Amp bridged at 380watts rms into a 400watts rms sub, I thought this would leave the amp a little short and cause it to run a little hot when subjected to peak loads, or I have I got it wrong people, been a while since i bought any amps and subs.
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I did put something here, but it vanshied, I think
1 other thing i wanted to ask...with the sub being able to handle 400W MAX...would it be ok running 380W into it? would it put the sub at any kind of risk of breaking etc?
It's best to have an amp that atleast matches, or preferebly, has a higher RMS output to the sub's max RMS output. For example, a 400w RMS rated sub will need a amp that has a output of 400w RMS, or more (450w RMS at least) is preferred. The subby will still work "ok" with a little less, but as stated, will heat up quicker among a few other negatives.
Those two, that's the amp and subby will be sucking some major juice from your charging system when cranked, even at half volume. I wonder if the Telstars standard electrics can handle this?
shit...didnt think about anything like that....just because i dont know anything about car audio etc...
so how the hell would i have any kind of system in my car....ie, do i have to have a weak ass system, or something else can be done...
also, you say that its better to have the amp with more power than the subs max RMS....doesnt that mean theres too much power and the sub cant handle it?
considering your advice augzmk, i think its safe to say im open to suggestions on a sub/amp combo if this 1 wont work
also, you say that its better to have the amp with more power than the subs max RMS....doesnt that mean theres too much power and the sub cant handle it?
In general as long as you dont drive your drivers into distortion then u can safely use an amp which exceeds the power rating of the speaker although ive heard tweeters will crap themselves pretty quickly if run too much in excess of their power rating
For 2 years i have been using a alpine mrv-1507 amp to power two jl audio 12 inch subs rated at 125w rms each and have been feeding them 900w rms each into a 2 ohm load without any problems
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1991 Peugeot 405 Mi16 with 160Hp Stock
You might need to look at getting a small capicitor? That way, you won't keep getting flat batteries...
Would he need it guys? And as for me, i'll be running probably that amp, and another 2 channel amp. Would I need a small capicitor, or can the AU alternator be enough to cope?
__________________ AUIII Falcon Forte - 4.0L I6, Silver Star!
Capacitors will allow you to achieve better bass if you are running subs/amps which are thirsty on current and you notice things such as head lights/interior lights dimming whilst a big bass note is getting pumped out by the subs,
they are wired in serial with your amp power wire and store power when the sub is not punching out a big note and then supplement the power going to the amp if it is struggling to get sufficient current during a big bass note
you should choose at least a .5 farad capacitor per 500 watts RMS of power output
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1991 Peugeot 405 Mi16 with 160Hp Stock
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R33 GTS-T Nissan Skyline 
Tuned properly, it's the best way to go.
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