josuperstar

Hi,

This is my first post!

I have 95 ranger v6 3.0L with a manual transmission. ...with 100k miles

Anyway, a little while back I heard a squealing noise when the clutch petal was pressed down at a stop. It sounded pretty bad. :shok: After about 6 or so times of that it went away!

Later on it started having a new problem. ;eek5; Now, it won't go into gear (sometimes) if the truck isn't moving. It seems to have more of a problem when it's cold.

I checked the clutch fluid in the reservoir and it was very low (not dirty). So, I filled it up and it seemed to help a little, but the problem came back right away.

Solutions .... I've read for about 3 hrs now on what it could be. Here is what I thought I should do:

Throw-out Bearing and Slave Cylinder may have failed

1.Try to bleed the clutch slave cylinder

2. The slave cylinder is about

3. Replace the clutch

Questions:

1. Did a seal in the slave cylinder break, which caused the throw-out bearing to go out?
(I don't know how it all works.. I need a diagram or something)

2. If I buy a new clutch, does it come with a throw-out bearing?
(my clutch seems fine but it has been 100k miles)

3. Does my solution sound right?
(I've just learned this...)


THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!! for your time and kindness!

Johnny Mullet

Ummmm........

100K, it's due for a clutch. A parts store will inform you of the throwout bearing. I would definately replace it.

The clutch reservior, master cyl, slave cyl, and tubing can be replaced as an entire sealed unit from a Dealer. I would suggest this route to save to time and money in the long run. I have tried to bleed out these systems and it can take hours and hours of frustrating failure. I am a very patient mechanic and hardly ever lose my cool. The last time I lost my cool was trying to replace a slave cylinder on a Ranger and bleed it out.

Good luck!

tomcas

Pull the bell housing access plug and take a look inside with a mirror and flashlight. Basically you are looking for fluid at the bottom of the bell housing just below the slave cylinder. Also follow the line down from the master cylinder looking for fluid around the crappy quick connects. If it's dry you may just have air in the system. Unfortunately, whenever the trapped air gets so bad that the clutch won’t disengage, and then it’s at the point where it defies the typical two person pump and bleed method. Trying this method typically only makes it worst. In this case you can try a vacuum bleeder at the slave cylinder bleeder. If this fails you could demount the master cylinder but that’s a royal pain. Many mechanics attach a device, which pressurizes the reservoir with fluid. It's a little messy but it works. A cheaper way is to fill a simple pump oilier with brake fluid and squirt it down into the hole at the bottom of the reservoir while a helper slowly releases the clutch pedal. You have to hold the oilier flex line tightly into the hole but you will feel it filling the master cylinder each time your helper releases the clutch. I found this method so effective that addition bleeding was not needed to get the clutch working although I would recommended following up with it anyway to purge the old fluid.

josuperstar

Hi Johnny Mullet and Tomcas,

I'll look for that access plug... I didn't know there was one. I bled the system the other day. That was a ton of break fluid! The clutch worked for about 6 shifts to 1st then it went back to the same problem. I'm probalby going to replace everything at once. So, I'm not hassling anything.

Thanks for your help!!!!! (o:

tomcas

It's a big ass rubber plug, look around you can't miss it.
http://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/...yl_705%20c.gif
I would not replace anything until you inspect for fluid and if it's dry try the pump oilier method I described to purge air from the master cylinder.
Contrary to the service bulletin you don't have to pull the master if you use the pump method.
http://www.lukclutch.com/display_pdf.phtml?number=LB171
Nor do you have to use the reverse pressure method
http://www.perfectionclutch.com/PDF/...l-excerpts.pdf
Besides, I'm convinced that the reverse pressure method only flushes all the dirty shit up into the seals creating further problems.
The vacuum method at the slave will work but I'm leery of pulling a vacuum on the older quick connect orings and cylinder seals, normally only seeing pressure.
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni...ittingline.jpg
http://www.frontiernet.net/~miketoni...avefitting.jpg
If you decide to go this way these tools work for the job.
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
or
Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

tomcas

http://www.perfectionclutch.com/imag...clutch-hyd.JPG

98svt

if it will go into gear fine when the truck is off,i would say in is the throw out bearing.I went with center force and the throw out bearing and slave cylinder are together.If u replace the cultch and throw out bearing make sure u replace the niddle bearing inside the trans shaft.