Removed the battery; All chaos breaks loose! - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars

Oblivion · 06-03-2012, 18:14

Hello.

I was checking all the fuses with a multi-meter today. None of them are bad. They all read 0 ohms.

I put them back in, reconnected the battery, and attempted to start the vehicle.
I immediately noticed the 'O/D OFF' light kick on; It's never done that before. My vehicle doesn't have O/D AFAIK.

I drive a 2001 Ford Focus ZX3. Manual transmission (5-speed).

The odometer is reading blank (--- --- --- like that). The fuel gauge doesn't work initially, but reads properly after ~10 seconds.
All internal/external electronics work. It's almost as if the vehicle no longer recognizes my only transponder key.

Any ideas/fixes? I need my vehicle for work.. Tomorrow is my only day off.

Thanks in advance.

**Bert** · 06-03-2012, 18:37

Why were you checking the fuses? Recheck all of the fuses again for being in snug and disconnect the battery again for 10 seconds, then reconnect it to see if that helps.

**djzx3** · 06-03-2012, 18:45

I agree^, after looking at my manual for my 00 Zetec, I believe you probably messed with one of the fuse's/relays.

EDIT: When you un-hooked the battery, did you just un-hook the neg side? Cause if so, there is a small, weak wire that is attached to the neg battery connector, and it runs to a wire loom on the body frame, check to see if the ground was pulled to hard, and is coming apart.

I believe there was a guy way back, that had the same problem, and I told em to check that wire, and for him, it fixed it.

Oblivion · 06-03-2012, 19:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bert

Why were you checking the fuses? Recheck all of the fuses again for being in snug and disconnect the battery again for 10 seconds, then reconnect it to see if that helps.

All the fuses are in snug like they should be. I've disconnected the battery multiple times (I do every time I mess with a fuse, just as a precaution).

Nothing helped. Although, I had swapped a relay (R8 with R7), and it worked shortly (R8 is what (in part?) starts the fuel pump). The engine ran. The odometer reads fine now, and the "O/D OFF" light never kicks on.

I was checking the fuses to make sure the passenger-side low-beam wasn't just an electrical problem. Long story short: The bulb had melted itself, and the plastic in the housing too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by djzx3

I agree^, after looking at my manual for my 00 Zetec, I believe you probably messed with one of the fuse's/relays.

EDIT: When you un-hooked the battery, did you just un-hook the neg side? Cause if so, there is a small, weak wire that is attached to the neg battery connector, and it runs to a wire loom on the body frame, check to see if the ground was pulled to hard, and is coming apart.

I believe there was a guy way back, that had the same problem, and I told em to check that wire, and for him, it fixed it.

Yes. I am going to check the wires tomorrow possibly. I cannot see in the dark. I do not have any money for a light, or anything else for that matter, for another 2 weeks.

I'm not sure where the schematics are anyhow, for the powerbox. I have downloaded the '01 Ford Focus' manual before. It shows what each fuse is for, and other useful stuff.

I always disconnect both the positive and the negative terminals. The small wire isn't disconnected.
I know what you're referring to too. That wire has a lot of tension on it, which I don't like.

**djzx3** · 06-03-2012, 19:31

Yes, the wire that has a lot of tension on it, check that one out good, because that is usually the one that causes the problems that you are describing.

Let us know if it fix's it, might want to get on it quick though, if it keeps doing this, it could reprogram the pats, if it is that wire causing the problem.

Then you would need the keys/fob to be reprogrammed.

Oblivion · 06-03-2012, 19:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by djzx3

Yes, the wire that has a lot of tension on it, check that one out good, because that is usually the one that causes the problems that you are describing.

Let us know if it fix's it, might want to get on it quick though, if it keeps doing this, it could reprogram the pats, if it is that wire causing the problem.

Then you would need the keys/fob to be reprogrammed.

No. I removed the tension and gave it some slack. Jiggled it around. Stuck the keys in the ignition, and no avail; The problem persists.

The fuel pump is still not engaging itself. I've yet to have a person physically hold the relay closed while I turn the engine over. This seems like such a simple fix, yet I am out of tools.

**djzx3** · 06-03-2012, 19:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oblivion

All the fuses are in snug like they should be. I've disconnected the battery multiple times (I do every time I mess with a fuse, just as a precaution).

Nothing helped. Although, I had swapped a relay (R8 with R7), and it worked shortly (R8 is what (in part?) starts the fuel pump). The engine ran. The odometer reads fine now, and the "O/D OFF" light never kicks on.

Wait a min, so everything is fine now that you switched R7 with R8, but now your fuel pump is not working all the time?

replace the relay that you put into the fuel position.

If you took R8 which is a system engine relay, and switched it with R7 which is the same type of relay, but for fuel, and now your fuel is the problem, well then it seems like maybe replacing R7 relay would fix your fuel problem now.

Since I dough you got a new one sitting around, take one of you headlight relays that are the same, and put it in R7, and see if that fixes the problem entirely.

Oblivion · 06-03-2012, 19:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by djzx3

Wait a min, so everything is fine now that you switched R7 with R8, but now your fuel pump is not working all the time?

replace the relay that you put into the fuel position.

If you took R8 which is a system engine relay, and switched it with R7 which is the same type of relay, but for fuel, and now your fuel is the problem, well then it seems like maybe replacing R7 relay would fix your fuel problem now.

I believe I had switched R7 with R6 shortly there-after, and the problem has continued.. Which is why I'm thinking it's the wires below.
I don't have a light, and I can't see anything in the dark. I'll work on it tomorrow.

Thanks again, for the help. I'll test the relays with the multi-meter tomorrow as well.

Oh, one odd note: If I leave the keys in the ignition (3 of 4; 1 right before the "ignite" and "turn over" starts), and reconnect the battery, you can hear the fuel pump kick on... but it's as if it doesn't "STAY" on.

**djzx3** · 06-03-2012, 19:54

Test any relays in question and get back to us.

And I want to let you know though, that our focus's from 00-01 had a fuel pump recall. I'm having some problems with my F/P on my 00 wagon, but not anything serous enough to stop me yet.

Just when taking a long right turn, it can cut the engine if tank is below 1/4th, because the pick up tube doesn't reach that side of the tank.

But the recall is for this^, and just generally crapping out on people randomly. So the F/P itself might be a problem.

but exhaust all leads before thinking its something that it going to become a project like this. Because there is two fix's, go get a tank/pump from a 03-04 focus, or go buy a new pump at Ford for almost $500 bucks.

I'm going with pull the 03-04 tank. Just doesn't seem right spending all that money, when the junkyard will usually give it for under $200.

But anyways, get back to us on those relays, we are more then happy to help.

EDIT:

From the 01 manual, that comes with the car.
R7 Fuel pump relay.
R8 is the Engine management relay.

Fuse 12 is also associated with the fuel pump, 15AMP fuse.

Oblivion · 06-04-2012, 10:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by djzx3

Test any relays in question and get back to us.

And I want to let you know though, that our focus's from 00-01 had a fuel pump recall. I'm having some problems with my F/P on my 00 wagon, but not anything serous enough to stop me yet.

Just when taking a long right turn, it can cut the engine if tank is below 1/4th, because the pick up tube doesn't reach that side of the tank.

But the recall is for this^, and just generally crapping out on people randomly. So the F/P itself might be a problem.

but exhaust all leads before thinking its something that it going to become a project like this. Because there is two fix's, go get a tank/pump from a 03-04 focus, or go buy a new pump at Ford for almost $500 bucks.

I'm going with pull the 03-04 tank. Just doesn't seem right spending all that money, when the junkyard will usually give it for under $200.

But anyways, get back to us on those relays, we are more then happy to help.

EDIT:

From the 01 manual, that comes with the car.
R7 Fuel pump relay.
R8 is the Engine management relay.

Fuse 12 is also associated with the fuel pump, 15AMP fuse.

I have a copy of the '01 manual in a PDF format. I was never given manual(s) when I purchased the vehicle. I am a secondary/severalth car owner.

There are many fuses missing, bad sparkies (changed), bad air filter (changed), bad terminal wires (not changed quite yet), bad dimmer switch (I'm assuming, by the fact the relay is GOOD, and does not click, without the hand-switch for brights), among other things...

There were two damaged relays for sure. Those have been changed out for 'good' ones, and the 'bad' ones were (poorly) repaired. They are not functional it seems, but they still click.. Which is peculiar.

The end-solution (in 2 weeks when I am paid) is to immediately buy x5 relays and swap them out, to assure that there will be no more damage done, or problems. I have had two fuses blow on me today.
A (red) 10amp fuse in the driver side low-beam, and a 25amp inside the vehicle, for something else. The relay had arced and sparked at some point last night.

The fuel filter, I am hoping, is causing another problem. If it's the fuse pump, it'll just have to wait. I know for a fact that the air filter was causing the engine to stall an AWFUL lot! It still stalls (when climbing up hills, 25% or less of fuel in the tank) sometimes at random, but if the A/C unit is on (fan speed: 1), it never stalls, ever. My thought is that because the RPMs are above idle with the A/C unit on, it'll never drop low enough for the engine to stall.

It could also very well be the TPS (throttle position sensor) causing the issue.. which would make sense. I have yet to check that. I am going to (for no other reason) change the fuel filter, under the assumption it has never been changed before. I know the air filter never was. The engine coolant wasn't either. The window wiper fluid as well, was never changed.

Thanks again, for all your help, encouragement, and support! My vehicle works once again (for now)...