Hi, i have a JBL GTO 2000 400w amplifier powering a subwoofer in the back of my car, it worked fine in my other car, now i have it transferred over to my new one, it does not switch on. I know the problems lies in the remote switch wire at the back of the head unit because i have tested the amp in the back by sticking a piece of wire between the 12v input screw and the remote input screw to bridge power between them and it works fine, but if i have my remote wire connected it does not turn on, i have tried other cable aswell by running some from the front to the back of the car. Now all i can assume at this point if there is some incorrect wiring at the back of the head unit!? (Pioneer DEH - 1630R) can someone desribe of one better draw me a pic of where the remote wire leads from out the back of the head unit and how to connect the amp remote wire to the head unit, it would be greatly appreciated. If it turns out there is no way of getting it to work, would it be possible to tap into the permanent 12v line and have an inline switch in the car, to turn the amp on/off???
you can do as you have said and put it on a switch but try connecting it to the 12v ignition so it only powers up when the car is switched on which i presume is the time you want to listen to it. but if all else fails call a car audio shop for some advice
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Well i was thinking of wiring top the 12v ignition only prob with that is the car has to be on i.e engine on?, There is no inline switch on the remote wire, the head unit is working perfectly as normal, having no problems with that. To counter the problem, i was going to run a wire from the constant 12v supply going to the head unit, put a switch inline and wire it to the remote switch screw on the amplifier, if i understand amps correctly... they require a pulse of electricity to activate the amp and turn it on, so if i was to trigger the switch to 'on' there would be power running to it, then switching the switch off would still keep the amp running, then the same procedure to switch the amp off, because how i see it, the head unit is sending a 12v pulse to the remote terminal on the amp, which switches it on, after that there is no current because it doesnt need it??? please correct me if im wrong, or advise me on another way around it, but this way seems to be the most clever one ive come up with!, i have got a pic that i drew of the head unit connections and where the remote wire runs, i hope from this you can understand my connections, and if i have done them correctly![IMG]I:\Documents and Settings\Kevin\My Documents\My Pictures[/IMG]
...if i understand amps correctly... they require a pulse of electricity to activate the amp and turn it on...
No, there is a constant current (only 0.5 amps)
From what I understand, the amp switches on OK when you supply it with a 12V source from any means (ie Accessory power, constant power whatever) but not when you supply it with power from the Remote wire, is that correct.
I wasn't asking if there was a switch on the Remote wire, is there a fuse on the remote wire.
Do a little test, turn on the head unit, attach a 12V bulb to the remote wire and ground it.....does the light come on? (Unless you've got a multimeter of course)
You don't really drive a holden, more like sit in it while the wheels slowly go around
From what I understand, the amp switches on OK when you supply it with a 12V source from any means (ie Accessory power, constant power whatever) 'but not when you supply it with power from the Remote wire, is that correct' im not sure what you mean there???
Sorry i meant there is no fuse on the remote wire, your saying that the amp needs around 500ma of power through the remote wire, right, so why couldnt i take a feed off the head unit live and stick a switch inline on the cable, then have it on when i want the amp on, and have it off when i dont?
Thats just a way around it, i would really like to get the remote wire working, so im going to buy a multimeter and test it. but will that idea work?
Any constant 12 Volt source will suffice to get the amplifier running. An inline switch to allow you the control will also do the trick. But I think that is a bit of a pain.
As has been said, test the 'remote' wire coming from the headunit to make sure when the h/u turns on it has at least 12volt there, and obviously 0 volts when off.
CAn't remember if this was clarified, but it isn't a pulse to turn the amp on, it has to be a constant voltage applied for it to be on.
Solved the problem at the moment with a dash mounted switch, there was no power going down the remote wire, as i tested a bulb and it didnt light up, took the perm 12v and run a switch in, the only problem is remembering to turn it off! if i dont turn it off and forget for instance, the amp would be on standby coz no sound is coming out, its 400w so would this drain the battery or would it be ok?
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