BB-GT

Seems everyone in the know says the Dyno should be run in the Dyno Dynamics Shootout mode 8. How do you know if this is whats being done? Is there a way to make sure your not being spun crap?

Racer

Dynos don't measure real RWHP, and even if they did, they can be fiddled in several ways.
One way and the most obvious is air temperature correction. If AT and IT on the printout show a large variance, you get an inflated corrected number. How many times have you seen the IT sensor fitted to the intake during a run, and not just left hooked up on the wall??? Not often i bet.

Dynos are great for mapping, but thats about all. The drag strip is the best way to determine HP

OED666

well i am going to put my car on a dyno one day soon, but i reckon i would be lucky to be pushing 115-RWKW, yet i am running a 15.153 qtr pass at 147km/h

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BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!

Fordy

As some of the members on the forum have demonstrated.

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BB-GT

Taking it to the strip may be the best way for some, but unless you know how to drive well the time could be all over the place, to many unknows on the strip! My GT is a May 2004 model and has only 2200klm on it. I would like to get it Dynoed soon to see if I got a good one and ran it in correctly. Then with a base figure the mods will start, just want to make sure it gets dynoed right to start with!

Happy with just street light drags for now!

OED666

which city are you in, i am always keen!!!

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BUILT FORD TOUGH!!!

shaynet

Yes, you should have it dynoed in Shootout Mode and the car should be tied down firmly to get a correct comparitive reading (comparitive to other members results on Dyno Dynamic dynos')

The people from Dyno Dynamics told me the car must be tied down as this is the industry standard they have developed for Shootout Mode and any operator who does not do this is giving you a high reading. They told me any operator who does not tie the car down risks losing their Shootout accreditation as DD have worked hard to establish credibility by continually testing operators dynos and maintain there should not be more than 1-2rwkw difference between one machine and another accross the country

Personally, my car made 27rwkw more on a DD when not tied down. Although your car is not "tied down" when on the road and would not be experiencing the sort of drag that tieing down must create, that is how DD say they want it done. It makes me wonder what point there is to it when you see cars (that even though they are tied down) that have enough torque to climb up the front roller and then get an advantage of less friction by not being in contact with the rear roller. This happens usually with turboed and supercharged cars even though when tied down so tight the springs are compressed in the suspension.

Anyway, get it dynoed for a base figure and get it done after each mod to measure the change and make sure you are going up & not down. Also ask them to print your fuel mixture readings and tractive effort and compare this with subsequent runs.

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