Zyetta

This 92 tempo has been in an accident. The police on the scene wern't the birghtest bulbs in the box, instead of reaching their hands inside the cabin to turn the ignition off, they desided that it would be safer if they just cut a large portion of the wiring harness under the hood.

This caused the starter to fail along with the under the glove compartment computer module thingy to fry.

After the replacement of those 2 things and the repair of the harness, the car ran well. Awaiting its new bumper and other cosmetic repairs, the car sits in the driveway for about 3 weeks..

I finally get the above mentioned parts and try to start it.. It wont start.

I test the spark, its good. I then take a test fuel pump i had in my garage-

(a basic electric fuelpump with a motorcycle battery attached to it and mounted in a wooden case. this will from here on will be known as the "Other FP")

-and hook it to the fuel filter under the hood. and the other side of the pump to a can of gas. the car starts and runs OK, but i think the Other FP that i have cant maintain the pressure the car needs to run without stalling.

When i turn the key I cant haer the fuelpump in the car's gas tank at all, i hear a click under the hood, but thats about it. I would like to be able to test the fuelpump before i buy a new one just to find out it was a relay or a messed up ground.

Also, my fuel guage is messed up too, it rests on "F" and when I turn the key, it swings around even further..

I believe this is a grounding problem, but could be a combination of things.
Before i go and blow 145$ on a FP with the sender.. I would like to know if its that or not.

At this point, I just want to get the car on the road again.
any help would be helpful. :)

PS:A list of things I've checked.
1) The inertia switch in the trunk. (Should the button be up or down?)
2) The computer module under the glove compartment.
3) most of the relays except the FP one

WrenchHead

The best way to test a fuel pump to make sure that power is getting to it is too get yourself and old car or truck horn... Yes i'm serious!

What you do is...

1) disconnect plug at fuel pump.

2) connect Horn to power via the small tab on the back of the horn using a 16 or so guage jumper wire with alligator clips.

3) there will be a threaded screw just sorta sticking outta the back of the horn that will be your ground, use another jumper wire to a good body ground.

4) last but not least turn the key on (run) and if your horn is connected correctly and there are no shorts or breaks in the fuel pump circuit... then it will honk.

depending on how loud the honk is you can judge whether or not enough power is getting to the pump...

which in most cases there is some corrosion on the ground terminal of the connecter (seen lots of em)


as for your fuel gauge it depends on what kind of sending unit was used but sounds to me like a short to ground or a but it could possible be that there is no ground at all it is just completley corroded off.


hope this helps


The Wrench