Oblivion

Hello.

Today, I decided I would finally test the spark plug wires, and the coil pack itself.
After a quick visual inspection: I see no corrosion, rust, 'carbon marks,' cracks, or anything else out of the ordinary (not even dust or dirt).

The spark plug wires themselves read 0 ohms for all. That seemed kind of odd, but acceptable (they're old, but still good).

The coil pack is what gets me: I don't believe I am doing anything wrong. I've read two different sites (AutoZone being one) where it explains how to test it.
The readings I'm getting are making no sense to me. ALL circuits are reading 0 ohms. I thought there was supposed to be resistance?

The pin-connectors (1-2-3) are all showing 0 ohms. No matter what pair you measure.
The 'towers' also read 0 ohms.

Here's a picture of the multimeter (which isn't broken AFAIK, other than the center button needing to be held down manually) in use:
- http://i.imgur.com/NmnLF.jpg

Any ideas? Thanks.

Bert

I'd get another multi-meter. Then see what everything reads. The plug wires are supposed to be approx. 5k ohms per ft.

__________________
Bert

jwko

Check the battery in the meter if its a needle type. The Ohm setting uses power from the meter.

Oblivion

Yeah. That sounds about right.

The multimeter was definitely bad. I asked the owner.
That's when I decided to borrow another multimeter, and here are the results:
2.55Ω (Cylinder #4)
3.92Ω (Cylinder #3)
4.18Ω (Cylinder #2)
5.15Ω (Cylinder #1)

These are the stock OEM Motorcraft spark plug wires AFAIK.

The readings are pretty consistent (when you actually make contact).

Cylinder #2 bounced from 4.18 to 4.19 at some points, but, it was steady on 4.18 for the longest.

Bert

The wires are okay but what about the coil readings? Is the car running bad?

__________________
Bert

Oblivion

Tower #1 (coil 1 to 4) read: 9.63Ω
Tower #2 (coil 3 to 2) read: 9.61Ω

I forgot to read the pins. I'll do that later this morning, after I go to sleep and wake up.
It should be: Pin-1 to pin-2 (power) and then pin-3 to pin-2 I believe.

But I'm starting to believe the ignition coil is good (AutoZone said they'd test it for free; But do not have the tester at the store).

I actually did a dry-cold compression check on the cylinders, and here's the data with 8-cranks (throttle body was not open):
Cylinder #1: 185 PSI
Cylinder #2: 185 PSI
Cylinder #3: 185 PSI
Cylinder #4: 175 PSI

Then I decided (because you're supposed to do it warm anyway) to see what the maximum PSI was (dry, cold); It took ~30 cranks (throttle body was open):
Cylinder #1: 200 PSI
Cylinder #2: 210 PSI
Cylinder #3: 210 PSI
Cylinder #4: 195 PSI

I will warm it up tomorrow, buy new oil, and test it warm, then try to redneck leak-down test it (with just a single air compressor gauge).

... Or maybe I'll call up AutoZone and see if they have an actual leak-down tester I could borrow.

EDIT:
Yes. It's running funky. When I went to AutoZone to rent the tools, I asked if they could hook up the OBD-II meter and see if it had any codes.
Cylinder #1 was running too lean. Cylinder #4 was running too rich (spark plug was mildly fouled; I told him #4 would read too rich (if anything)).

I had rented a compression tester, and fuel pressure tester, but later found out that the Zetec 2.0L DOHC engine has no shrader valve.
If there's a way you can actually test the fuel pressure using the typical gauge tool: I'm all ears. I'd love to test it, JUST to make sure.

The fuel pressure regulator, I suppose, you could hook directly up to the gauge's tubing? But not the fuel rail, or anything else.
The inertia switch wasn't enabled. I pressed down on it, just out of curiosity either way. The fuel filter is perfectly clean, so is the fuel pump (mesh/tank are clean).
The relays and fuses are all good. The fuel pump primes ~2-5 seconds as it should. I am not suspecting a fuel delivery issue. I just want to measure it though.

The fuel issue (if any) is definitely clogged fuel injector(s). If not that: The spark plugs might be damaged from when I regapped them.
Or, quite possibly: The PCM is dying (doubt it), the ECU is dying (doubt it), the O2 sensor is dying (really doubt that), the ignition coil is dying (possibility).

As I'd said: AutoZone can actually test the ignition coil. I cannot make a dead-positive reading on it. I cannot read it under a load like they (AutoZone) can.
The same goes for the fuel pressure to all cylinders. I do not have an OBD-II meter of my own. I'm not sure if AutoZone lends those out either.

Oh! And to add on from above:
The battery is still good. The alternator is still good. The timing belt definitely needs to be changed (I have put ~30k miles on it myself).
The serpentine belt REALLY needs to be changed now. There aren't any mechanical errors occurring that I can feel, or know of.
The spark plugs themselves have less than 10k miles on them (NGK OEM ones bought new). I change the oil every ~10,000 miles.

The terminal connections are clean (I use vaseline to prevent corrosion.. too cheap for dialectic grease).
The terminal connections are good and tight (the positive lead I think is stripped, but is otherwise clamped on). The "little black wire" doesn't have tension on it.
The wires (as shown above) are good, as far as I know. I have no way of seeing if there's an internal crack; But I highly doubt that there is (in my mind though).

I'm almost running out of ideas as to what would cause the misfires. The "cold engine temperature" is definitely contributing to it.
The thermostat probably should be changed soon (preventative maintenance if nothing else). And/Or the coolant temperature sensor (it may be damaged).

The master head gasket (as pointed out by the cylinder compression test) is in tact. There is no coolant leaking anywhere. It builds up pressure fine again.
There is no smoke (blue/white/black/etc) from the exhaust system. The catalytic converter is still good (might be shards of it in the muffler tank, or those are acorns? Damn kids!).
There are no smells. There is no fuel leaking anywhere. I can smell a faint scent of fuel, but that may just be the coffee in the back seat, along with the coffee maker. Hehe. :)

If anyone has any ideas, again! I'm all ears. I am planning on taking a long road trip here shortly. I'd like to not break down in the middle of it.

Bert

Try cleaning the MAF to see if that helps. When you say "running funky" that's a hard one to diagnose without experiencing it.

__________________
Bert

Oblivion

I knew! Someone would notice that I didn't post that! Hahahhaa! I actually disassembled it completely and used (yes, excessively) an entire can of CRC MAF Cleaner. I figured it was a one-time-cleaning. I also cleaned out the tubing.

Here's a short checklist I'd made while talking to a drunk friend last night:
[x] EGR valve (cleaned)
[x] DPFE sensor (replaced, and rubber hose replaced)
[x] Fuel filter (replaced)
[x] Air filter (replaced)
[x] MAF sensor (cleaned)
[x] PCV valve (replaced)
[x] Terminals clean (and good connection)
[x] Cylinder compression (~195 PSI cold/dry)
[x] Throttle body plate (cleaned)
[x] IAC (cleaned)
[x] Fuel pump screen (cleaned)
[x] Fuel tank (was cleaned; No debris floating around)
[x] Brake calipers (cleaned off ALL contaminants)
[x] Front brakes (replaced with squeaky clean new ones)
[x] Antifreeze changed
[x] Brake/Clutch fluid changed (Super DOT 4)
[x] Power-steering fluid (finally) changed/filled up (MAX on cold line)
[x] Spark plugs changed and regapped (changed ~6 months ago, regapped last night to ~0.051mm)
[x] Wires tested for good resistance (~5k ohm per foot)
[x] A/C & Heater work fine (thermostat might need to be changed soon?)

And as for today! Compression check on the cylinders warm (wet and dry); I also used a canister of Sea Foam.

The data (lemme go grab my book):
5 cranks ONLY (for both tests)

WARM - FULL THROTTLE (gas pedal to the floor) - DRY
Cylinder #1: ~180 PSI
Cylinder #2: ~180 PSI
Cylinder #3: ~175 PSI
Cylinder #4: ~175 PSI

WARM - FULL THROTTLE (gas pedal to the floor) - WET (1/4th of a straw of clean, new, unused Motorcraft 5W-20 SAE oil)
Cylinder #1: ~180 PSI
Cylinder #2: ~180 PSI
Cylinder #3: ~185 PSI
Cylinder #4: ~180 PSI

By "funky" I mean unexplainable misfires that intermittently come and go with time, along with the antifreeze leaking into the cylinders recently. All evidences points to those two screws now (but does not explain what was found by the alternator).

I can only assume at this point in time, based on all other suggestive evidence, that the PCM/ECU/O2/all other sensors (except the coolant sensor temperature) are functioning properly, and it is a fuel-pressure based issue (which I am unable to test... ironically).

The reason I used SeaFoam was to really see if the misfires would quit; We'll just say they have (for today). I drove ~20 miles, and maybe had one or two that I could blatantly feel. It felt sluggish at acceleration power, and misfires when put under a load.

The only errors an OBD-II had read (I believe I posted earlier) were:
Cylinder #1: Too lean
Cylinder #4: Too rich (which I assumed before I went, due to a mildly fouled spark plug I saw)

There is no oil in the cylinders. No evidence of oil ever being there. I removed the DOHC entirely an hour ago.
It looks as clean as a whistle (as it usually is, with the residue of antifreeze anyway).

I bought Carb & Choke Cleaner today at the store (B-12 didn't have an aerosol canister). I am planning on physically removing the fuel injector(s) one by one, and attempting to clean them to the best of my abilities.
I am well aware you are supposed to change the o-rings once removed, but: I will see what happens first. I've heard that letting the soak in WD-40 makes them swell up, back to 'normal' size?

Thanks for the input again. Sorry for the long, informative post.

R.S.LOGAN

With all the things you have done , surprised you haven't done one of the most important and long overdue things on a car of that age i.e the cambelt .If the belt is worn or stretched , the timing will be out . You will be farting against thunder in trying to rectify your "running funky" engine if so . Get a kit , including the water pump when you do so .That would be something worth doing .

Oblivion

That's already crossed my mind. I looked at the belt: There are no markings, or signs of aging (no missing teeth, or wear marks). I'm assuming it isn't the original belt, and it was changed. I kind of noticed someone had opened it up (parts of the vehicle) by the fact that there are actually a few screws missing here and there (namely: One on the ignition coil pack, and air box).

The serpentine belt REALLY needs to get changed though; It's why I had posted the other thread, asking for the dimensions. I will more than likely change it when I get back.

But about leaky things: The water pump might have a damaged o-ring somewhere. That antifreeze showed up again (after a month?) on the side of the engine, by the alternator (I took a picture this time). It appears to be drooling super slowly from somewhere above (you can also see the belt.. hahaha).



Could it possibly be the crankshaft sensor position faulting out? One friend had an idea that it might be that. I never thought of it. I just assumed it was as good as the belt.

And just in case someone thinks it may be a vacuum leak somewhere: I am pretty sure there are none. There's absolutely no symptoms with the clutch system or breaks.
In fact: They both work superbly. No whistling noises or anything else of the sort.

Thanks for the idea though. I had only thought of it a few days ago.

Oh! And in regards to the fuel pressure issue idea: The fuel rail is sparkly clean. I disassembled the fuel rail, and cleaned (externally only) the fuel injectors.
They had a very, very thin film of stuff around the o-rings, and that was it. All the o-rings were perfectly good. Albeit loose (I'm not sure if they're supposed to be tight or not).
I can only assume based on how clean (seriously: SPARKLY!!) the fuel rail's insides were: The rest of the fuel lines are good and clean.
Which means the fuel pump/regulator have to be clean, and again: I assume the pressure's just as good. I wish there was a way to test it.