Noble Lumpkin

Hi. I have a 2005 Ford Ranger 4.0 and am considering changing Spark Plugs. What kind have you Ladies and Gentlemen had good luck with. I have been looking into the NGK 7243 IXIRIDIUM plugs. Has anybody used them?

jwko

I've had good luck with Autolite Platinum plugs. Never tried IXIRIDIUM's

Milehog

You must have high milage on the Ranger if you need to change them already. I've found that sparkplugs with exotic $ounding name$ and-or claim$ usually work as well as the stockers.

Noble Lumpkin

Well I will tell you what happened. My Ranger has 50,000. I decided to change the rear differential gear lube. I could not believe how dirty it was. I then decided to change the Transfer Case fluid. (The dealer told me I would probably never have to change it). Well this fluid was so dirty it looked like Motor Oil that had been in the engine for 10,000 miles and it was not red anymore. After that I decided to not wait for the 100K miles to change the plugs. My mileage has dropped a bit and occasionally have a hesitation when starting.

360ci

Noble - your right on the mark! Ford states "up to 100K on plugs" in normal driving. Normal, in this day and age is 100% highway driving, with no idling, no towing, no heavy payloads, etc. Severe service is the only schedule to go with, even if you might think you don't need it.

You've found out that a couple quarts of transfer case (ATF) fluid, staying in the same place for 50K is a LONG time. I replace my transfer case fluid every 25K. It's only two quarts (in my transfer case), and I run full synthetic. Plugs, if not removed after 60-70K and given an inspection, along with applying more anti-seize before reinstalling, can lead to plug fouling if you leave them in there 100K or longer. The anti-seize won't last forever, and you might have to drill one of two plugs out as they can easily seize after so many years and so many miles.

If you have a limited slip axle in the rear, then you HAVE to change the fluid every 50K, even for synthetic as the clutch packs require fresh fluid. An open differential running synthetic fluid can easily last 250K before a change is required. I believe 250K is a long time to go between fluid changes, even for an open diff with no clutch packs. It's good to clean the magnet of any metal particles and visually inspect the gears at least every 50K.

Mag Hytec has some SWEET aftermarket differential and transmission covers that not only increase fluid capacity, but offer a fill, and a drain hole with a magnetic plug so you don't have to remove the cover to change the fluid (or use an extraction hose). The Mag Hytecs also include a rubber gasket, so you don't have to mess around with RTV sealant. Just something to think about for your next fluid change.

Dealers know that regular maintenance is key and can bring added sales. However, some dealers choose to say that your oil will last forever, so when your differential, transfercase, transmission or engine seizes up or falls apart, that they'll make $$$ fixing it for you. A little maintenance can go a long way!

__________________
'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
Amsoil in all vehicles!

Noble Lumpkin

360ci, THANK YOU for all the valuable information. I have replaced the Rear & Front Differential Gear lube with Amsoil. I used the Amsoil Friction Modifier in the rear because I have the LS. I figured I may as well do it right off the bat. I used Amsoil ATF in the Transfer case. I really could not believe what came out of the Transfer Case. I hope this will advise others. Do you know if resetting the computer does any good and if so, how is it done without going to the dealer Thanks for everything. NL

360ci

You can reset the service light (my GM): turn the key to ON but do not start. Press the brake pedal in three times and it should reset the light. If that doesn't work, then you might want to consult your owners manual or phone the dealer.

I run Amsoil in all my vehicles! It's great stuff and Amsoil has their own warranty. I've been a dealer for over half a decade and never had any problems, or have known anyone to have any problems (on a local basis).

__________________
'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
Amsoil in all vehicles!

jwko

You mean the accelerator pedal

Noble Lumpkin

I ended up using the NGK Iridium plugs. I used the ones listed on their site. TR5-1IX. They say to gap them at .044 but I left them at the .039-.040 that they came as. The 2005 is the only year the TR5-1IX is listed for. Can't figure that one out. Much less gap than the originals that were at .065. I have put on 250 miles under various conditions and no pings, pongs, or pokes yet. Acceleration is much better and to go from 60-90 it seemed much quicker. The idle is better too. I used the NGK plug wires too. If one wants a larger gap I guess they could use the TR55-1IX's because they come with a .058 gap. One has to be careful when they gap an Iridium plug so they say. For .004 I left them alone.

360ci

Well, 50/50 chance. My size 14's tend to press both at the same time. Gas pedal is only 1" wide lol

__________________
'00 Durango R/T 360ci 290hp (modded); 138,500m
'06 Pontiac G6 GT 3.5L 220hp; 44,000m
'12 Chrysler 200 Limited 3.6L 283hp; 13,000m
'99 Taurus 3.0L 2V Vulcan 145hp; 154,300m - Traded
Amsoil in all vehicles!