Gday lads, im looking at injecting a bit more go into my stock xf carby 4spd. What is the best way to go about it, concidering I want to spend as little as possible. At the moment, the only thing done is a 2 1/2 inch full exhaust, and the engine is pretty fresh with only 175 thousand k's.
Im thinking a cam is a definate, but unsure of what to go for and how much.
Also thinking about changing the diff, but I do a heap of driving at 100km's, and dont want it squealing its tits off.
Also thinkin of wacking in a bigger carby, but dont want it to drink too much fuel.
By the way, the car is duel fuel.
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
i say go to www.crowcams.com.au/html/...xflow.html[SIZE=1] and check out what they have got not to sure on carby's as my xf is efi but extractors, big rims, tints, and lowered and you should be close to a 200 kw car
Well I personally would never recommend Crow Cams full stop. Look at several different engine grinds, they use the same masters over and over. Thats pathetic because they have to base their masters on a .842" lifter, none of their generic masters are obviously gound for a .875" lifter (Ford) or a .904" lifter (Mopar). Bigger lifters enable higher lift rates. For what I have heard Wade are a lot cheaper.
As for a good combo I would:
1. Ditch the 2.77 diff (very common) for a 2.92 minimum or go the 3.23 if you can bear the extra ~500rpm.
2. Extractors.
3. 350 Holley. Alot of people bag them but I don't believe they know how to tune them, if they were such a bad carby why are they so predominante in some many racing classes. They are very easy to setup right with mild cams. If setup right fuel economy is not normally any worse.
4. Chuck in a new cam (regrind or billet although new/billet is nicer). Dual pattern(for the LPG) ~204-208@050" with no more than 270 adv on a 110-112LSA installed 2 deg advanced. Also a put in a new chain at the same time.
I would do it in that order. In order to use the Holley you will have to get a carby adapter. This is a very mild cam grind which will produce more torque down low and have very good economy on the highway. When you go over 212@050" you will start to trade of economy for power.
Also blueovalxfboy how does big rims, tints, and lowered help to make 200kw???
extractors, big rims, tints, and lowered and you should be close to a 200 kw car
what do you mean by this blueovalboy? The only performance mod you have mentioned is extractors ( a must to go with the 2.5inch system) and then u say 200kw?
Cam would be a great start, mine has a powerband from 2000 to 5000rpm so you've got some nice fat torque and usable power.
Changing the diff ratio would allow it to launch harder but as you said our four speeds would be reving quite hard and since i drive to the goldcoast often in a 110 zone i dont want rpm any higher.
A freshen up should be required soon with 170 thou.
sorry guys i ment to menchion a 2.5 inch exhaust aswell as fordmuscle_83 said aswell as the extractors and cam and also "not ford" you must be some kind of dick head if you thought i was refering to the rims lowering and tints adding power but i was refering to the previous statement of a cam and extractors and also the 2.5" exhaust (forgot to mechion thanks fordmuscle_83)
Its also interesting that you see ME as a dickhead when fordmuscle_83 asked the same question.
Considering I read the WHOLE lot as one sentence, one could EASILY SEE the inference there. I believed I was actually asking an interesting question based on YOUR statement!!
If you don't know english then don't get ****IN offensive when some questions your grammer, statements, or bullshit.
3. 350 Holley. Alot of people bag them but I don't believe they know how to tune them, if they were such a bad carby why are they so predominante in some many racing classes. They are very easy to setup right with mild cams. If setup right fuel economy is not normally any worse.
the reason why holleys are popular in racing is that that is what they are designed for. they are ratshit for street use, they only have 5(6 in the new gen) stages of acceleration whereas most carbies including standard models have at least 7. they have little or no baffles in the fuel bowl/s so that causes one jet to run lean when cornering. how many ppl can say that they have a holley and dont have to "feather" the accel pedal so prevent it leaning out or flatspotting? i've been a mechanic for over 15 years including a 4 year stint for a carby exchange service and i know how to set one up. setting up a holley can be learnt in a few hours. there is nothing to them - including technology
count me in as one of the ppl that bag holleys
i feel better now, i've had my two bits worth
__________________ TD Cortina ED XR6 Engine, T5, 9inch, Boyd billets, 4 wheel disc etc
AU XR6 - All the usual goodies not worth bragging about
See them both here <=-- Page Updated 15 October 2006
why not put on EFI from a late XF? That put's em up to 120kW from 90-something stock and then you can go from there.. I don't know whether there is any support for chips, etc for this but its worth a good look as that stuff can be bought very cheap...
Dan..
__________________
1988 EA Falcon Pearl Green
Head gasket replacement count - 1
the reason why holleys are popular in racing is that that is what they are designed for. they are ratshit for street use, they only have 5(6 in the new gen) stages of acceleration whereas most carbies including standard models have at least 7. they have little or no baffles in the fuel bowl/s so that causes one jet to run lean when cornering. how many ppl can say that they have a holley and dont have to "feather" the accel pedal so prevent it leaning out or flatspotting? i've been a mechanic for over 15 years including a 4 year stint for a carby exchange service and i know how to set one up. setting up a holley can be learnt in a few hours. there is nothing to them - including technology
count me in as one of the ppl that bag holleys
i feel better now, i've had my two bits worth
That has happened to me only once, putting a 650dp on a 265 hemi. Holleys are cheap to buy, get parts for, and are as plentiful as water.
Hands down Holleys cannot be beat for bang for buck! There was no carby that could be put on the 265 that would no pull vacuum at revs for less than $400. Triple webers at least $1500, triple 2" Su's at least $800.
If the Holley is not right for the application metering block mod and/or air bleed mod may be required. These should bring the carby to almost perfect, the cost will still be reasonable. No offense but did you do metering block mods on your exchange carbys? I would think it would be hard to do these mods on an exchange basis due to not having the car in front of you.
99% of the time we did have the car in front of us. alot of the time we got the car after "the bloke nextdoor" or someone else had had a crack at it. as far as modifying holleys is concerned, redrilling/redirecting of metering blocks is commonplace. u can even buy aftermarket spacer blocks now depending on the application.
opinions are like assholes, we all have one and in my opinion i reckon they are rubbish, just like your opinion they are the duck's nuts
__________________ TD Cortina ED XR6 Engine, T5, 9inch, Boyd billets, 4 wheel disc etc
AU XR6 - All the usual goodies not worth bragging about
See them both here <=-- Page Updated 15 October 2006
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