peteryjg2008

There are squeaks from the front-left bottom only when turn left. I accordingly checked the connections close to the front-left wheel, and found that the little rubber boot on the sway bar link was broken. Do you think the broken rubber boot is the cause of the squeaks?

I wanted to disconnect sway bar link from the strut, but failed today because If I rotated the nut on the bolt of the sway bar link, the bolt was rotating simultaneously. Could you give me some suggestions about how to loose the nut on the bolt of sway bar link?

Thanks a lot!

tbird100636

Torn boot causes water to get into joint, causing corrosion and noise. Twist the link side-to-side. You'll hear and feel a difference. You have to hold the hex end of the stud with vise grips or with an 8mm box wrench and turning the 18 mm nut (not an easy task on the strut end). Ratcheting box wrenches come in handy here, a company called Blackhawk makes various kinds.

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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic

docholiday48

I know this is an old thread but I still have some questions.

I have a 2000' Taurus with the same symptoms, does any one have the correct name for the boots and link attachments? I would like to find the best place to purchase and how much they typically cost. Once you remove the nut, do you have to press out the bolt, or does it just come apart? My book only tells me where to jack it up at and how to loosen the bolt, but does not say anything about replacing the boot.

Bob

Bert

Ford calls them stabilizer links. They come right out when the nuts are removed. The boots come with the new links. I don't elieve you can get them separate.

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Bert

tbird100636

We were talking about the front sway bar links (AKA Stabilizer bar links, Stabilizer bar end links, sway bar end links). They have a ball stud (Joint) on each end. One end attaches to the sway bar, the other end attaches to the front suspension strut. The boots on the ball studs are not serviced seperately. You have to buy a new sway bar link. They are held on by 2 nuts per side, they thread onto the ball studs. After removing the nuts, the ball studs should slip out of the attaching points, but in very rare cases they can be rusted to the attaching points. A little penetraiting lube, and or a hammer comes in handy here.

When installing the new links, remember to hold the stud from turning while tightening the nut, or hold the nut stationary and turn the stud counter-clockwise until the nut is tight. The replacement links you buy may or may not have greasable ball studs (joints). If they are greasable, make sure you have a grease gun to pump them up slowly with grease. When the grease just starts to come out, stop pumping.

Our site supporter Rock Auto has them, www.rockauto.com ,just click in order:
1. Start
2. Ford
3. 2000
4. Taurus
5. Your engine size based on the 8th digit of your VIN
6. Suspension
7. Stabilizer Bar Link.

The list that pops up is both front and rear sway bar links. Look for Front in the description, Left and Right front are different. It's up to you which ones you buy, whatever you can afford, but i wouldn't go for the Deeza's or Mevotech's. Not brand names I've heard of before. MOOG, A/C Delco, and Raybestos are all well known, they do also offer original Ford Motorcrafts
if you want to spend the extra coin.

__________________
Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic

RickMN

P.S. by the time you see grease coming out, you've already ruptured the boot. Same goes for ball joints. Boot should be firm when pumped with grease. Then stop.

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I'm a retired ASE Master/L-1 Technician. I still keep current with the latest automotive technology. Visit my blog for cool articles and TSB's: http://www.ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/