C4 to AOD upgrade for 66 Coupe... simplicity??? - Ford Forums

04-04-2002, 19:43

Among many other upgrades to my 66, I want to put in an AOD 5-speed tranny. I'm eyeing one right now, but I don't want to jump on it (without having some info first) because my car is in the very early stages of restoration. So...

Will the swap be an easy one? I've heard it can be done, but are there any tricks that I should know? Adapter, etc.? What about rebuild kits? Overall, is it very expensive to do this kinda job?

I really don't know what to ask, so any help will be appreciated.

Thanks!

tyrantX · 04-04-2002, 21:29

Fortunately, there is good aftermarket support for this custom swap. Windsor Fox is pretty much one stop shopping though, they have crossmembers, flexplates, linkage(so you can keep your stock shifter), throttle valve cables, wiring, etc,etc.
Stock AODs are a little weak compared to the AODE or 4R70W, but I don't know how to deal with the electronic shifting.
However, the AOD can be beefed up. Baumann Engineering has lots of info on what needs to be done and what year and donor car for the tranny is correct. Lentech sells them already built too, and I'm sure there's lots of others that would come up in a google search.

ZoNiE · 04-05-2002, 07:45

From What I heard about the AOD and it being a weak link is that you don't want to place an incredible amount of horsepower or torque in front of it then go race it. Otherwise, it does fine for what it needs to do.

Got 300 h.p.?

04-05-2002, 08:11

The AOD can be weak? How about compared to the C4? Everything in my car is stock right now, and if I do end up going for some HP upgrades, I'm sure I won't get it up to 300!

I guess I'll get on Google and look around. I tried doing a search on here, but came up with pretty much nothing.

Oh, BTW -- The tranny I'm looking at came out of an 89 Mustang LX.

Bobnoxious · 04-05-2002, 23:01

I would think if you upgrade the cluch and pressure plate you should be Ok. Check into Ford Motorsport or some after market stuff..

Gearhead99 · 04-06-2002, 18:04

Are you talking about changing from a C-4 to a manual 5-speed or to an AOD, which is a 4-speed automatic??

If you're changing to an AOD, I can help you out. I changed my 68 FB a little over a year ago from a C-4 to an AOD. It was well worth it and I beefed up the AOD. I also added an Art Carr convertor and one piece input shaft. This does away with the convertor lock-up. You still have O/D just not the lock-up. I tried it with the lock-up for a while then changed it to without. Runs and preforms much better without lockup.

tyrantX · 04-06-2002, 20:18

You've got a premium setup there Gearhead99. I overlooked the fact that the AOD in question is for an I6. A stock AOD would suffice and save him alot of money because as was stated it's good upto 300hp.
Here's some condensed info plagerized from the Baumann Engineering site:

All AOD transmissions can have either a seven or eight tooth speedometer drive gear machined into the output shaft. Generally speaking, vehicles with 2.73-1 axle ratios may have an eight tooth output shaft. If unsure, it would be wise to remove the extension housing and count the helical teeth. Depending upon tire size used, an eight tooth output shaft may make speedometer correction difficult for axle ratios lower (numerically higher) than 3.27-1. Unfortunately, output shafts cannot be changed without disassembling the transmission
If you are seeking an old-style AOD, remember that most of these transmissions are quite old and crusty now, so choose carefully.
Try to avoid pre-1988 models without rear-lube enhancement. It is likely that planet bushing damage may have already occurred, mandating expensive new gear-train parts as well as an updated output shaft.

1992-93 E and F series trucks (those with AOD�s and not E4OD�s) contain the strongest production AOD transmissions. Included is the two-inch wide overdrive band (part of the Motorsport Wide Ratio Kit, or available as a separate conversion kit from Baumann Engineering for close-ratio applications, and highly recommended for full-throttle use of overdrive) and the now-famous "A" overdrive servo.

All Thunderbird SC supercharged V-6 transmissions contain the "A" servo (its original application) and the strong H.O. V-8 style clutches but still use the 1.5-inch overdrive band.

In situations other than those listed above, any 1988 or later V-8 AOD transmission (steer clear of the base V-6 units) should prove adequate for most AOD buildups. Be warned, however, that most Lincolns and some trucks use a one-inch-longer output shaft than the Mustang and other vehicles. Naturally, you will have to re-use your vehicle�s manual lever and external linkage
Retrofit swappers can use the AOD in earlier 3.8L V-6, many straight 6 and most small-block V-8 applications by relocating the transmission cross-member rearward a few inches (or modifying the transmission mount) and fabricating TV linkage/cable bracketry (for AOD). As long as the engine will mate with the AOD�s small-block bell housing pattern, it can be used with these transmissions. It is important to use a flex-plate (automatic transmission flywheel) that is properly balanced for your engine (correct year and displacement) and will accept a full-size torque converter with an 11-3/8-inch bolt circle. Additionally, the flex plate must have a 164 tooth ring gear and should be used with the correct starter and block plate. Shift linkage and drive shaft length will vary on a case-by-case basis and may need little or no modification in some cases.

When adapting the original AOD transmission to an earlier vehicle, proper TV valve operation must be achieved. Do not use a traditional Ford carburetor "kick-down" lever to actuate the TV linkage, as this will not work and will likely cause transmission damage due to low TV pressure. To obtain functional carbureted TV linkage, you should either refer to an original CFI or carbureted car for dimensions and proper geometry or purchase a cable system such as the "Total Performance" kit or the 1991 carbureted 5.8L LTD police package pieces (listed below). Special thanks go to Mike Braun for providing the part numbers listed in the chart below.
Part Number Description
F0AZ-7F042-A TV Cable
F0AZ-9A758-B Throttle Cable (may not be necessary)
F0AZ-9728-A Throttle and TV Cable Bracket (intake manifold mounting)
E1AZ-9725-A Shaft Assembly
F0VY-7F136-A TV cable bracket (transmission mounting)

If all else fails, use the common sense approach, making sure that the TV lever on the transmission is at idle when the throttle is at idle, and likewise for full throttle. There is some extra travel built into the transmission�s TV lever to allow for adjustment, so that a small amount of transmission lever travel (but not too much) may be left at full throttle. Be careful that the transmission lever does not bottom-out and prevent the throttle from opening all of the way. Regardless of how you fabricate your TV linkage, you must provide a means of adjusting the TV rod or cable length in addition to providing the correct linkage ratio.

As a general guideline for adjustment, keep in mind that low TV pressures cause soft, early shifts, and can be corrected by lengthening the linkage rod (or tightening the cable) , while high pressures cause harsh, late shifts and can be corrected by shortening the linkage rod (or loosening the cable). If in doubt, err on the high side of normal, because too much TV pressure is always better than too little. The ideal factory setting for TV pressure in an AOD is such that a TV cable equipped vehicle will have no slack nor any tension in the cable with the throttle fully closed (at curb idle position, engine need not be running). These guidelines may also be used for TV rod configurations. TV pressure may be raised slightly to improve transmission shift feel and to raise part-throttle shift-points. Avoid going too far with TV, as coasting down-shifts will become harsh and "clunky". If doubts prevail, consult a professional for assistance with your TV linkage

Gearhead99 · 04-07-2002, 06:41

tyrantX,

You're right on with the Baumman stuff. I used their recomendations on the upgrades. I bought over the counter [I have a auto/tk repair garage] "A" servo, wide ratio gear set, 2" band, diode clutch and all the TV cable stuff they list.

I used everything except some of the TV cable stuff. I used cable and brkt. on trans only. I adapted the 68 stuff. Wasn't that hard.

I also used the Windsor-Fox crossmember. Good idea, you can get the trans pan off now. Also, used the Hughes deep sump aluminum finned trans. pan. This is a very nice piece and adds two qts. or so of fluid.

My speedo is off around 10 mph. But, with the 3.50 gears and the wide gearset and Art Carr convertor....Wow !!!!! does it come out of the hole. Before the convertor it would smoke the tires forever and shift violantly into second. Now it hooks and just keeps pulling.

The AOD makes a good addition on the highway when you're cruising to a car cruise.

One thing though. You need to match the flexplate balance to your engine balance. 28 vs 50 oz. Since mine is a 289 I used the 80 Lincoln 302 flexplate.

Engine is a 289, .060 over, retro-hyd-roller Crane cam, 7 1/2 qt aluminum "T" Cobra oil pan, windage tray, roller rockers, ported heads, l.94/l.6 valves, Hooker headers and dual AFB's.

Runs pretty good for small block.

04-29-2002, 08:28

Okay, new question:

How much should I expect to spend (not counting tranny) on this swap. Im looking at a 92 Mustang AOD from Ebay that didn't sell, so the guy is thinking about selling it to me for the reserve ($60). It's rebuilt with only 37k miles on it. I'm not a serious speed freak, so I don't want to drop a grand on this. $300 to $400 at most, but I don't have any idea how much this costs, so I could be guessing way too high. Anyway...

How much will an AOD upgrade cost me?

Also, what about the driveshaft? Will I have to cut it and weld it back together, or is there a company that makes to shorter piece I'll need?

04-29-2002, 10:18

Okay, I went on Windsore Fox and got prices. Here they are:

AOD Crossmember: 147.95
28.2oz Flexplate: 98.95
Fastener Kit: 34.95
TV Cable: 84.95
Shiftrod Kit: 58.95
Tranny Short Harness: 60.00
Dipstick and Tube: 61.00
Converter Coverplate: 46.00
Blockplate: 49.00
Driveshaft Yoke: 94.00
------
735.73

Ouch! I hope that ALL I'll need. It's more than I wanted to pay.

Question about the flexplate: Windsore Fox said the 50oz plate was for 81 and up Mustangs, and the 28oz was for pre-81 with 289/305/351 engines. What about my little 6 cylinder? Is this upgrade even possible for my car?