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Old 08-19-2003, 11:20   #1 (permalink)
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ranger with no spark

i am new to this forum but i have no were else to go. i have a 87 ranger 2.9 4x4 with no spark from the coil. i have replaced the coil, pick up coil, and the ignition module. the truck turns over but does not fire, there is no spark coming from the coil. i have been trying to figure this out for 2 days now and it is driving my nuts! anyone that has had this problem could they please share with me the cure.
thanks,bill
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Old 08-19-2003, 21:09   #2 (permalink)
 
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Lightbulb

check your distributor module. I believe this could be your problem.
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Old 08-19-2003, 23:16   #3 (permalink)
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Step 2 and on should help you out.

STEP 1

Determine if the engine is getting fuel. If injector is fueling chances are the TFI electronics are ok. If the electronics fail the fuel system shuts down except for about 20 seconds of start of cranking. If no fueling or if it quits after 20 seconds of cranking go to step 2.

STEP 2

Check for spark at one of the spark plugs. If spark is found, you may have a fuel system problem. If spark is not found, check for spark at the coil wire. If you have spark, you may have a bad rotor, cap, or wires. If you still have no spark, unplug the harness at the TFI module. With key off, there should be no voltage present at any terminals of the harness. With key in the run position there should be voltage at the "TFI POWER RUN(H4)" and the "TACH IDM (H5)" terminals. Pull the small wire off the starter solenoid so engine will not crank. Have an assistant try to crank the engine. There should be voltage at "TFI POWER RUN(H4), TFI POWER CRANK (H3), and TACH IDM (H5)" terminals. If there is not voltages present, there is a possible wiring problem. If voltages are ok, go to step 3.

STEP 3

With coil wire removed to watch for spark, place ignition key in the run position. Momentarily touch a jumper wire from "TACH IDM (H5)" terminal of the harness to a good ground. Spark should jump every time the jumper is grounded. Do not ground the jumper for more that a couple of seconds. If no spark is found, make sure that with the key in the run position there is voltage at one of the coil terminals. If voltage is present, the coil may be bad, go to step 4. If spark is found, the problem may be the TFI module or the PIP (profile ignition pickup or reluctor in the distributor) so go to step 5.

STEP 4

We should now test the coil. Use an ohm meter and probe the resistance of the two small terminals, and you should find 0.3 to 1.0 ohm. If the resistance is not ok, it may be a bad coil. If the resistance is ok, probe one small terminal and the coil wire terminal. Resistance should be 8000 to 11,500 ohms. If the resistance is not ok, replace coil. If the resistance is ok, go to step 5.

STEP 5

Testing the pickup coil (PIP) in the distributor is not an easy task, and best to test the TFI module first, then replace the pickup coil (PIP) if the TFI module tests ok. I have seen very few pickup coils on Ford TFI systems go bad. Test the TFI module according to the chart below. These values may be valid only on an OEM module, but may apply to aftermarket.

D1 to H1 12.8K
D1 to H2 17.4K
D1 to H3 1000
D1 to H4 11.5K
D1 to H5 4.2K
D1 to H6 0.0K
D2 to H1 1.2K
D2 to H2 5.8K
D2 to H3 12.6K
D2 to H4 100
D2 to H5 15.8K
D2 to H6 11.6K
D3 to H1 100
D3 to H2 4.7K
D3 to H3 13.7K
D3 to H4 1200
D3 to H5 16.9K
D3 to H6 12.7K
D1 to D2 11.5K
D1 to D3 12.6K
D2 to D3 1100
D1 to BASE 0.0K
D2 to BASE 12K
D3 to BASE 13.1K
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1992 Ford Bronco
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Full 3" stainless Bassani Exhaust
32" BFG's/stock suspension

"No replacement for displacement."

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Old 08-20-2003, 00:41   #4 (permalink)
 
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Did you pull that out of a manual? Thats pretty decent info.

And another thing 87Ranger, i hope it doesnt drive your nuts to often.
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Old 08-20-2003, 05:42   #5 (permalink)
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i did change the module on the distributor, and it is getting gas to the injectors.92BigBronco thanks for the info, i will try these steps.
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Old 08-20-2003, 09:58   #6 (permalink)
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I don't remember how I ended up with that info, but anytime I come across something as useful as that I save it! I only drive Fords and most of them have TFI systems so it's good info to keep handy.

Hope it helps you out.
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1992 Ford Bronco
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E4OD- B&M Stage 2 shift kit
Full 3" stainless Bassani Exhaust
32" BFG's/stock suspension

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"Our lugnuts require more torque than most Honda's produce!"
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Old 08-20-2003, 11:18   #7 (permalink)
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my other ford is a lot easier to work on, it does not have all the polution crap,fuel injection,ect. that other ford being a 1965 ford galaxie 500 with a 352ci.
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Old 08-26-2003, 11:07   #8 (permalink)
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i just replace the distributor. i got it going and then next day i drove it for about three miles and again it quit. could this be a computer heating up and killing the motor??
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Old 08-26-2003, 21:00   #9 (permalink)
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just a guess that maybe you have a bad connection somewhere and you are loosing your 12v power source to the coil.
keep a small multi meter handy and the next time it quits check with the key in the on position and see if you have 12v at the coil.
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Old 09-10-2003, 13:11   #10 (permalink)
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There is a sensor on the air intake tube, unplug it then plug it in again, see if it starts. If it does change the sensor.
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