine light would turn on a second before). After that, when I open the switch to start the car the check engine light wouldnt light up (which is what is supposed to do along with the brake and oil lights), then it would just crank with no luck. If all of them light up, then it would start. And the cycle repeats.

P.D. I thought it was the starter (which effectively died), but it was replaced, but the problem still surfaced. The spark plugs are not the problem as they were replaced too along with the cables.

Bert

Does the fuel pump come on for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position? It shuld every time you turn it to on. When it's cranking, do you get a spark at the wire to the spark plug?

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Bert

nuukaprotector

The car does start normally. However, at any random moment it the engine dies. Off. It has happened while running, while idling (at a traffic light), and even in parking position. The problem comes when I try to start it again. If the check engine light does not light up, the car will only crank as if there were no gas (but it has gas). When I try to start the car again, (you know when you open the switch, all the panel lights up; the check engine light, the brake light, etc.) if the check engine light is not on, the car will only crank. I used to disconnect the positive terminal from the battery for a minute or two, and then the check engine light would come up when the switch is opened.

On a note, I once had a problem with the MAF (the car would stall really bad), but once replaced it started to work well.

Bert

There has to be a connection problem somewhere, even the ignition switch. it'll have to be checked while the problem is present. If it stays that way for awhile, that will help. There's no common problem as far as I can see.

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Bert

chipset

Good thing you described fully your problem. When you have no dash lights or instument lights that tells me there is a MAIN wire problem that feeds that circuit. That circuit feeds the ignition system and fuel pump and ALL related parts that are involved in the
start up. check your ignition switch. Those Tauruses from 86 - 95 are FAMOUS for burning up the ignition switch and harness plug. There is also a main ground connector
under the hood driver side that grounds the battery to everything. There are 2 wires on
one side and 2 on the other side with a gray connector. Cut them off and solder them together. You will find this connector by the rad support and about 3 inches ahead of
the battery. Two wires from the connector will be screwed to the rad support. I've had to do that to all of my Tauruses. First thing.

nuukaprotector

I will check the ignition switch ASAP. However, I need to make a clarification. There are dash lights; the only one that doesnt turns on (and apparently the problem to start it up) is the engine light. The rest of them light up. I hope this picture makes it clearer:



See all the dash panel lighted up? As you know, that's what happens when you open the switch. The thing is, the check engine light wont light up (and the car doesnt starts while it is off) due to some problem I dont know yet.

KStromberg

I just had a no-start/no-CEL condition in my car and it turned out to be a bad PCM (engine computer). That check engine light indicates that there is power to the main computer of your car. I too would be looking for a bad connection, ground wire, or something along those lines. Your symptoms are definitely indicative of power loss to the main computer.

Chipset may possibly be right on in this situation. I would definitely check that main ground first thing. Keep in mind, my situation was not intermittent like yours. My PCM basically just went bad all in one shot. Considering your problem is intermittent(if i understand you correctly) you're just dealing with intermittent power loss to the PCM not a bad PCM itself like in my situation.

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-1992 Ford F-150 (winter truck)
-1998 Lincoln Mark VIII LSC (fun car)13.591@101.72mph

nuukaprotector

Okay, here's an update. I just connected the car to a scanner and it threw a code 33 (apparently "EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor - indicates EGR valve is not opening or, EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor or Pressure Feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve not seated (closed) properly."). That's the code the book of the scanner gives, but if it is wrong, please correct me.

Also, is this a reason for the engine to stall completely and not start for some time? Because it starts when the car is cool, from what Ive noticed.

EDIT: From what Ive been reading on the internet, it is supposed to have 3 digits. But I am sure it flashes 3-3-1-3-3

Bert

Follow this procedure to be sure of getting the code/s. Ford Fuel Injection » How To Run a Self-Test

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Bert

nuukaprotector

Ive followed the guide as you suggested. After reading the scanner manual again, I noticed that the 1 is a separator to repeat the code. So I am confident it is a code 33. My question is, can that be the probem for my car?