Hello all... I replaced my water pump about this time last year. Of course, the impeller was deteriorated to the point that the pump would not work unless at a high RPM. Well, one year later and I am not having the same symptoms as before. The car runs fine, but after a while it will overheat unless I am moving, or if I put the car in neutral or park while at a stop sign/light so the RPMs increase. I replaced the thermostat today but it did not help. Oh, and I have no heat. Also, about 2 months ago at T coupler for the water bypass hose sprung a leak. None of the local dealers had them in stock and said it would take weeks to get one. I ended up putting one together from hoses from NAPA. It worked quite well. Anyway, I flushed the system and got all of the brown coolant out. I even backflushed the system and the heater core. Now, I am dealing with this overheating issue again. When I removed the thermostat, I started the car and water just trickled out of the engine, even though there was plenty of coolant in the reservoir. My guess is the fins on the replacement water pump have already deteriorated and I will have to replace it again. I was just wondering if it was possible for this to happen in such a short period? Any ideas on how to properly diagnose this without removing the water pump. I will do it as a last resort. Thanks.
wow its possible that the water pump has gone bad in a year. But I would like to ask are you using a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, or just a straight blend of coolant? And after you back flushing the system thru the core are you now getting heat?
This sounds as tho you have a clogged some where in the system,,,where I would not have a clue.
Good luck in this, and could you please provide some more info on this???
Yes, I am pretty much using 50/50. After I back flushed I did get heat, though it was in the summer so it was hard to tell. However, the water did flow well through the heater core. I too thought I may have a clog, so I just threw the garden hose in the coolant reservoir and turned it on. Water began flowing well out the other side of the engine where I took off the thermostat and housing. I'm not sure what other information you want but will answer any questions.
Oh, and now I do not have heat. I know this because after running the A/C on max for a long time and then turning the temp to hot, the air remains cold. This is probably due to the possible low head pressure of the water pump... or the possible clog. Granted, the bypass and radiator offer much less resistance for water flow so there isn't that much flowing through the heater core.
How did it go wjasonh? I have replaced my water pump last year due to the same problem. Fixed that and have had no heat for some time before and after that. I replaced radiator, thermostat, heater core, and water pump still no hot heat unless RPM's are around 3k I mean it will get pretty warm but not hot like it should unless revs are up. Don't know if it will be good enough for my michigan winters when it gets like 10 out. Could this be a vacuum control for the dash controls like bi level, floor, defrost? I have the AC disconnected for now because I don't really need it and when the heater core was replaced I was told the AC would not shut off. Any ideas would really help me out.
Are you using an after market pump ? Is your cooling system bled properly ? The
heater cores on those engines are above the motor and they are a night mare to bleed
all the air out. Your both describing and air lock. If your after market pump has a plastic
impeller and the motor has an air lock the water will boil in the pump housing melting
the impeller in time. Are you using the proper thermostat. I don't remember but ithink that engine uses a 198 deg. stat. Yes your " blend " motor could be bad. The plastic shaft wares and the door jams. Good luck
Well, I'm biting the bullet and taking the water pump off this Saturday. I will have a new one on hand in case the impellors are deteriorated again.
I appologize for not responding sooner but thought, better later than never. Anyway, the problem was the water pump again. The impellers had deteriorated. It is an aftermarket water pump from AutoZone. They replaced it for free so I was out only 1 afternoon and about $30 for anti-freeze and some high temp silicone for the gasket. After that the car ran great for about 1 1/2 years.
Now, just today the symptoms returned. Based on my experience, I think the impellers have deteriorated yet again. I would love to find one that used plastic impellers and am willing to pay for it rather than get another free one from AutoZone. Man, this is terrible. I even checked and there is a ground strap between the water pump and firewall to prevent electrolysis which is suppose the be the cause of this. I guess I could make this an anual thing. It only takes a couple of weeks for my knuckles to heal from scraping off the old gasket; which by the way is the longest part of the replacement process. I will be researching for a better water pump and will let you know what I find.
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