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Re: Discount Tire Direct Vehicle Build: Project "ICONIC"
The purpose of this build thread is to share before and after information and photos, while showcasing after market products and services in the effort to create a better performing FoxBody.
This vehicle will be set-up for HPDE driving
Here are some of the original specifications on this 1990 Ford Mustang GT
Front: Independent, modified MacPherson strut with Separate spring on lower arm and stabilizer bar
Front Springs: Helical coil, rubber-insulated
Rear: Four-bar link with coil springs on lower arm
Rear Springs: Helical coil, rubber-insulated
Rear Shocks: Gas pressurized hydraulic (4 shocks in total)
Sway Bars: Front~26.5 mm, Rear~23mm
Steering: Power assisted rack and pinion with 15.3:1 ratio
Front Brakes: 10.84 inch rotors
Rear Brakes: 9 inch drums
Wheels: 15x7 +22mm 4-108 aluminum wheels
Tires: 225/60ZR15 Goodyear Eagle VR60
For the first installation on Project "ICONIC", I installed a new AutoMeter 5" Tachometer with optional Shift Light. I went with the Phantom II Series because I love the all matte black housing and the difference in night and day illumination. I'm not sure if AutoMeter makes one already but if they don't, an all matte black mounting bezel would really be a nice touch for this series.
I first needed to figure out how to wire this beast in. Being that this was my first Tach install, I was originally going to follow the instructions provided by AutoMeter. Instead I got to thinking that I could somehow utilize the wiring harness that connects the radio. So I went ahead and pulled the radio and found I could do just that.
On the harness I decided to T-Tap into the 12V Ignition/Acc. wire and Chassis Ground wire.
For the Tach's light, I had the option of connecting into the Dimmer wire so the light only comes on when the vehicle lights are on or the Illumination wire. I decided to run the light off the Illumination wire so that the Tach light will always be on.
Next I needed to figure out were to run the Tachs coil signal wire to. I pulled the coil cover off the vehcile and found the negative terminal located on the coil plug. For those who may not know, the negative coil wire is tan with a yellow stripe.
Now that I knew where everything would be wired, it was time to figure out where to mount the Tach. As most of you probably guessed, I mounted it on the dash just to the right of the drivers side cluster.
I then drilled a hole in the dash where all the wires would be run and installed a rubber grommet for a clean look.
After fishing all the wires down the drilled hole, I ran the Tachometer's SIGNAL COIL wire (green) through a boot under the driver side dash. Again using a T-Tap connector, I made the connection to the negative coil wire.
Now that the coil wire was taken care of, it was time to run the LIGHT (white), GROUND (black), and POWER (red) wires off the Tach into the radio compartment and make the necessary connections.
With everything connected, it was time to test functionality. Here's a quick video...
After a sigh of relief :) I put the radio back in and hid any exposed wires with black cable cover.
Re: Discount Tire Direct Vehicle Build: Project "ICONIC"
If you don't mind I would like to add this to the How-to's, but I would need to make some changes to title and beginning, mostly to state what the How-to is for, and what make model and year Ford.
The title would need to say " How-to: 1990 ford mustang 5.0 RPM tach"
And I would need to start the beginning out saying what your doing this for. And of course to give you credit for the write up at the bottom of the whole thing.
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