crazyeyeschase

Ok, so I'm sure y'all are tired of me ranting and raving about what is and isn't wrong with my car so I'll post all my questions here.

So I live in Kansas and its getting cold. My car has seemed to be kicking into neutral at red lights and stop signs but I think it might be my torque converter. What happens is the light turns red and I stop. When the light turns green I press the gas and nothing but revs come. after a few seconds it will kick in and go. I've been trying to pay attention to it and I dont think it goes into neutral, it feels engaged and it seems like the transmission is working, but it doesn't seem to be catching somewhere else. Could the torque converter be the problem???

A while back I posted about a possible bad head gasket leak, but I think I figured it out. I'm pretty sure its the temp sender. Last night I was in Wichita 30 mins from where I live, and on my way home the temp guage boosted up to high and I thought it was weird. I pulled over anyways. I looked under the hood their was no smoke but my radiator fluid was a tad bit low, but not enough to cause alarm. I did add some water for safe measures. Now on the way home the temp gage didn't get hot but it was jumpy. I know this is probably from the temp sender, but the fan wasn't kicking on when it got too hot so I had to hit the A/C and it's like 35 outside already, so I was freezing all the way home. Should the new temp sender help solve the fan problem or should I just hook up my own switch so I can turn it on manually????

Also I asked about the boost in a different post but does any one know where I can find or get a gauge made to fit where the equalizer sits??? I have seen a few pics of a 3 cluster gauge set sitting there and I'm sure they were all custom but I have no idea on how to do it. Does any one have an idea???

crazyeyeschase

Ok so im planning on saving sme cash and fixing alot of things in my car i have two list one is more important then the other meaning that brakes and shocks can wait lol.

the first list consists of a
full gasket set
head bolt set
exhaust manafold bolt and spring
temp sensor
thermostat
thermostat gasket
trans filter
about $150.00

please if you think i need to replace anything at all at this poing in time that i cant think of please tell me.

I am looking for a new exhaust manafold and the exhaust pipe leading to the catylac converter so when i decide to change the exhaust ill have that on already so if you know where i can get one please let me know.

the second list consists of
heater core
brakes front and rear
fuel filter
fuel pump and strainer
shocks/struts front and rear
about $300 plus what ever the front shocks will cost

I cant get the front shocks for my car here at autozone my friend works their and is going to buy the parts for me so i get a discount so if any one knows where i can find them please tell me.

So i need help finding a exhaust manafold and shocks for the front of my car also looking for a good turbo boost controler.

Also if i am missing anything important please tell me i need to get this car back to par.

crazyeyeschase

I am not including the price of fluids im going to have to replce oil,coolant, and transmition but i will also replace all of it to i just changed spark plugs but ill also prob replace them with something better.

crazyeyeschase

guess i should add the car is a 87 turbo coupe

tbird100636

For the trans. issue, is the fluid full??? Another possible issue could be the kickdown cable is misadjusted or binding, or the lever on the trans. is binding. The kickdown lever shaft goes through the shift lever shaft on the side of the trans, and sometimes the seal for the kickdown shavft lets dirt and water in, causing rust and thereby binding the kickdown shaft. So... if it's stuck in the kickdown position, it will start out in second possibly. Check the shift cable adjustment at the trans. Make sure the retaining nut isn't loose. With the shifter in OD, you loosen the nut and verify the lever on the trans is in fact in OD (rotate it into low, which is all the way counter-clockwise, then back two detents to OD) and tighten the nut.

For the coolant issue, there is more than one coolant sensor. One is for the gauge, a one wire switch, the other is for the engine controls, a two wire type, which is related to the fans working. However, I don't think you have an issue with the ECT yet. If the fans aren't coming on it could be a fan motor issue, a wiring issue, or something else. I'll explain in detail how to diagnose the fans tomorrow.

The boost gauge... why do you want an aftermarket boost gauge if you already have one next to the tach??? Unless it's an electronic cluster...

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Master ASE Certified L1 Chrysler Technician- still a Ford fan at heart.
1964 Thunderbird Hardtop- Chantily Beige- 390 FE 4V V8-Uncle's Car
1966 Thunderbird Convertible- Red- 390 FE 4V V8- Uncle's other car- waiting for paint and body work!!!
1967 Mustang Convertible- Blue- 289 V8- helping a friend re-assemble this classic

crazyeyeschase

Ok so todayi got a little money and dadd a few fluids and such before i can replace what i want. I havent realy checked the trans fluidbefore never thaught i need to but i did today whil in neut and it was plum dry so i added fluid and it hasnt messedup ill try itthi morn when it gets cold and see what happens. I also added some oil and powersteering fluid. Before i added all the fluids the temp guage went right to hot and 1 fan kicked on not both jut oe the passenger side fan.

The sensor im talking about is the coolent temp that screws into the block.

I want a new boost guage because im looking to increasing boost preasure and im wanting somethin more precise with actual sh marks between the 5 and 20 and such lol.

Please help with the fase ijust figured ide ge a pos and neg wire and hook it to the fan that isnt running and see if it would start but i dont think thats such a great idea lol.

you should be proud of me though i finaly fixed my door latch!!!

Big Block Ford

Sounds like low trans fluid is the problem.

There is a correct way to check the fluid level though. Usually it is with the engine running with trans in park and at normal operating temp.

You will need to check the level in the correct way or the reading won't be accurate even though it was low on fluid anyway.

You should also now check for transmission leaks as it may be the reason it is low.

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Lance
71 429SCJ Mustang

crazyeyeschase

I am going to be checking the trans for leakage when i get under the cr to change the filter out.