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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-09-05, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

Hey, I have a question about a cowling that is in very bad shape. I need to know what is the best way to get rid of all the rust and there are little holes also from the rust that also needs to be taken care of. I am new to rebuilding cars and this is my very first and i am a kid that wants to learn and to do things right the first time so i would appreciate it if someone could help. My second question is about the body.My car is all the way down to bare metal and it has already been sand blasted so all the rust is gone but not the holes. I need to know what is the best way to get all the holes covered and still be doing the right thing on bare metal, so i am not using bondo everywhere. I heard about something called Evercoat Rage that is supposed to be helpful and i need someones advice. If someone needs to see some pictures i would be glad to e-mail them to you. Thanks nick

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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-09-05, 08:28 PM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

Are they actual holes going straight through the metal? How big are they? If they are actual holes, I'd strongly recommend finding someone who can weld you some patches and smooth them out. If they're not big (smaller than a dime), maybe you can patch with something else, but I wouldn't trust anything short of patch welding.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-09-05, 10:53 PM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

Most likely you will need some new metal welded in to the areas that are rusted badly enough to have holes through.

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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 02:54 AM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

If you want to do it properly weld in some patches.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 07:50 AM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

If it's just pitted (imperfections in metal, but not all the way through), though, you can use your choice of bondo, fiberglass, or whatever. Just be very careful not to use too much.Many would say for pitting, bondo is best. I would agree with them, personally.

Do you have a camera? Can you post pictures of what you're seeing?
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

Is there a part that i can but that i can weld back in the whole entire vent and the cowling. If so please tell me the site and how much its worth.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 07:17 PM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicks66
Is there a part that i can but that i can weld back in the whole entire vent and the cowling. If so please tell me the site and how much its worth.
Can you say that in English?
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-10-05, 09:12 PM
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Re: 1966 mustang coupe !!BODY!!

should be repop cowl available as they were common to rot. on bare metal I would STRONGLY recommend putting metalprep on immediately- sandblasting will leave a surface that rusts overnight, and sand will get into hidden nooks and crannys that wont dry properly...metalprep is weak phosphoric acid that will attack any rust...converts iron oxide into stable iron phosphate coating that wont rust...this will prevent paint blistering from underneath...in humid areas, you cannot paint fast enough after sanding/blasting to prevent microscopic rust from starting first. phosphoric acid etches the surface/stops oxidation in its tracks. use lots of water to rinse. then use a lot more. then even more. once youre sure all acid has been washed away, be sure to rinse again :)

guy at work showed me this stuff long ago...took a piece of new sheetmetal, scotchbrited it, wiped metalprep on one half, let it sit a few minutes, thoroughly rinsed it off and sat it outside wet. came in next day, and untreated side was orange. other was still shiny. very cool stuff.

Confidence: that feeling you have just before you realize the mess you've gotten yourself into...
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