I thought I would post some tricks that I have learned and used over the last 10 years as I think about them. Todays trick:
For those of you that have manual transmission cars (and those of you that have converted them) there is one part that just does not seem to be available, the clutch pedal rubber stop.clutch pedal rubber stop ! These little buggers should cost like $.02 to make, but no one does. If yours is gone or mangled all you have to deal with for the life of your car is the "clak, clak, clak" of the pedal vibrating and metal on metal contact every time you let the clutch out. Try this. Take a 67-68 adjustable hood stop (cost $2), add some big washers and a nut, presto! Hoodstop becomes clutch stop! Email for any additional questions or post your own!
How many of you have wanted a tach , but were not willing to pay the $$$ for a factory in dash style and didn't want to put one clamped to the steering wheel or the dash?
Also I will bet you have a big hole where the clock should be, give you any ideas??? Sunpro (lower quality gauge brand) makes a 3 inch tach that fits perfectly into the clock spot. Just remove the instrument cluster, remove the blockoff peice, take the tach and remove the front bezel and glass. Now the soft outerhousing will fit kinda snug into the clock spot. The only this left to do is support it in the back. I used a coat hanger that was wrapped through the holes from the blockoff screws. DONE!
You may also wish to paint over the sunpro or whatever brand name info may be on yours BEFORE you put it into the dash. I just used a flat black paint pen. You could get it more fancy and use semi gloss/semi matte spraypaint.
The finished product is almost undetectable. Most people don't even realize I have "messed" with the configuration. Works fine for all but all out race applications. I run my car at the track once a month and have never had a problem seeing the road and the tach at the same time!
Time: 2 hours
Level of difficulty:2 (1-10, 1 being spark plugs, 10 being engine swap)
I tried for years to make these $20 ones from Discount auto parts, NAPA, Pep boys, and Autozone work. I figured it was my motor that was weird. I would drill them out, bend the ears and pry them into place. Some would be better than others (from the same vendor), but still they all sucked.
FINALLY I SAW THE LIGHT!
The motor mounts are still available from ford, for about $80....pricey I know. But, they fit PERFECTLY, the first time. Just jack the motor up, bolt up to the motor drop it down and the frame holes line up, problem solved! Now if I can only get a brake line that fits.....
Just a couple of cleaning tips, one for your car, one for you....
Ever had oil under the hood and engine compartment that messes up everything, but don't have a good way to clean it. Sure, plenty of scrubbing helps, but there has to be a better way right.... Try this, use hand cleaner! You know, the kind that you rub in and wipe off. Don't get the kind with pumice or any kind of abrasives in it, jus the regular kind. It cleans real strong, washes with water, and just a little wax protects the area when you are done!
Ever found yourself in the bathroom after cleaning up for the day. Washed yourself in the hand sink in the shop, taken a good long shower, and its 5 min until you are suppost to be leaving for a dinner date with your mate (but you are running late cause you just had to see if that last idea you had would work). Suddenly you look in the mirror and realize you missed a big dirty, greasy spot on your arm (or back, or face, or neck). What do you do??? Return to the shop (across the house or across town)? Since you are late already this would not be a good idea! Just try that toothpaste you have laying there! Pastes work best, just a little on some tp and rub away. Obviously if you have the better half of a grease gun on your forehead it won't help, but for those stubborn areas of "dull black" it works great! Just rinse the residue off and presto, you are back from the dog house!
Ok, we all have them. Nasty old bolts, eyesores to say the least. Keep in mind I use these techniques on my driver, street car and I don't always worry that every bolt and screw is correct to 1967. For the street you want something that will look good and require little effort to get there.
There are 2 ways to go about this.
Painting with the spray can is probably the thing we all started with, but how do you paint all your bolts without having multi colors fingers?? and what do you do with them to dry? Fear not! It is a cheap and easy solution. Got any old 2x4s or 1x4s around? Just take one and drill a bunch of 1/4 and 1/2 inch holes in it. should be about 2 feet long. Insert the bolts into the board and spray away! If you need to do a board for nuts, just buy some small wooden dowling. Drill holes that are just a little smaller than the dowling and allow the dowling to stick about 1/2 inch above the board. Now with these setups they are easy to move, easy to paint and will be ready when you are!
2. paint (the kind you can't see)
Always keep a can of clear spraypaint around. There are times when little bolts or hood hinges just look better natural, but you know 6 months down the road the rain and weather is going to get to them. Just hit them with the clear coat! If you are worried that they look a little glossy you can pick up a satin clearcoat too. Those MCA judges will be able to tell, but no one else will (and they won't be looking at your rusting stuff either!)!
glad you liked them! I am finding it odd that I can help others with this hobby now. I started at 16 and knew nothing. I still feel like I know nothing, but every once in a while I find someone who is struggling with something I have already delt with. I had a lot of very nice people take me, a 16 yo kid with a desire, intrest, but no money or knowledge and help me out. I had guys give me real breaks on prices on their parts and spend entirely too much time explaining something that I should have been able to get the first time they told me. Now I get to give back.
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