I just had a new clutch, master cylinder and slave cylinder installed in my trusty old Ranger and now it won't go into reverse! The mechanic can't figure out what the problem is. He used Motomaster parts, too!
I didn't try it off, so I don't know. It is a little sticky going into first, second and third, though. If it is not releasing enough, how can it be adjusted?
There's no adjustment. Maybe there's air in the system yet. They are hard to bleed it all out. Does the pedal feel like it has about an inch of movement, then has more resistance? That's what it should feel like.
They are notorious for problems bleeding the air out of the systems! Search this forum for other posts concerning this issue, including some of my own.....
I had the same problem with my 1990 f150. I bled the clutch and the problem went away. The procedure I used was to let the system gravity bleed with the valve underneath open and me up top making sure the reservoir stayed full. I had to pump the clutch to get it started. once the fluid was completely changed, I used a two man bleeding process just like brakes. The difference between before and after was very slight but enough to get me up and running!
TODAY i put a new clutch kit and slave cylinder in my 94 2.3 ranger....i went to start it last week in 1st gear with the clutch pressed and it lunged forward. when i opened the hood i saw the reservoir was empty, i added fluid and the clutch came back. i noticed later that day fluid was leaking from the bellhousing and decided, as is common, the slave needed to be replaced. Being the truck has 230k and original clutch i decided to change the clutch and rear main seal while i had the trans out. after that was completed my mechanic said he couldn't get it to bleed and i need a master.
my mechanic is trying to convince me that there is no air in my system since he bleed it with a pressure bleeder, and i need to purchase a $60 clutch master cylinder....However, i never had any problems until my slave began to leak (as they are notorious for doing ). i cant see how that can cause the master to go out especially since when we dropped the tranny the bellhousing was full of fluid
i have heard of taking the pedal apart and pulling the cylinder out to get the air out of the master and i've also heard of working the lines near the bends to force any air bubbles trapped, especially in the line from the master to slave and the plastic slave lines.
any tips for bleeding....my mechanic wouldn't give me the time of day and i complained until he bleed it enough to get me some pedal so i could get it off his left and out of that shop...after he forced fluid from the top i got a little pedal but the catch point is just an inch from the floor and it is very difficult to get in first and reverse sometimes grinding like when i lost the pedal from the fluid draining out....
You can verify if the master cylinder is bad by carefuly pinching the flex hose and see if there could be a solid pedal. You can't push the pedal too hard due to the fact that the hose is pinched. If the pedal feels very good, it needs to be bled. They are hard to get all of the air out.
Clutch master cylinder is supposed to be bench bleed just like a brake master cylinder.
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