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Do i need a CAP ???

4K views 29 replies 4 participants last post by  krush40 
#1 ·
Hey guys,

At the moment i have the following system, Im after peoples opinions on what i should do



Kenwood Mp3 50 x 4 H/U

Clarion SRS1725 Splits with In-Line –6dB/oct Crossover Network

Response 150WRMS x 2 (Bridged to 400WRMS x 1) powering Sub

Sony Xplod XM222MK2 (35WRMS x 2) Powering the Splits only

Kenwood 12 in Component Sub (200WRMS)

I have 4G power cable running from the battery to a Distribution block then run 8G cables to each of the amps


Would my system benifit from a 1 farad Cap, I also want to install a Digital Voltage/Current Terminal block just to see what the voltages and amps are like

With my splits is there any benefit from installing a seperate adjustable crossover or isnt it worth it

On the sony amp there is no adjustments to the gain just a level adjustment, on the response amp i have all adjustments set to about 3/4 of the max settings give or take a little .

i have had the woofers in the splits starting to distort/Clip a little so have adjusted the level down a bit

I listen to alot of Dance, Electronica etc etc (The faster paced music) just so you know

Ps, I have also posted this on FF.com.au

Thanks,

Ash
 
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#2 ·
redGhia said:
Response 150WRMS x 2 (Bridged to 400WRMS x 1)
You sure about that???

redGhia said:
Would my system benifit from a 1 farad Cap
Not really, not with those amps.

redGhia said:
With my splits is there any benefit from installing a seperate adjustable crossover or isnt it worth it
Yes. What you are doing at the moment is amplifing the whole signal, and then removing some of it (the bass). If you put a crossover before the amps, you will only be amplifing the signal that you want. (i.e. - more for less)

Panda
 
#3 ·
The old range of jaycar amps (not jaycar Responce) were rated at 400WRMS, What do you think they should be

I have decided aginst the cap after reserarcing it a bit more


Could you give me any advice on what crossovers i need, At the moment i am getting the feed for them from the high level input on the rear factory parcel shelf speakers, I know this isnt really desirable
 
#4 ·
Sorry i was wrong with the power rating of the amp, It is rated at 450WRMS X 1 when bridged into 4 Ohms with a THD of <0.08 @ 1 Khz

Max current draw is 56A, Why do u think that i am only drawing approx 20A from this amp and approx 12 fromn the baby sony unit


Sorry again

Ash
 
#6 ·
The headunit has only 1 lot of rca pre outs - What should i do (apart from buying a new HU
 
#8 ·
the splitter wont fit in the space provided at the rear of the H/U so the only option would to be fitting it at the amp end and maybe redoing all the cabaling there, If i do buy a splitter isnt that going to half my voltage etc
 
#9 ·
you have to remember amplifiers are designed to work in a range of input voltages. yes it may (and i say may) slightly reduce your output, but it probably only means you will have to turn up the gain on the amp. to be honest i doubt it will have that much impact at all.
Just rewire it as you said and it should be perfect.

Paul
 
#10 ·
so running the splits off the preouts will be a great improvement over running them from high level inputs , I thought so LOL
 
#11 ·
Your Sony amp (Xplod XM222MK2 ) does have a LP filter but that is no good because you have it feeding the splits (LPF only allows bass through)

I can't find any more details on your Jaycar amplifier which is feeding the sub (more info would help)

So, given what I know about what you currently have
- run the head unit speaker output to the rear speakers (set fader to full rear)
- run RCA to Active Crossover Network
- run front output from Crossover to Sony Xplod Amp powering the Splits only
- run sub output from Crossover to Response Amp powering Sub only

Most good Active Crossover Networks have a single RCA input. What it then does is removes the bass from the signal which is going to the splits, and removes the highs from the signal which is going to the sub. The amplifier is only amplifing the signal it is fed, instead of amplifing the full signal and then having some of that removed with the passive crossovers, although they do still have to be used for the tweeters.

Another option is to buy an equaliser instead of a crossover - same result, but more controls. (It would have to have dual RCA outputs though)

Panda
 
#13 · (Edited)
Thanks for all this info, it is greatly appreciated

Panda, specs are on the website below

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productVi...d2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=


who sells good quality active crossovers , I have googled them but all i get is info, i will have to go into the shop and have alook i think


What do you think i should do with the sony amp, will it power the splits well with the lpf switched off like it is now,Also some of the active crossovers are rated at 12db etc _ what does this rating mean and what should i be looking for
 
#14 ·
Yeah, good power from that amp, not great quality though.

Here's some copy and pasted info about Crossovers
...a crossover is a device that separates the audio spectrum into different ranges and sends them to specific drivers. ...bass information to the woofer...midrange information to the midrange...treble to the tweeter...A two-way crossover separates the audio spectrum into two portions and sends the information to two different types of drivers. A three-way crossover separates the audio spectrum into three portions, and so on.

Terms often used to describe the slope of a crossover include 6dB/octave, 12dB/octave, 18dB/octave, or 24dB/octave. The crossover slope that these terms refer to is just as you would imagine. With a change of one octave, a 6dB/octave crossover will have an output that is 6 dB down from the beginning point; 12 dB/octave will have an output that is 12 dB down.


What it means is that the higher the dB/octave number, the less of the undesired signal gets to the speakers. Bigger number is better quality

There is no issue running the Sony amp as it is with the LPF turned off.

Panda
 
#15 ·
ok, That makes it soo much clearer now i have at least a starting point to research on

I know the amp isnt the best quality out, but at the time i didnt know any better and was just going off the RMS ratina and the THD Now that ive got it i will have to stick with it for a while longer (what would you reccomend)

So back to the crossovers , would i be best off with a 3 way crossover if i set it up as you posetd above
 
#16 ·
redGhia said:
I know the amp isnt the best quality out, but at the time i didnt know any better and was just going off the RMS rating and the THD Now that ive got it i will have to stick with it for a while longer (what would you reccomend)
Never throw away a working amp.

2-Way crossover is all you need. One sub-woofer output and one mid/tweeter output.

Panda
 
#17 ·
sorry to sound stupid (again ) when i install the active crossover i need to remove the passive crossover dont i.
 
#19 ·
Hi Panda

I am amazed at the lengths that you are going to to help me out, it is greatly appreciated, My only problem now is ACTUALLy finding somewhere that sells active crossovers or even a equilizer - Be it digital or analouge

Everyone so far has just tried to sell me a new HU, Ranging from a $430 Kenwood KDC 6029 to an Eclipse CD8454 priced at $799

Both these H/U have inbuilt digital crossovers and sub control etc etc

Kenwood H/U ---- http://www.kenwoodaudio.com/australia/prodDetails.asp?subcat=HEAD UNITS&cat=Car Entertainment&model=KDC-MP6029&zone=AU


Eclipse ---- http://www.eclipse-web.com/

looking through the website i now see that eclipse (MMMM) do some equilizers - But if i do that i may as well get the new H/U
 
#20 ·
#22 · (Edited)
Ok, Scrap that idea

Just picked up a Clarion EQ5750 7 band Equilizer/Crossover brand new for $100, Got myself some new stinger rca leads as well for a good price

I think i may mount the eq just under the ashtray which i never use anyway and run the leads etc from there

Now all i need to do is learn how to set up all the variables
 
#23 ·
Sorry just another question , I will rub the rca's from the H/U to the EQ and then rca's to the jaycar and sony amp, The EQ also has line livel outputs, Should i use this for the rear parcel shelf speakes or just fade it from the H/U to "fill" the space
 
#24 ·
On the back of the EQ there is "Main In" , Aux In, then you have outputs for the sub , front and rear speakers as well. There is also gain adjustments for LP Filter, & HP Filter am i correct that the LP filter only removes bass tones from the front & rear rca connections and the HP Filter removes it from the sub rca output ( i think you have confirmed this for me before)

I suppose to start with its best to leave the HP / LP filters in the centre and adjust them as i fine tune the system
 
#25 ·
redGhia said:
...Just picked up a Clarion EQ5750 7 band Equilizer...
Couldn't find it on the website, but it should certainly do the job.

redGhia said:
...all i need to do is learn how to set up all the variables...
Yes, different for every song. One thing to remember is that now the EQ will do all of the tweaking, not the head unit. Set your headunit to full rear fading, and turn all other variables to neutral (bass boost off, balance = 0, loud off etc)

redGhia said:
...On the back of the EQ there is "Main In" , Aux In, then you have outputs for the sub , front and rear speakers as well...
Because I couldn't find it on the website, I can't be sure of the connections. From your description, you should run the RCA's from the head unit to the 'Main In' plugs on the EQ. You would run RCA's from the 'Sub Output' on the EQ to the Jaycar amp. You would run RCA's from the 'Front Output' on the EQ to the Sony Amp. You would run speaker wire from the 'rear line level outputs' to the rear parcel shelf speakers.

redGhia said:
...There is also gain adjustments for LP Filter, & HP Filter am i correct that the LP filter only removes bass tones from the front & rear rca connections and the HP Filter removes it from the sub rca output...
LPF = Low Pass Filter. That means it lets the low tones pass through (for the sub) set it to about 100Hz
HPF = High Pass Filter. That means it lets the high tones pass through (for the splits) set it to about 200Hz

Panda
 
#26 ·
Morning, Thanks for that it sound help me out,

On the back there is also switches for "Subwoofer Output" (Mono or Stereo) and a "Filter switch (On or Off)

At the moment i have left it set to mono and on

I have got pics to show you the front and back of the unit but havin trouble with them so will post later
 
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