perryg114

I have a 95 Ranger 2.3L and lately I have this irritating problem of the starter continuing to run after I let go of the key. If I turn off the engine using the key the starter keeps cranking away. It usually does this with the truck stone cold. I replaced the starter solenoid (the one on the fender) with one from NAPA. The same problems keeps happening when it is cold. So either the new solenoid is sticking when it is cold or there is something else causing the problem. I put a volt meter on the solenoid coil and it seems that there is no voltage on the coil when the starter is still running. So am I missing something or do I just need to get a Ford Solenoid? Many times, I have found that the chinese made replacement crap is worse than the worn out part you just took off. How hard is it to make a solenoid. I mean they have not changed much is the last 100 years.

Has anyone had this problem before or have any ideas?

Perry

Bert

I've had the starter itself hang up on the flywheel and do that.

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Bert

perryg114

No I mean the starter is cranking without the motor running. Had to unhook the battery one time to get it to stop.

Perry

jwko

Could be a bad ignition switch

perryg114

Yeah I thought about that but if it where the switch the voltage to the solenoid would stay on while the starter is spinning under it's own power. The key switch is in bad shape but I don't think that is the problem.

I think I am going to get a Ford Solenoid and see if that fixes the problem. It is does not it has to be a relay up stream of the solenoid or a switch problem.

Perry

perryg114

Ok this was a temporary fix but it works for now. The solenoid was not the problem. There is some sort of mechanical linkage that is either worn out or is sticky and it acts up in cold weather. I would be surprised if there is not a recall on this because it could cause or lead to a bunch of engine related failures. So what I did was bypass the key switch by hooking a horn button between the 25 amp fuse that powers the ignition system, fuel pump etc., and the positive lead on the solenoid that is located on the fender. The 25 amp fuse is switched so there is only power when the key is on. So now the starting sequence is turn the key on and hit the button and the problem is solved. This works and gets you going. Eventually, I will try to find out what the problem really is but if it looks like it is going to be a royal pain then I will keep the horn button. This is a drive to work truck and when it gets to be more trouble that it is worth I will get rid of it.

Perry

jimbot58

I would vote for the ignition switch myself. As you said, you bypassed the switch and now it disengages? Kind of speaks for itself.

perryg114

The question is where is the switch relative to the key? Is the switch right there by the lock assembly or is it buried in some illogical hard to get to place? If it was a Chevy you would have to take the truck completely apart to get to it. I hopeing that Ford has a little more sense.

Perry

jwko

Chevy/Ford, same principal. The ignition switch is located on top of the steering column, under the dash. Its connected to the key switch by a linkage rod inside the steering column tube. Remove two bolts and let the steering column drop to access the switch, fairly easy job.

I could not find a diagram for the Ranger, but this one for a F250 will give you a general idea

perryg114

Well just to followup the problem is with the starter. For some stupid reason Ford decided to put a contactor/relay in the starter itself. The Relay/Solenoid on the fender controls the power to the internal starter relay and not the starter motor. So what happens is the solenoid on the fender trips the starter relay but the starter relay hangs closed and the starter keeps cranking. This is a stupid thing to do because of the problem I am having. You don't need a fender mounted relay if you are putting the contactor/relay in the starter. Now you have two points of failure. Either relay can Stick or weld and you are screwed.

Perry