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Subwoofers

3K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  zeus 
#1 ·
What do you guys recommend for subs? I have limited space because of a gas tank in the boot. I was thinking of two 10". would this be better than one 12"?? Also, if i am just running two subs (10s) two 6x9s, would one 4 channel amp be okay? Ive been told the door speakers should be fine to run off the head unit.How much should I be paying for a 4-channel amp and two subs, preferably pioneer? And finally, is pioneer a good brand to go for, cause im pretty happy with there products. Thanks
 
#2 ·
ok, get decent front speakers, run them from the amp 6x9's arnt worth it, sub does the bass now.
i got a single 12, some decent fronts, and i can't hear the rears, i'm very happy with how it sounds, so i'd go that way.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Pioneer are a good brand for there price bracket, and I'm sure you wont be dissapointed with the performance of there amps. If space is an issue, then 1 x 12 would be the way to go, but 2 x 10 will give you 1 and a half times the surface area and therefore will be louder, and will produce tighter bass, but remember, that doesn't mean it'll be 1 and a half times louder....

As EFFalcon said, I recommend you get a nice pair of fronts instead of 6 x 9's, as they are useless if you put subs in, not to mention it'll sound waaaay nicer with the fronts instead. I recommend you buy a four channel amp, bridge two of the channels to power a single 12 and the other two channels powering the fronts... Or, if you have your heart set on 2 x 10's, buy a seperate 2 channel amp to power your fronts, and a four channel to power the subs, bridging two channels per sub...
 
#5 ·
Subs

A 10" would do the job fine prviding you box it right, and it also depends on wheater you want a ported box, seales enclosure or a free to air, but if you get a good box custom made a 10" will be enough to kick out hard. just make sure you use a goood quality sublike a pioneer or an alpine,
 
#7 ·
Out of Alpine, pioneer and JL, Alpine would be the best to get, followed by JL which don't look as pretty, but are still very good value for money, and lastly pioneer, which I believe aren't the most crashot subs and aren't as good value for money as the first two... Remember that car audio does not end at JB HI FI, visit a dedicated car audio specialist and see what other brands of subs are out there, they won't "push" products onto you and will give you very good advice....
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the replys. The reason i wanted to go for two 10" subs, is because i have an LPG tank. This way, i could put a sub on each side of the boot, without loosing much space. Otherwise, i may take out my gas LPG tank and just get one 12". You guys have any other ideas as to where to put subs without taking out the LPG tank?

By the way, Its an EBII GLi.
 
#10 ·
How many you got in there Rmyers? Wheres you spare tyre? You got a fibreglass cover for it, and what sort of box would it need then? Thanks heaps
 
#11 ·
I've got one 15 in there. I ditched the spare tire and fibreglassed the inside of the tire well to strengthen it. I then liquid nailed an MDF baffle to it making sure the enclosure was aightight from the inside, then I screwed the sub to the MDF. Works a treat, but it's kinda permanent :/
 
#12 ·
Or if you're worried about space, get a 12" sub into the parcel shelf along with 6x9's in the back. bass should pack out of that and you wont have used any space in the boot. That is all.
 
#15 ·
Are you going for SPL or SQ?

Poineer are more SPL related and the JL and Alpine are better for SQ.

2 x 10" is the way to go when your on gas, but there is no reason you couldn't try to fit 2 x 12" on either side of the boot. Don't ditch the gas for a sub, that is the worst move you could make. And don't ditch the spare tyre either, you'll find that you will get more flat tyres because you though you'd get away without a spare.

get some nice splits for upfront, 6" for the parcel shelf, and 2 x 10"s for the boot. Run the front's off the HU, get a seperate amp for your rears, and run the subs off a 4 channel amp.

IMO, if you want Pioneer, go the TS-W255C subwoofer and choose a different brand for the amp, as Pioneer have just done a major recall on most of their amps.

Also... What HU are you running?
 
#16 · (Edited)
I've been playing around with system options for my next car an the following setup is one that i found sounded the best (NB: this was on a display board)
and was worht the money its going to set me back.

Pioneer DEH 4550 HU
Pioneer TS-C160R PRO Splits
Alpine MRV-T320 2x80 WRMS pwring Splits
Pioneer TS-A1680S 6" rears off HU
2x Pioneer TS-W305C 12" Boxed Subs
Alpine MRV-T420 2x110WRMS pwring Subs

Lucky for me ive already got the HU and if i really want to amp the rears, ive already got a V-power 50WRMS amp to do it, but like most people have said, with ampd splits and subs, i prbably dont need to amp them.
 
#18 ·
6x9's can be used for rear fill. You just need a half decent HU with seperate sub control. Fade out the rear slightly or take turn the bass down. With mine you can basically do all of that and I use 6x9's for rear fill. I would prefer 6" though.
 
#19 ·
For a decent souding system, all u need is a good set of splits up the front, some half decent 6 inch in the back tray and a single 12inch (GOOD) sub in the boot. If you want loud bass you need power, and power means more money, dry cell bat, capcitor, etc. Just make shure u get a good amp. Dont get no bog amp, alpine have a good range but are expensive. have a look around for audiosion or even cadence amps are making a huge stand on the market today. gluck mate just choose carefully so you dont need to choose again oneday
 
#20 ·
I have an EF on LPG. Gas tank in the boot takes up a fair ammount of space... but I managed to fit 2x 12" subs in a rather largeish box, along with a 2nd battery, 1farad cap and a PC to play mp3s :p

my subs are Eclipse 87121.4s - $315ea.
I have used Eclipse SP8962s ($170 pr) in factory door (front) and parcel shelf positions.

The main idea here is to keep it looking as stock as possable so a potential thief wont suspect that there is anything there. I've even used the factory supplied 'Pioneer' speaker covers for the rear shelf :)

for Amps, ive got a JL 500/1 500W RMS mono amp for the subs.
Ive got a Cheap-o 4x50W RMS Boshman amp to run the door+shelf speakers.
JL amp was about $1k
Boschman amp was about $300

Amps and 1F cap is mounted on the back of the sub box. Subs fire forwards/upwards at about a 35 degree angle from horiz.

I did have a set of Kicker k60s in the rear at one stage. Kicker k60s are krap. No high frequency clarity. Sounds quality from the Eclipses are *really* nice. They supprised the hell out of me when I first heard them.

I've not bothered to do any cosmetic work in the boot. Its very functional. Next thing to do is to try and eliminate some more rattles. I've already siliconed up between the boot 'skin' and the structural stuff below it. that helped quite a bit. I think the rear parcel shelf is next.

Oh yeah, and as far as boot space goes, I can still fit 3 cartons of beer vertically between the rear of the boot and the amps! What else could you possably want to cart around :p Only issue is that the sub box covers the spare tyre well about 3/4 or more. as good as no spare tyre.

If anyone wants me to post photos, give us a yell and I'll take some and stick em up some where :)

-Shaun
 
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