Originally Posted by Bert
The wires are okay but what about the coil readings? Is the car running bad?
Tower #1 (coil 1 to 4) read: 9.63Ω
Tower #2 (coil 3 to 2) read: 9.61Ω
I forgot to read the pins. I'll do that later this morning, after I go to sleep and wake up.
It should be: Pin-1 to pin-2 (power) and then pin-3 to pin-2 I believe.
But I'm starting to believe the ignition coil is good (AutoZone said they'd test it for free; But do not have the tester at the store).
I actually did a dry-cold compression check on the cylinders, and here's the data with 8-cranks (throttle body was not
Cylinder #1: 185 PSI
Cylinder #2: 185 PSI
Cylinder #3: 185 PSI
Cylinder #4: 175 PSI
Then I decided (because you're supposed to do it warm anyway) to see what the maximum PSI was (dry, cold); It took ~30 cranks (throttle body was
Cylinder #1: 200 PSI
Cylinder #2: 210 PSI
Cylinder #3: 210 PSI
Cylinder #4: 195 PSI
I will warm it up tomorrow, buy new oil, and test it warm, then try to redneck leak-down test it (with just a single air compressor gauge).
... Or maybe I'll call up AutoZone and see if they have an actual leak-down tester I could borrow.
Yes. It's running funky. When I went to AutoZone to rent the tools, I asked if they could hook up the OBD-II meter and see if it had any codes.
Cylinder #1 was running too lean. Cylinder #4 was running too rich (spark plug was mildly fouled; I told him #4 would read too rich (if anything)).
I had rented a compression tester, and fuel pressure tester, but later found out that the Zetec 2.0L DOHC engine has no shrader valve.
If there's a way you can actually test the fuel pressure using the typical gauge tool: I'm all ears. I'd love to test it, JUST to make sure.
The fuel pressure regulator, I suppose, you could hook directly up to the gauge's tubing? But not the fuel rail, or anything else.
The inertia switch wasn't enabled. I pressed down on it, just out of curiosity either way. The fuel filter is perfectly clean, so is the fuel pump (mesh/tank are clean).
The relays and fuses are all good. The fuel pump primes ~2-5 seconds as it should. I am not suspecting a fuel delivery issue. I just want to measure it though.
The fuel issue (if any) is definitely clogged fuel injector(s). If not that: The spark plugs might be damaged from when I regapped them.
Or, quite possibly: The PCM is dying (doubt it), the ECU is dying (doubt it), the O2 sensor is dying (really doubt that), the ignition coil is dying (possibility).
As I'd said: AutoZone can actually test the ignition coil. I cannot make a dead-positive reading on it. I cannot read it under a load like they (AutoZone) can.
The same goes for the fuel pressure to all cylinders. I do not have an OBD-II meter of my own. I'm not sure if AutoZone lends those out either.
Oh! And to add on from above:
The battery is still good. The alternator is still good. The timing belt definitely needs to be changed (I have put ~30k miles on it myself).
The serpentine belt REALLY needs to be changed now. There aren't any mechanical errors occurring that I can feel, or know of.
The spark plugs themselves have less than 10k miles on them (NGK OEM ones bought new). I change the oil every ~10,000 miles.
The terminal connections are clean (I use vaseline to prevent corrosion.. too cheap for dialectic grease).
The terminal connections are good and tight (the positive lead I think is stripped, but is otherwise clamped on). The "little black wire" doesn't have tension on it.
The wires (as shown above) are good, as far as I know. I have no way of seeing if there's an internal crack; But I highly doubt that there is (in my mind though).
I'm almost running out of ideas as to what would cause the misfires. The "cold engine temperature" is definitely contributing to it.
The thermostat probably should be changed soon (preventative maintenance if nothing else). And/Or the coolant temperature sensor (it may be damaged).
The master head gasket (as pointed out by the cylinder compression test) is in tact. There is no coolant leaking anywhere. It builds up pressure fine again.
There is no smoke (blue/white/black/etc) from the exhaust system. The catalytic converter is still good (might be shards of it in the muffler tank, or those are acorns? Damn kids!).
There are no smells. There is no fuel leaking anywhere. I can smell a faint scent of fuel, but that may just be the coffee in the back seat, along with the coffee maker. Hehe. :)
If anyone has any ideas, again! I'm all ears. I am planning on taking a long road trip here shortly. I'd like to not break down in the middle of it.