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Transmission Flush or Fluid change?

12K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  RogerB34 
#1 ·
I have a 1999 Taurus with a 3L Duratec 24 valve. I'm getting a new car but my son will probably get this one. It has 100,000 km on it and I think that it is due for a transmission fluid flush or change.

Which is the best to go with. Does anyone have the proceedure for a flush?

Thanks,

Ken
 
#2 ·
Have you been doing the trans fluid every 30k miles like the maintenance manual says? Or is this the first fluid change? I'm not a big fan of flushes. But if you have one done, make sure they use Mercon V fluid instead of Dexcron and a bottle of "magic" converter.

Here's an article on the subject: Trans Fluid Flush
 
#4 ·
Here's the easiest and cleanest way to change the ALL the fluid and filter.

1. You may still spill some fluid when dropping the pan. Best just spread out the oil dry before starting.
2. Jack up the car and place on jack stands.
3. Next disconnect the line on the drivers side of the aux ATX cooler. Put the tranny side line in a five gallon bucket. Attach a piece of 3/8" hose to the cooler where you just disconnected the line and place it on the bucket.
4. Start the engine and wait until the fluid almost stops. There will be a definite difference in the amount flowing out.
5. Stop the engine.
6. Start loosening the bolts on the pan. There is still 3-4 quarts in the pan. Position a drain pan under the tranny pan and on the drivers side. Loosen and remove all the bolts but two on the passenger side. This will let the drivers side tip down as you then slowly loosen the remaining two. After the pan is mostly down and the fluid is in the drain pan remove the pan completely and replace the filter. Be sure to remove the rubber ring that will stick up in the tranny filter mount. Just bend it in with a screwdriver and pull it out with a needle nose. Do not scratch the aluminum tranny filter holding housing.
7. Reusing the OEM gasket and in a three pass sequence progressively tighten every other bolt until all are tightened. Do not over tighten as they really just need to be snug. Use a 1/4" ratchet drive socket.
8. Then add 10 quarts. Start the motor and wait until it almost stops pumping fluid out or until you see new fluid coming out. Better to waste a quart or two of new fluid to insure all the old stuff is out.
9. When the flow has almost stopped, shut off the engine and reconnect the hoses.
10. Add 5 quarts, idle motor and check level keeping it on the low side on the dipstick.
11. Then drive the car for a while to heat up the tranny fluid and recheck and top off the fluid.


The pan gasket is reusable if it is the OEM rubber one. Total system capacity is around 14-15 quarts. Buy a couple of extra quarts to get all the old stuff out.
 
#7 ·
I used the procedure that you posted and it worked great. Replaced the filter with an OEM Ford filter and reused the original pan gasket.

The old fluid didnt smell burnt but it was pretty dark compared to the new fluid that was a clear red. The magnet had a pretty good build-up of metal sludge on it, almost like a paste, is that normal.

Thanks for the help.
 
#10 ·
I use 20k or color test to determine tranny service. Dot of tranny fluid on white paper towel and compare to new. Should be close and not dark and absolutely not black. I also installed 5 30 lb quarter sized magnets to inner pan in addition to Ford magnet. Cost was about $15 for the magnets. Oil is an insulator so don't sweat the magnetic field.
 
#13 ·
I also cut my filter open to see what I would find. I only saw a couple of very small metalic particles, probably aluminum.

What is the sludge on the magnet and the light covering of gray that builds up in the pan from, is it mostly clutch material.
 
#14 ·
Note that NO tranny filter maker states the micron debris removed as do oil filter makers - about 20 microns. My WAG is about 100 microns. The tranny filters out large pieces and by then it's too late. The makers can't go to low microns because the tranny needs volume of fluid and high filtration wouldn't permit. Sludge on the magnet is normal ferrous, steel friction plate wear. That's why I added magnets. Strong magnets are available for external application for around $50. My method is cheaper.
 
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