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01 Ranger clutch problems.

4K views 4 replies 2 participants last post by  quixote 
#1 ·
bought my 01 XLT used with 78k mi. ran fine for about 4000. Clutch then began " sticking" to the floor. Problem would sporadically come and go. Had the master cylinder replaced, that seemed to solve the problem for a couple of hundred miles . Now I sometimes have a hard time getting it in gear, especially reverse. This problem also comes and goes. Most of the time it shifts smooth as silk. My mechanic thinks the only thing it can be is the slave cylinder. Mucho $$ so I would like to make sure it is not something much more simple before I give him the OK. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Joe
 
#2 ·
01 Ranger clutch problems.<!-- google_ad_section_end --><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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bought my 01 XLT used with 78k mi. ran fine for about 4000. Clutch then began " sticking" to the floor. Problem would sporadically come and go. Had the master cylinder replaced, that seemed to solve the problem for a couple of hundred miles . Now I sometimes have a hard time getting it in gear, especially reverse. This problem also comes and goes. Most of the time it shifts smooth as silk. My mechanic thinks the only thing it can be is the slave cylinder. Mucho $$ so I would like to make sure it is not something much more simple before I give him the OK. Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Joe<o:p></o:p>
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Hey Joe……… Favorite Jimmy Hendrix song of mine by the way………<o:p></o:p>
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To start off with the Ford ranger clutch design has been built so that it is nearly impossible to thoroughly bleed. Don’t get me wrong, it is possible, but only with a lot of effort, and bench bleeding doesn’t work reliably, and doesn’t remove all the air. A thousand people can argue with me about procedure, However only the ones who have actually experienced the frustration with this system would respect anyone attempting this repair. I have repaired too many of these, and I sympathize with those who have been there.<o:p></o:p>
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Although not in any repair manual, This is the real and true fix for bleeding the clutch is as follows:<o:p></o:p>
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Alternative Procedure 1: pressure bleed the system through the master cylinder reservoir with the clutch pedal fully depressed. This works well, but it works better when the master cylinder isn’t bolted on and not attached to the pedal and you can elevate the front portion higher than the rear portion.<o:p></o:p>
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Alternative procedure 2: Remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder on drivers side of bell housing, (it’s ok if residual fluid drains). Wrap the threads of the bleed screw with Teflon tape to seal the threads. Re-install the bleed screw loosened one full turn from tightened. Place one end of 6 foot section of 5/32” vacuum line vacuum to the external portion of the bleed screw and secure with zip tie. Secure the other end of the vacuum line to the side of the clutch master cylinder reservoir so that the end of the vacuum line is at the lowest point inside of the reservoir. Depress pedal 10 times and fill reservoir as needed being sure that the fluid level never drops below the end of the vacuum line, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the hose into the reservoir has no air bubbles. And actually the best way is to remove the master cylinder and hold it front end pointing upwards, (lines at the top ), and pumping it by hand, untill no air bubbles apear in discharge hose in res. Then all you need to do is first tighten the bleed screw and then remove the vacuum line. and top off the res.<o:p></o:p>
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If it needs a clutch which is highly probable, then I recommend only a centerforce clutch unit,as the stock units tend to drag and make it difficult to shift gears, and to surface or replace the flywheel as needed.<o:p></o:p>
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Click on this link below and it will take you to the web page:<o:p></o:p>
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http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=centerforce&Ntt=centerforce&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=1616+4294967261+10336&Nty=1&V=1616+4294967261&Vh=2001%20Ford
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When doing the clutch, on Ford Rangers, it is wise to replace a high mileage pressure plate, ( dealer item recomended ), and throw out bearing as well. And since you have already replaced the master cylinder, I would strongly recommend investing in a new slave cylinder while you have it apart.<o:p></o:p>
If you have any questions or need pictures of the procedure let me know………..<o:p></o:p>
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Best wishes……… Chongo :bandit: <o:p></o:p>
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to put off having any more work done on the clutch if I can. Did a lot of stop and start driving today ( I run a meals on wheels route for seniors) and it shifted just fine. I will pass on your suggestions for bleeding the system to my mechanic as he did say bleeding it when they replaced the master cylinder was a bear.
Does it make any sense that this problem would come and go?

Joe
 
#4 ·
Re: 01 Ranger clutch problems.<!-- google_ad_section_end --> <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
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<!-- / icon and title --><!-- message --><!-- google_ad_section_start -->Thanks for the suggestions. I am going to put off having any more work done on the clutch if I can. Did a lot of stop and start driving today ( I run a meals on wheels route for seniors) and it shifted just fine. I will pass on your suggestions for bleeding the system to my mechanic as he did say bleeding it when they replaced the master cylinder was a bear.
Does it make any sense that this problem would come and go?

Joe<o:p></o:p>

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Hey Joe………… Ford also has a problem with the plastic lines going from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder I would recommend replacing this line too, it’s not that expensive if I remember correctly.<o:p></o:p>
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Hey, good luck and best wishes………. Chongo :bandit:
 
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