I have a 99 Taurus that just does not get very warm and warmth is what is needed here during winter in Massachusetts.
I checked the engine temperature via the car's computer, it runs around 200 F which I thought to be normal. There are two things I can think of that might be my problem. The first is a plugged heater core and teh second is the temperature mixing door might not be shutting. I want to look at the door before I try to flush the heater core.
Where do I look to find the mixing door??? Sure, its under the dash someplace but I don't want to just start ripping the heater box apart when there might be a simple way to test see if the door is closing/opening.
Anyone know what I need to look for to get at the mixing door??
Yes Shoz, it is manual. Has the standard heat & A/c.
If the core is plugged my options are somewhat limited. My first thoughts are to taek the hoses off and fill the core with the "purple stuff" sold at Wally World. The purple stuff is a strong detergent that might break up any crap in the core. Next just flush with a hose. Other than that I might be looking at replacing the core..........something I loath to do.
If you pull out the ICP (Radio/Climate Controls) You will see the blend door actuator on the heater box. This is the most common issue. As far as the heater core is concerned, you just pull the dash back, remove the blend door actuator, part of the linkage, then an access door, then after removing the hoses you just pull out the core. If you don't have the full console that's attached to the dash it is fairly easy to get the dash out.
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Thanks Tbird! I will look tomorrow for that door. I have a bad feeling the core is at fault.
Last week I had a failure of the part where one heater hose connects to the engine on the drivers side. There are also two sensors connected to this piece. Anyway, I ordered a new part but was able to repair the old one. The reason for mentioning this is because I had to add additonal coolant because of the leak.
I removed the cap where coolant is added and found what looked to be caked, brown paste. There was quite alot covering the hole under the cap. This leads me to think someone added some kind of junk to the cooling system and if they did, the core might has some of this stuff in it.
Today I looked under the dashbut that was as far as I got in that area. If I had to pull the core, I would be asking a buncH of questions but I THINK I SOLVED MY PROBLEM!!!
I approached the plugged core first. Removed both lines to the heater, not at the heater which is hard to get to but at the ends of tubing coming from the heater pipes. Next I connected an old garden hose (cut the end off) to the pipe on the passenger side of the car using a clamp. I think this is the heater return side. Connected the hose to my house hot water tank and turned on the water.
A little crap came out but I had to run from the basement to the car so maybe I missed a bucket load. Shut the water off, cut the hose attached to the car (about 3'), stuck a funnel into the hose, filled the funnel with the purple stuff found at Wally World. I did this several time to make sure I filled the heater core. Waited about 20 minutes (would have waited longer but it was starting to get dark) and then flushed the heater with more hot water from the house hot water tank.
Reconnected all the heater hoses and took the car for a ride. WHAT A DIFFERENCE!! THE HEATER SEEMS TO BE WORKING FINE!!! If it goes belly up in the near future, I will get back to this post. In the mean while, I will enjoy warmth during thes upcoming cold New England days.
Thanks to Shuz & Tbird for their support and help.
hey man! your post might be the answer to my prayers. I'm getting very weak heat in my 94 taurus 3.0. I already changed the water pump (bad bearings), new radiator, and a stant thermostat, also changed all the hoses, the only thing i havnt touched yet is the core.
I get fairly good heat after the engine has been running, but the return hose is not as hot as the send hose on the core, so my guess its a partially blocked core.
I also saw a tech guy posted on here, does it make a difference to have a stant without a ball bleed hole or a ford stock thermostat with one? what implications does this have on the car? I notice the needle jumps back and borth alot more than before when it had the orignal thermostat from 94 with a bleed hole.
Another question, how do you remove the clamps that look like compression clamps? no screws, but press fit on looks like
Not sure about your clamps. I removed a hose clamp that was held with a screw. One was on the passenger's side right next to the jug for windshield wash. The hose connected to a steel pipe. This is the place a I attached my garden hose using a clamp.
The second hose I removed was on the driver's side. I traced back from where the hose connects into a manifold on the engine. If I remember correctly I pulled the hose at a T connector but I guess I could have pulled it right at the engine.
I am still getting heat with mine but I think I might hit it again sometime this winter. I noticed a lot of gunk in the jug where radiator coolant is added.
Yeah I dont think a 99 Taurus and 94 have the same motor. Basically, there is two small rubber hoses coming off the thermostat housing, one to the inlet of the core, and one to the bypass steel pipe. On the water pump side there is a combining of the bypass pipe and core outlet pipe via a short rubber hose with these compression clamps. I'm not sure if there was a special tool to get them off or just rip em off and put a traditional hose clamp on it, its leaking and theres no way to tighten it there.
I was going to take your advice and take the two rubber hoses off the firewall to the core, and run the hot water through with the garden hose like you did. What was the solvent you used to clean it out?
Last year my radiator overflow tanks cracked, i thought putting this gunky radiator sealer might do the trick, I flushed out the system again, but I dont think it reached the core, its been like it ever since, lukewarm heat, no engine overheat and temp gauge is always 1/4 to middle.
Also do you happen to know does it make a difference to have a stant without a ball bleed hole or a ford stock thermostat with one?
Bassman-- just make sure any hose you play with is from the coolant/heater system. Thge steel pipe pressed into my manifold to which the heater circuit is connected started to leak before I had the heater problem. Don't know if this is where your leak is or not. I fought to get that pipe off mine. The best way is the apply heat, grab it with vice grips and tap it out using a hammer while hot.
Detergent. I happened to use some purple stuff I purchased at either Home Depot or Walmart. ANY STRONG detergent should do the job.
EDIT---- I found that one should never add anything to the radiator other than what is supposed to be there to avoid plugging the cores.
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