Join Date: Apr 2007
Re: Do you have a automatic? Please read!
This might help you , re. PCM etc . See " Aggressive shifting at wide-open-throttle "
When ordering an SCT chip from FocusSport, you first order the base SCT chip.� This is a single program chip that is programmed to your specifications.� One restriction is that a single program chip should not and will not be programmed for low octane or ultra-high (race gas) use, as much of the performance gain comes from the timing associated with the use of 91-94 octane fuel.� Another restriction is that by only selecting a single program chip, you don't get the free OEM program or the free anti-theft program. Once you've placed an order for the SCT Chip and created it's specifications to meet your needs, you should double check everything to make sure that it is accurate and what you expected it to be.
Once that's done, you can choose to buy additional programs on the chip for only $25 each, up to 3 additional programs possible.� You've got to admit, this is a hell of a deal.� You can squeak out easily under $400, and have four different programs.� That's basically $1,200 worth of chip, if you count that the base SCT is worth about $300.� Once you get into the additional programs, you can add a low octane option. As I mentioned before, there are quite a few options that come standard and don't show up on the list that FocusSport has on their website, for instance, on all programs, the top speed limiter is removed unless you ask for a specific top speed limit for the program; and that's just the tip of the iceberg, as there are hundreds of options that FocusSport can optimize that you don't see on their list (for instance, tire size or final drive gear ratio correction). I'll break down FocusSport's option list for you here:
Rear oxygen sensor disabled for race header
This option will disable the second O2 sensor on your exhaust system.� On a stock Focus, this sensor is responsible for monitoring the health of your catalytic converter.� If you are using a hollowed-out cat, an off-road pipe, race header, or anything else that eliminates or nullifies the effects of the catalytic converter, then this option is for you.� If you still have a healthy catalytic converter, but you plan on changing that soon, I also recommend this option, as it does not hurt the catalytic converter, nor does it hurt performance.� If you use this option, you will not need a so-called "O2 Sensor Emulator", "MIL Eliminator" or anything of the sort.� This option keeps the check engine light from coming on due to a problem with the second O2 Sensor.
EGR system disabled
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system will pull a fraction of the exhaust gases from your exhaust manifold and re-introduce them to the engine.� This process results in cleaner air being emitted from your exhaust system, but it also introduces air into the engine that is not only un-metered (is not measured or compensated for by the Mass Air Flow Sensor), but is also extremely hot and reduces the density of the air your engine is taking in.� Those of you who are familiar with the "DPFE Stumble" know all-too-well what happens when too much EGR is applied by the engine.� By default, the EGR System is disabled at WOT (Wide open throttle) from the factory, but Disabling the EGR System entirely, with an FS/SCT chip will make the car run smoother and batter across the entire powerband, regardless of throttle position.
Aggressive ignition timing for race gas
If you often take it to the track, and fill up there with 100 octane, then the base program (usually tuned for 91-94 octane) will not give you the timing advance you need.� It will help a little bit, but if you want to run race fuel, you should advance the timing even further to take advantage of the higher octane.� If you specify this option on one of your programs, NEVER use it unless you have completely emptied your tank and added race fuel, as it will cause detonation with even the highest-octane pump gas.
No ignition timing for low octane gas
If you place this option on a program, you can continue to use your normal low-octane fuel of choice, while enjoying other performance benefits of the FS/SCT chip.� This option lets FocusSport know that they shouldn't advance the ignition timing. Just add the other options that you want to use with low octane to this program.�
Increased fuel pressure
Useful for those who are making a lot of horsepower with factory or larger injectors, but run out of fuel, causing a lean air/fuel condition. The factory settings request about 40 psi, but up to 75 psi can be used. Forced induction, nitrous, or extreme naturally- aspirated tuning can benefit from this option by increasing the amount of fuel that can be used by the engine.� If you don't have these things, there is no real harm in adding this option, but if you run too rich needlessly you will sacrifice power, have poor gas mileage, and possibly foul your spark plugs and send your catalytic to an early grave. Keep in mind that there is a limit to each injector size and pushing the limit to the extreme is not recommended.
Custom shift light setting at wide-open throttle
In the Notes box for each program, you must specify an RPM for the shift light to come on if you chose this option.� This is the little "up arrow" on your instrument cluster.� Normally it comes on to tell you when to shift for best fuel economy.� When you're at full throttle though, FocusSport can force the light to come on at a specific engine RPM.� Since the built-in shift light is barely noticeable, it's debatable whether or not this option is all that useful, but I chose to use the option anyways.
Alternator disabled at wide-open throttle
This freaked me out when I first felt it.� Randy included it on 2 programs on my test chip and didn't tell me about it.� At the time, this option wasn't listed on the website.� It's default behavior for the Focus to cut off the A/C Pump when at WOT, and the chip doesn't change that.� However, I'd never heard of the car being able to cut off the load to the alternator before!� On a balls-out night-time test run, I noticed that my lights got dim when I really laid into the accelerator, but came back to normal when I let off.� At first I thought my accessory belt was slipping, but when I asked Randy about it on the 3rd day of my testing, he mentioned it to me, and tossed it in as a surprise to me.� You can really feel it when the alternator cuts out. This temporarily puts the car's entire electrical system in the hands of the car's battery. When the alternator is supplying power to the system, it becomes harder for the belt to turn it.� By cutting off the load to the alternator, it becomes more like an idler pulley than an accessory. There's still some friction and momentum load from the bearings and armatures inside, but it's a noticeable difference versus the mechanical and magnetic load of the energized coils.� To those who are concerned about their In-Car-Entertainment setup AND performance, you can simply place this as an option on a "strictly performance" program, and turn off all your ICE equipment to reduce the load on the battery.
Early fan activation
You can use this option to keep your engine temperatures cooler.� I'd imagine that this option would also work best with an aftermarket, cooler thermostat for your cooling system too, but it's an option in some of the programs on my test chip.� I personally don't notice any power gains from it, but to an extent, a cooler engine runs better. It should be noted, however, that cars that are running 1,000 RPMs or more at idle tend to run a bit hotter while sitting for long periods of time. The early fan activation will keep the car from over heating in such instances.
Aggressive shifting at wide-open-throttle
This option is for automatic transmissions only.� The PCM controls the shiftpoints of the transmission, and it just so happens that the FS/SCT chip can alter these shiftpoints.� The car is always thinking about fuel economy, so the factory shiftpoints are configured for gas mileage and nothing more.� If you ever hear me talk about how installing the FS/SCT chip is like brainwashing your Focus into wanting to be fast, this is the kind of thing I am talking about.� When you floor it, the FS/SCT chip will shift in such a way to stay in the optimal powerband, shifting when it's appropriate for performance, rather than fuel economy.� In addition to changing the shiftpoints, the chip also creates firmer, sportier shifts due to increased transmission fluid pressure. Obviously, with this option, shifting at part-throttle will remain at it's factory setting.
Valet Mode � 30MPH Max
Valet mode places a setting on the program limiting the top speed to 30 MPH.� Like many options on FocusSport�s online SCT order form, there are many settings that this affects aside from the top speed limiter.� You can also specify your own top speed limit for Valet Mode, if you desire.� The main point of Valet mode is to keep valet drivers or technicians from hot-rodding in your Focus.� Parents who let their children drive their Focus could set this speed limit to 65 MPH for highway use to keep them from excessive speeding.� It�s also useful if you want to mess with a friend who wants to take your car for a spin.
Custom rev limit
Specify the rev limit you want in the notes field for each program where you choose this option. Most performance chips raise the limiter to 7100 RPM.� Be careful not to make this number too high, or you could be picking up itty-bitty pieces of engine off the pavement.� Also, keep in mind that without some serious modifications, you will actually lose performance and spend less time in the optimum powerband by shifting that far up.
Again, specify the idle RPM you desire in the notes field for each program where you choose this option.� If you have aggressive cams, increasing the idle can help alleviate the shaking that the car does at idle.� If you have an underdrive pulley, increasing the idle RPM to 1100 or 1200 can help keep the accessories running at their normal idle speed.� Only one of my test chip programs has this option, and it keeps my headlights from dimming and my electro-luminescent gauge cluster from flickering at idle.