Rlzegers

My wife's 1994 Ranger (3.0 V6) has been clattering when first started cold and I'm assuming a lifter has been bleeding down. It goes away after about 3 minutes and is fine until it's let sit for extended period. I've thinking about adding about 1/2 quart of ATF to the engine oil in an attempt to help clean things up and maybe solve the problem. I've read where other people have done that with some success. So my questions are:

Has anyone here done that?

If you have, how long do you run the ATF in the oil? A few minutes or a few days?

If I end up having to replace the lifter, can the lifter be replaced without removing the head? I've done it on a Ford 400m but don't know if you can get the lifter out on the 3.0.

Thank you for your help.

Ron

Bert

Have you had it very long? If the oils been changed regularly, it should be clean inside. I"ve never run anything but reular oil, so no experience with the ATF. Have you listend closely to see where the noise sems to be coming from? The lifters can be done like the one you're referring to.

Rlzegers

My wife bought it new. I've always changed oil regularly with a good quality 10-30 and I agree it should be clean inside but I'm not sure what else to do and would like to try something simple before tearing it apart. If changing a lifter is just a matter of pulling the valve cover and the offending cylinder valve hardware I'll most likely just replace the lifter. I can't imagine what else it could be ecxept maybe an exhaust leak because it stops after about 3 minutes. Not sure what else would do that.

Ron

Bert

Usually a lifter quits a lot quicker than 3 min. I would guess that your thoughts on the exhaust leak are VERY possible. The exhaust takes a while to heat up and tighten up. Look arounr the exhaust manifold ports and see if you see some blak soot. You could also get a piece of hose to listen in the end and move the other end aroun the engine.

Rlzegers

I'm sure it's a lifter after looking it over. Put a half quart of ATF in the crankcase and going to let wife drive it for a week. Has shown some improvement as the noise isn't as pronounced and doesn't last as long although it varies anywhere from 10 seconds to just over a minute. Got my fingers crossed!

Ron

Bert

Hope that does it. Keep us posted.

Rlzegers

The good news - Changed the oil and lifter problem went away, but...

The Bad news - Engine coolant going somewhere. No external signs of a leak. Had been leaking a little between the timing gear cover and engine for a while but recently coolant consumption increased so I went ahead and replaced water pump and all required gaskets including timing gear cover to engine gaskets. All looks good but coolant loss continues. I've replaced the radiator, heater core, all radiator and heater hoses, thermostat, and water pump. Expansion plugs look good. I'm thinking maybe head gasket but doesn't show symptoms like boiling coolant, muddy engine oil and the oil level doesn't rise like it's being contaminated with coolant. I'm really stumped! Any tendencies with coolant leaks with this engine I'm missing?

Any help appreciated!

Ron

Bert

There's a tester that has a blue liquid in it and if there's exhaust in the cooling system, it turns green or yellow. The tester is about $70, I think. If you have a radiator shop around, they could test it for you. Call Autozone and see if they will test it for free. You don't have steamy windows inside, do you?

__________________
Bert

Rlzegers

Like I said, I've replaced the heater core already so no steamy windows. The amount of loss is puzzling when I can't find any outward signs.

Bert

I'd see about the block check. I've also replace heater cores with new leaking ones. I now have a place that pressure tests them before I buy them. They would usually leak a lot less than what you're explaining. The 3.0 cyl. heads crack sometimes, so if it comes to removing the heads, have them checked.

__________________
Bert