cjhstang

I've read the horror stories...
My fiance's alternator died in her V6 cougar. Are there any special tricks to getting this buried alternator out without removing all the extras?...Y-pipe, tie rods, inner fender wall
Why couldn't they have put it right on the top?! where its nice and easy to change...
Any tips are appreciated.

cjhstang

Well looks like this forum is basically dead...except for those with questions...

anyways, figured i'd come back and answer my previous question for those that have the same problem

removal of the alternator is a real pain in the ass... i won't lie. if can be done in 2 hours if you have all the tools and your new alternator in hand.
Obviously unhook your battery. Hook your 3/8" ratchet on the tensioner and pry it back to relieve tension on the belt and remove the belt from the alternator pulley.
Ok, there are three bolts you need to remove
The first bolt is the top one. You will need to squeeze your arm between the fire wall and engine on the passenger side to find a 13mm bolt. Start with a 3/8"s drive ratchet to break it loose. Unless your ratchet has a fine ratcheting device in it you will have to pull the ratchet out after each turn, click it once, then put it back on the bolt. after doing this two or three times, take a 1/4" drive ratchet and remove the bolt the rest of the way. There is one bundle of wires that may be in your way, unbolt there mount from the engine (10mm) and it will give you enough play to get your hand in there.
The second bolt is accessed from under the car. Remove the passenger tire, fender splash shield, and tie rod. You will have to apply the same concept as above on this bolt, you will need to reach across the driveshaft with one hand and guide the ratchet on the other side with your other hand. This is also a 13mm bolt.
The final bolt is 10mm and you prolly already saw it directly in front of you under the car. unbolt this bolt from the alternator, again applying the same concept as above. start with a 3/8" ratchet to break it loose, then move onto a 1/4" drive ratchet.
Once you have the bolts out you may need to pry on the alternator a little to remove it from its bracket. Once its free then worry about unhooking the wires.
A good set of wobble extensions in both 3/8" and 1/4" will ease the process. You won't need long extensions, maybe a one inch for both sizes.
Unlike other write ups, there is no need to remove the exhaust Y-pipe, or the alternator mounting bracket. Only removing the tire, tie rod, splash gaurds, and your 3 alternator bolts. Your knuckles will hate you for a while afterwards...

Oh and make sure you put a good alternator in there, I'm sure you don't wanna do this again.
Hope this helps.

jwko

Thank You for posting this info.

steven.smith22

To help further,
Go buy sears 10mm and 13mm swivle sockets. The upper bolt can be got with ease if you remove the coil pack and the two electrical harness hold down screws. The sockets with two extentions I bought the ones that lock the socket on from sears make it a breeze. A fine ratchet helps but the sockets help way more The lower one can be stubborn an WD-40 Helps. Also you can fit the extentions behind the exhaust by silding them in from the passengers side to meet the rachet. Its tricky but it will remove the stubborn lower bolt. The other trick is when reinstalling alternator to grind the lower bolt holes face toward wheel so that it will swing into hole easily. Install top bolt from above and do not forget to make a jumper from the big red lead to the smaller red lead to do the ford mod.

SteveTatts

Hi I'm new on here & seen your Q, can I ask you what alternator you fitted as i had blown 3 now. been told there is a high output one to be had with a pigyback fuse on the side. car ia a cougar 2.5i .