I have a pretty new reconed altanator and new battery, and it seems my stezza is starting to stuff up my altanator coz it seems like it makes the belt real loose all the time and the voltmeter rises slowly now when i start up. Starting to get pissed off with it coz i cant seem to drive at night with ma lights on and the stezza on
Is there any way around this prob apart from buying a bigger alt?
Unless your using dry cell batteries, or your putting both batteries in the engine bay, relocating batteries is Illegal and warrants a defect notice...
Are the belts V belt, or do they have three ridges in them? The belts shouldn't keep splipping like that. If it's a V belt, then you might be better off changing the Harmonic balancer and Alternator pulleys to the three ridge design...
Rymers is that right about relocating batteries?
didnt know that one...I was going to move mine to the boot in the next few weeks.
91_Ea, start with basics,
Check voltage between engine block and battery negative, engine running with headlights, high beams and rear demister on,
Get someone to hold it at around 1500 rpm
If its over .5 volts, run a new earth lead from the block to the battery, and from the battery to the body.
Next, do the same with the + lead from the alternator and + of the battery,
If there is around 0.5v present, run a new wire, with a fusible link from teh alt + terminal direct to the battery + terminal.
Voltage loss in the cables will cause the alternator regulator to "overshoot" trying to keep the voltage constant.
Check the voltage between the alternator + terminal and engine block, then compare this with the voltage across the battery. (do this with the engine running, lights etc on as above) You should have around 13.8 - 14.8 volts at around 1500 rpm.
What cable have you got running to the amp?
This may solve the problem, other than that, try a 1 farad capacitor right near the amp.
[edit: another thing, the power steering pump isnt leaking is it, this can also cause problems with the alternator - learnt that one the hard way, recon alternator went through a set of brushes and destroyed the commutator in around a month]
Rymers is that right about relocating batteries?
didnt know that one...I was going to move mine to the boot in the next few weeks.
Yep, I just found out that one myself. Lead acid batteries are not allowed to be exposed to the cabin due to the fumes they produce, that's why dry cells are allowed as they don't contain acid... IMO the drycells are excellent value for money, and is well worth the extra $$$ for both the convenience of installing (they can be relocated and mounted upside if you want), and also the extra power and life they boast...
Thanx for all the feed back guys, it only seems to put the volts down to bout 12 when i got it in drive while idling eg at the lights i have to turn it down or else i get the belt squeelin. Have tightened the belt up soooo many times, ill get back to ya''ll when i have done some more test's...
I have hella fat wire for my + and my - I Thought ya could but hella bigger systems in as mine is not relly that big
Im not sure how many amps the stock EA alternator is but my XF stock alternator is only 50 amps....50amps is not a lot when a huge stereo is running...bosch make 80amp + alternators to suit many cars...that might be the go for you..check to see how much your current alternator is rated it..its usually written on it somewhere..
Extreme
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