glxstang

Can someone explain to me if I remove my EGR valve what other modifications must I make. I am in a non emissions testing state and would like to get rid of the thing when I have my rebuild done.
Thanks for any info you all might have.

kroymk4

Hi. You don`t mention what engine you are rebuilding.
If you are changing the intake manifold for more performance, then get a non-emission intake. If you
are not changing intakes, then you need an egr plate
to cover the port on the manifold. You may encounter
a spark knock with this set up on the 3.8 V-6. The
302 w/manual trans will run better either way. If
you have the EFI auto trans 302 be careful because
the egr has an input signal to the computer. Disconnect
the plug from the egr with the engine running. Pull the
vacuum line and plug it.reconnect plug. observe how
engine runs. If your knock sensor is working properly,
you should notice improvement. If engine runs poorly
after disconnection you are at the mercy of the EEC
system. Some engines run very rough others run better.
I tried this on my 83 town car and the engine stalled
immediatly and would not start until the egr was plugged back in. Get rid of the AIR pump! that robs
power. Dual exhaust 2 1/2" all the way back with headers. If you have any questions e-mail me direct
and I will help you. I have an 85 GT that is mildly modified as above and believe me it moves.

glxstang

Sorry, It is a stock '83 5.0 GLX Conv. I want to put on a set of GT-40 heads, new intake and carb and was wondering if I still need the EGR valve. Should I still go with the non emissions
intake, and what carb would you suggest?

Thanks for the info!
PM

P71Times2

I'm running a low 12 second LX 'Stang, and since I live in a State
that doesn't have emission or equipment checks I have deleted
all the smog stuff on it.

There is a real good site that has step by step instructions for
getting rid of the smog stuff if you State doesn't require checks.

I'll look the site address up and send it to you..

P71Times2

Also, we are very involved with building the carb'd Mustangs. If you
are going that route, not EFI, you might something similiar to the
following. It's a rebuilt a friend just put in this Mustang, and he is
currently running mid 12's N/A at around 110 MPH..

650 Holley DP, 71/77 Jets, 45 Power Valve,
Crower 15512 Cam (222/228 @ .050 .406/.512 lift)
Weiland Stealth Dual Plane intake
Power Heads (not much different than the GT40 heads)
Mallory 140 GPH fuel pump with 1/2" lines
MSD 6AL ignition
MSD Blaster coil
MSD Billet distributor

Thats a solid combination, and a good starting point for any
302 carb'd setup..