Ok.. I feel like I just wasted a month rebuilding a new 3.8 for this 94 thunderbird. Everything in it is new. the motor is rock solid. The car ran great until it punched a rod thru the pan. the previous owner sold it to me that way for next to nothing. Has had TONS of work done like trans rebuild, new tires, shocks, brakes, etc.. well.. I dropped in the motor, hooked up everythign exactly as it was unhooked and now it runs like doog pooh.. timing is set dead on and valve timing is absolutly dead on..
It won't even run below 900 rpms.. just chugs.. there is almost no throttle response at all. takes some time to get it to rev much past 2000 rpms. There's a VERY strong fuel smell from exhaust. Also, the only code I get in self-test is 118.
The VREF (voltage reference signal) to the sensor may be wrong or the sensor may also have failed Check the voltage at the TPS (throttle position sensor) both with key on and key off (after 30 seconds). Check the resistance of the sensor as well and compare to specs. I suspect its more that the 118 code though given the rough idel symptoms. But perhaps if the vref voltage is low it's a sign you have a loose or wrongly connected wiring harness plug that is also interfering with the supply to other parts of the ignition system
PS Check the voltage at the light green yellow wire whle back probing it while it is still connected it should NOT be zero volts or 5 volts greater (ie between 0 and 5 is Ok). The sensor resistance should vary by temperature and voltage. Do you have a manual with the specs?
OK.. checked all that. everything seems to be in spec. Something I was thinking about when you said the Distributor might be 180 off.. Well, I rearranged the plug wires 180 degrees and it wouldn't even start. This leads me to this.. inside the distributor, The stator with the vanes on it that triggers the hall effect switch.... I have noticed that the windows are NOT evenly spaced. Does this have to be in a certian position to have the proper timing? If so, how do I know where to set it?
Yes the vanes are meant to be uneven and there will be marks on the dizzie cap and inside the dizzie to correctly align it and the rotor when the number one piston is at top dead centre.
Well, everyone says there should be marks on the dizzy for me to line up #1.. well. I can't find a single mark on either. the cap was aparently replaced at some point and there's no markings on it at all except the black vent cap. someone told me about a fine line on the side of the dizzy body and there are none. I found a scratch mark on the top of the cap that was done by someone else, so I tried it from there and still nothing. tried it both ways to see if it was 180 off.. IF any of you know of anythign very specific to look for or if you have one of these motors and can just take a look at where exactly the #1 plug wire plugs into the dizzy, that'd be great..
Also.. replaced all the plugs yesterday as well and it runs quite a bit better.. had a few wet plugs that obviously weren't firing.
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