djzva

I did search, and i also surfed through the first 13 pages of post. sorry if this a duplicate

I am looking for tips and ticks to change the rear the plugs and wires on a 2005 Taurus Vin U.

I did some quick checks on it the other day and split some coolant, after replacing the rim my wife bent . Then i took it to the wash bay and sprayed off the engine and washed rinsed the body. Didn't really dawn on me that it was 19 degrees out at the time.

Later that day its got a bad miss and a cel. I know, dumb me for doing this to myself when the car was running fine. I took it to advance and found codes for miss fire, as this was obvious.

I removed and cleared the front 3 plugs and wires. Unplugged and plugged the 2 in the rear that i could reached for sure. The last one i can reach, but not too sure if i can get it off without damaging it (the wire). Removed brought inside and cleaned the ignition coil (saw no cracks)

Car has 92,000, so its due for its first tune up so at this point. I figure i would just replaced Plugs and wires (due @ 1000,000 by the factory book) and possibly the ignition coil if that doesn't work.


thanks
Dan

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1995 Probe SE 170,000miles
2005 Taurus SE 85,000miles

R.S.LOGAN

Not sure if this applies to your year / model , might help .

How do I access the rear spark plugs on a 2002 Ford Taurus; 6-cyl.?

2002 Ford Taurus; 6-cyl.; 3.0L
The rear plugs are buried and incredibly difficult to get to without removing parts -- but what and how exactly do I need to remove?
Rear plugs are buried underneath the manifold, on the top-center of the engine block .. Before attempting to remove this, does anyone have any helpful advice?


What engine is the Taurus equipped with? Is it the 3.0L OHV V6 (eighth digit of VIN 'U'), or the 3.0L Duratec DOHC 24-valve V6 (eighth digit of VIN 'S')? If it's the 3.0L OHV V6, access should be relatively straightforward. You may need to use a short extension and a swivel type socket, but it's still fairly easily accessible. If you are referring to the 3.0L Duratec engine, you need to unbolt the upper intake plenum to access spark plugs to bank #1. Doing so is a relatively simple task. Just remember to unbolt the EGR tube first. Hope this helps.

ADDED: As I've advised, you will need to remove the upper intake plenum to access the spark plugs on bank #1 cylinders The only tools needed for this are a 5/16" socket with suitable extension and 10mm for the two EGR valve bolts if you don't have the 1-1/16" wrench for the EGR tube. The gaskets between the two should be reusable, unless it is absolutely oil soaked and squished, which even if, they aren't expensive.

Thank you so much. .. Instead of tearing the thing to bits, 8 bolts later I'm finished with the tune-up..!

tbird100636

On either the 3.0L Duratec (VIN S) or 3.0L Vulcan (VIN U) the upper intake does not have to be removed. Where the original poster has a 3.0L Vulcan, it should be very easy. Just twist the plug wire boot back and forth a few times then pull it off the spark plug. The coil end is a squeeze tab setup. Then using a spark plug socket and extension if needed remove the spark plugs. Removing the right cowl screen and the plastic panel it sits on will open things up a little more.

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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic