Just got off of a week of driving in the cold and the snow, it's in the low 40's and the snow is melting, truck ran great all week.
This morning I went to do 2 errands and got in, started up the truck, it started almost immediately as per usual but the idle was just above 1000rpm, which I took to be normal for a cold idle, released the parking brake and backed out of my spot and began to head to the freeway.
Almost immediately, the tach hit 2000rpm, the motor bogged, idle dropped to 1000rpm and kept raising, bogging before I could drop into second gear (manual transmission) and once I hit the 2000rpm, it did it again, hit 3rd gear and yes, it too would bog down, I could not get it up to highway speed as it meant no more than about maybe 40mph with it bucking and such. Pulled off onto surface streets and while it kept hitting 2Krpm in 1st and 3nd, I continued on with my 2 errands. The idle would not drop below 1000rpm the whole time, the temp gauge was at its normal position, as were all the other gauges.
Now, I know I'm low on oil, but this never happens even if I'm low (truck is going through about 2 Qts of oil about every 2 weeks and has 236,8000 or so miles on it) but the other issue is the tach, it cuts out when it's bogging down, and would come back alive when it bucks again (I know it's electronic). The truck briefly did this a year or so ago, but at about 4000rpm before it unexpectedly disappeared, the tach did the same thing then, going dead for 2 days before coming alive again and the bucking quickly dissipated I think that day on my way home from work and has not done it since, until today.
In my search, found an article, posted in March of 2009 from Tecckemn2000 where he had a similar issue with his Mazda B series truck and it was cutting idle at 3000rpm and was told the IAC and the TPS sensors may be the culprit. I'm not getting the check engine light, though the check oil light is on as it came on the other day and I will be adding oil when I get up to the store (on foot) later today.
My suspicions are perhaps it's a bit lower than 2 Qts (can't check the level until it's sat for a while) Could it be the fuel pump? Otherwise, the car starts fine and idles more or less fine though it might be idling a touch rougher than before but not much and it's hard to know for sure if it is or not.
I also noted noises from the power steering and when turned off at my first errand, no fluid in the reservoir of the power steering (it too has a slow leak) and I poured what's left of what I had in the bottle in the cab and that helped though it may be a bit low still.
Any thoughts other than what I've mentioned. I hoped it'd just reset itself upon the next start but nope, it continued to not rev above 2000rpm the whole way out and back from my errands.
Thanks, I went out and after several tries, finally got the check engine light to blink but after several tries, not sure I got it right. I only did the KOEO test, not the KOER test, should I do that also?
It went like this, 5, pause, 2, pause, 2 pause, 5, pause, 2, pause, 2 pause, 1, 1, 5, 7, 2, 1, 1, 2, 2, 1, 5, 6, 2, 1, 2, 2 before finally ending. That seems much longer than it should be even though it was reading the KOEO and CM tests. I know there was a long 6 sec pause so that probably meant it was then reading the CM.
Can you perhaps decipher what I just wrote to ensure I have the proper codes so I can look them up, what I was able to decipher didn't look to be what may be causing this. Each number was a pause. One of the codes was something about the power steering pressure switch either being closed or open (52) 25 was for the KOER test (engine running) and was for knock not sensed at dynamic test. Code 22 was MAP/BP sensor out of self test range, 11 is system pass (doubt that) and finally, 57 for KOEO, octane service adjust pin in use and for CM it's AXOD neutral pressure switch failed open.
First thing I did, when I finally got out there to do the codes was take a trip to the store for 2 Qts of oil and a bottle of power steering fluid to ensure I had plenty as what I had in the bottle yesterday may not have been enough as the power steering still felt a tad rough when I turned the wheel after adding fluid. It also still whined a good bit but not as badly as it had been.
Then in the rain, got out to the truck and checked the oil level, it was at or near the bottom of the cross hatches, meaning it was not quite 2 Qts low (truck was on level ground) and added 1.5Qts of the stuff and then started the motor to see if it'll still shunt down at 2Krpm, well, it didn't, I then gently revved it to 3K and nothing other than it just revved liked it should so apparently, something was sensing that I was low on oil and thus prevented me from revving it beyond a certain point.
So the question that begs to be asked is, why is it doing that now and not all the other times the check oil light (yes, this truck has both a check engine and a check oil light) was on when I was clearly down 2Qts or there abouts.
So I may have well solved my problem, for now but in looking at the records, I did almost 200 miles between adding oil. The last oil added was on the 13th of January, at 236,650, and today the odo read 236,842 miles so that's how fast I'm loosing oil. The oil is blackish brown (was originally changed in Sept) but not frothy or anything unusual like that, adding 5W30, which is I think what Ford rec's for this motor (4.0L Cologne V6), otherwise it's 10W30, I can never remember which.
Anyway, also added a bit more steering fluid to the power steering reservoir, just in case and while it's not as raspy as I turn, it seems a teeny bit better than yesterday.
BTW, I was able to verify the mileage on this truck as it only has a 5 digit odo as I did a CarFax report in 2009 and the last known mileage before I bought it was 126K in 2001 so my estimation of the mileage being more like 189K when I bought it in 2006 was correct, judging by the wear indicators such as the worn pedal pads, the door seal, the driver's door stops (being worn and the door sags a tad too), the driver's seat etc all told me that the car had 189K at the time.
So there you go, it should do fine now, until I need to add oil to it...
I've never seen a low oil level cause a problem like that. Hopefuly all's well.
Me neither but I DO know some Fords from the 1990's have a shut off circuit if it senses no oil at all as I've seen some guy do a cold start of a Mustang motor, I forget what size, I think a V8 from the mid 90's IIRC that was sitting outside on the ground out of a car he'd pulled from a wrecked one and he forgot to, I think put the oil cap back on or something as the motor soon ran out of oil as it ran and it simply shut down. He then added oil and was able to get it going again with no ill effects. This was on YouTube and he's a wrecker too.
Anyway, That was what came to mind with this shunting of the engine power at 2K rpm yesterday. If the truck is indeed cured, then it was simply an anomaly or something reset overnight, a sensor of some sort or the computer itself reset or something but it seems to be fine now. Odd thing was, it was dry yesterday, temps, low 40's, today, rain and low 40's. Could the weather have something to do with it or was simply reading the codes be what reset stuff?
Anyway, glad the old beast is still going, for now.
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