Oblivion

Hello.

I am trying to replace the rear engine mount (looks like a dog-bone).

I found this small guide, and realized soon on that it's not for the MTX-75 (manual transmission).
-

However, right after, you can see there's a 'guide within a guide' posted, here:
-

He says to use a pry-bar to wiggle the engine forward, but I'm a little confused as to what he's referring to...
There appears to be more bolts holding my rear engine mount on, than they're referring to ("The three").
Namely, there's one that you remove BELOW the mount, and one directly above it (or is what I'm feeling something else?).

Here are some pictures of mine (I removed two bolts, and that's it):
- Rear engine mount -- 2012/7/27 - Imgur

Any insight on how to properly remove, and install a new rear engine mount? Any help is appreciated...
I can't really accelerate, drive, or even start my vehicle much less, until it's resolved. Makes going to work difficult. :(

djzx3

The VF engineering torque mount is harder to install then a stock torque mount.

The stock one is much easier to remove, it just take a little muscle, un-do the two bolts holing the torque mount in place, and then push the torque mount towards the back of the car a little, and turn the smaller end towards the passenger side, and then pull it out.

If your really not able to get it out still, then take two of the side bolts off, and the plate should come off, making it much easier to get the torque mount off.

To be more specific on which bolts, In your very first pic, there are two bolts that are rather obvious to that pic. Those are the two you can take out to make things easier.


Here is a pic I found, showing what taking those two bolts out will do. You can see it makes it much easier to remove the torque mount.


BTW: That^ is dramatically different then our US MTX75 torque mount brackets.

__________________
2000 focus wagon 2.0l DOHC Zetec
04 Subaru WRX,:)



How-to directory.

Ford focus DTC codes.

Ford= First on race day.

Oblivion

I installed a new OEM part. I don't need anything fancy. The VF engineering one is designed for performance (drag racing, fast acceleration, etc), as it says on many sites.
It also vibrates a lot more ('not ideal for city driving').

That picture is showing you how to remove the torque mount from an AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. Mine is not an automatic. Mine is an MTX-75 (manual, 5-speed).
That 'gold plate' doesn't exist. Had you looked at the pictures I'd posted, you'd know. Hahaha.

I actually removed it, and successfully reinstalled the new torque mount shortly after having had made this post. Thank you either way, for at least trying to help.

I also have a picture of the torque mounts side-by-side (although you can't see nearly the amount of damage that's done to the old torque mount; There's NO rubber in it, AT all!):
- http://i.imgur.com/Dzy0i.jpg

I also made a video (it's grainy because the poor lighting). I may, or may not post it on YouTube.
I didn't get a video of me actually removing it, so, I'm debating on throwing that useless video out on the internet.

Anyway! Thanks again.

PS: I found out that the passenger side stabilizer bar was damaged (popped out of the ball-and-socket joint) after I had jacked the car up.

R.S.LOGAN

Glad to hear you got your car fixed o.k , thanks for info .
P.s
Does this " I found out that the passenger side stabilizer bar was damaged (popped out of the ball-and-socket joint) after I had jacked the car up. " refer to the front anti roll bar drop link ?

djzx3

Glad to hear you got it fixed, but auto or manual, you can still remove the three bolts to do it.

The only difference is that yours is not a metal plate.


And yes the VF engineering mount is for people who are making over 200 WHP, and it causes a hell of a lot of vibration.


Either way it's not rocket science.

It's a 10 min job, very easy.

__________________
2000 focus wagon 2.0l DOHC Zetec
04 Subaru WRX,:)



How-to directory.

Ford focus DTC codes.

Ford= First on race day.

Oblivion

Yes. These:




That isn't the only difference. The major difference is: That image is referring to a tutorial on how to remove it.
He specifically states how pointless it is to remove ALL three. You only need to remove two, and slide it out of the way; You can't do that with what I have.

That aside: After it (the entire mechanism) was removed, the engine shifted, and they wouldn't align back up.

djzx3

Hmmm, are you in the UK?

And a good brand name for the sway bar end-links is Moog.

I went to Autozone and bought their duralast brand once, and later discovered that they weren't even the same length as each-other.

IDK about other brands, but everyone always suggested Moog, so I finally gave in and payed the $30 bucks a piece to get them.

Been happy ever since.

__________________
2000 focus wagon 2.0l DOHC Zetec
04 Subaru WRX,:)



How-to directory.

Ford focus DTC codes.

Ford= First on race day.

Oblivion

Currently? No.

I've never heard of, or used "Moog."

I've never had an issue with Duralast from AutoZone yet. The stabilizer bars work fine for me.
My car has yet to roll over on me.

djzx3

Do some searching around I see you on the other two forums. The information is there about Moog.

If you've never had a problem with Duralast, then your very lucky, cause again, use that search bar, you will find plenty of case's on them.

__________________
2000 focus wagon 2.0l DOHC Zetec
04 Subaru WRX,:)



How-to directory.

Ford focus DTC codes.

Ford= First on race day.

R.S.LOGAN

I have used different makes of drop link arm from various suppliers / motor factors over the years and never had any problems . I also always used bog standard bushes and mountings unless asked by the owner .As already stated , unless you have greatly increased the power output you dont need the stiffer parts and will gain nothing by fitting them apart from vibrations etc . We are always glad to hear of any comments or improvements on any tutorials or advice given which will help others and welcome such posts .Thanks for update .