mach2race

Well it had some help, changing from cylinder 2 to cylinder #5. The shade-tree guys that worked on the car yesterday, swapped some components over from cylinder #2, to cylinders no 4 and 5. I know my dad was trying to help, but i have no idea, what was moved where. I know they changed plugs and replaced / exchanged at least 1 injector. During the 3 hour process, the mechanic stated he had fixed the miss fire in cylinder #2, but now cylinder #4 and #5 were now mis-firing. Before i started working on the car today, I had autozone check the code. indeed, no mis-fire on cylinder #2, but both cylinders 4 and 5 were mis-firing, engine was shaking itself apart. But, i have no idea, what parts the mechanic changed to fix cylinder #2. My dad did purchase (1) new injector, and (1) new plug... but its anybodies guess, what parts went where. I'm guessing he was swapping out parts on cylinder #5, just because its easy to get too. Before he started working on the car... cylinder #5 was not mis-firing. ...
So, who knows what part went where. when i got the car back, I had (1) used injector and (1) used plug laying in a bag. the car was barely running.
I told dad, thanks but next time..pass on the shade-tree.
Thanks guyz,
mach

JCribb

I am unsure of how much the individual coils cost but it sounds like coils to me. I know summit racing sells the high output coils as a set for around 250 for the 4.6 mustang. Granted this is a t-bird however it's all still the same stuff.

Then again if this is your daughters car i'm sure you don't want her to have more power...LOL

Sounds like I would go ahead and replace the coils. Seeing as plugs fixed 90% of the problem the other 10% lies in the coils

mach2race

This car has (2) power packs. One for the first four cylinders, the second power pack powers the last 4 cylinders. I could try swapping them around, to see if the problem moves.

rtg143

That's what I was referring to earlier.

mach2race

I've never heard of doing that, but i suspect i do have some carbon buildup in the intake.So, i just pull off the vaccum hose from the brake booster, and pour in 1/2 can of seafoam? How long does it need to sit, before i drive it? Is this right? I've never heard of doing this B4. Hey i really appreciate all the help you guys have sent me. I got a pm from one of you guys yesterday, uncaged scanned some sheets on checking the electrical system. Wow, that was alot of help. I tested some testing with my ohm meter yesterday on both power packs, but the pages he sent me don't show what the spec's are on these ohm readings. One power pack read identical reading for both channels, the 2nd power pack showed a slight difference in ohm's between both channels. As it turns out, this is the power pack that fires cylinder #5, which is the problem cylinder, Does anybody know, what the ohm readings should be for these power packs? It is probably listed at the begining of the electrical section on the haynes manual. I will try to pick up one of those books, this week.
Anyway, you guys rock!. I really appreciate all the help, i hope i can return the favor in the future.
Have a great day,
Mach

JCribb

If you plan on having this car for a while try to pick up a chilton's manual too. This is prob gonna get mixed reviews, but some things are better in both. My chilton was better for teardown and my haynes was good for troubleshooting. This maybe just a personal opinion, but just trying to be of help.

mach2race

Thanks, i ordered a haynes book off e-bay. I'm not a huge fan of Haynes or Chilton... but they are better than nothing. I have school 2 night, so it will be Wednesday, till I can work on the t-bird.
Thanks,
Mach

mach2race

UPDATE... guys i can't figure this one out! Today i seafomed the intake, checked service code, still mis-fire cylinder #5. Next i swapped coil pack, from left to right, reset the code and drove the car hard for about 20 minutes, then code came back on. Checked at autozone... misfire cylinder #5. Ok, so at this point, it looks like an injector. Purchased a new borg warner fuel injector. Reset code, Another 20 minutes of hard driving, service engine light. Checked again at autozone, misfire cylinder #5. Ok, maybe my plastic intake is cracked, fired up motor, sprayed carb cleaner all around base of intake on cylinder #5... no change in idle. My dad had compression checked at shade-tree last week, and compression on all 8 was good. Can the ECM cause just cylinder #5 to mis-fire, and everything else run fine? I'm thinking I may need to take my t-bird to a garage, and have a real diagnostic computer hooked up to it. I've spent $200 on good quality parts, but still I have a miss on cylinder #5. Am i "missing" something here ?

mach2race

Ok, On cylinder #5. I swapped in another plug, and plug wire, reset code. After 20min, still misfire on cylinder #5. One thing i did notice, when i removed the plug from cylinder # 5. Plug was black, like it had been powdered coated black. It was wet like it had been oiled, but the tip & electrode looked as if they had been powder coated flat black. Does this mean, no fuel or no spark? I guess today, I will have to pay to take it and have it put on a computer. I'm begining to wonder if Autozone's reader is leading me astray? The car does have a miss, but it doesn't feel like the cylinder is completely dead.Any ideas???

JCribb

autozone scanners IMO are just what they are, cheap. They do however get you in a general area. You would probably be better off taking it to the ford garage and hooking it to a big boy computer to find the issue. Last time I knew it was about a $100 bill to have this done. I would be really strict and have them tell you what's wrong and don't fix until you tell them to do so. That way they don't slide one by you and hit you up for a cool grand.....Just my opinion.

I try not to hit up stealerships for one reason...the obvious. But when all avenues of search come to a dead end sometimes it's your only hope.