G'day all,
does anybody know of an ACCURATE dyno. in the Melbourne metro area. All I want to do is a run, no tuning, no nothing. this is a "before" run. Willing to travel.
Thanks
Yeah, I know that, but what I am looking for is a dyno that will give me a reasonable reading to start with. I know what the I6 is supposed to put out, and that is what I am after. I don't want to go to a shop, and be told that my I6 puts out 120+kw to start with. It is a bog standard '98 EL motor, post March '98 which means it is actualy an AU engine. I'm not sure what the differences are, but Crow was most adamant that different cams were needed. Actualy, if anybody can tell me what the differences are between the pre March '98 engine and the post March '98 engine are, I would be most interested. I feel it has something to do with cam timing, but not a lot to do with compression ratio's etc. I do know that my son's EF feels different to drive than the EL. Even he has remarked on the difference.
But it's army surplus, it HAS to be accruate! I mean our governments wouldnt supply the army with inferior equipment and then fail to maintain it to perfection would they?
I'll just go and watch out for the next F1-11 to fall from the sky now. :wnc:
So what dyno do you regard as accurate Laminge?
Considering they can all be fiddled by there operators, who is that you trust and what reference do you use to base that accuracy?
Their just aint a thread alive that you carnt hold back on, hey!
Just pocking
This would be my criteria
1) New Dyno
2) Trained operator with proof of training
3) Service Book of dyno and calibration
4) Appropriate equipment to correctly read atmospheric conditions (spel)
5) Before and after figures
Prob what i would like to see, could be wrong, but hey thats me
Trust is another issue, and for that I would have to talk to people who have experience with Dyno runs, then make my own choice at the end of the day.
Probably not so important so long as it's in good operating order.
2) Trained operator with proof of training
3) Service Boolk of dyno and calibration
4) Appropriate equipment to corectly read atmospheric conditions (spel)
5) Before and after figures
Prob what i would like to see, could be wrong, but hey thats me
Go see the guys at APS (in Heidleberg). There dyno seems to put out accurate results for stock motors. Send a pm to elxr8393 for more info. From memory, their dyno is corrected to australian standards, meaning the results will be more accurate than non corrected dynos.
this seems to be foolproof, but, anything up to 25kw can be gained from carefullly positioning the inlet temp sender to fool the dyno into thinking the motor is breathing hot air...
some of you may have seen this article in one of the street machines' from memory. they ran plenty of graphs with diffrent sensor locations and came up with around 20kw difference....
Yeah, I know that, but what I am looking for is a dyno that will give me a reasonable reading to start with. I know what the I6 is supposed to put out, and that is what I am after. I don't want to go to a shop, and be told that my I6 puts out 120+kw to start with. It is a bog standard '98 EL motor, post March '98 which means it is actualy an AU engine. I'm not sure what the differences are, but Crow was most adamant that different cams were needed. Actualy, if anybody can tell me what the differences are between the pre March '98 engine and the post March '98 engine are, I would be most interested. I feel it has something to do with cam timing, but not a lot to do with compression ratio's etc. I do know that my son's EF feels different to drive than the EL. Even he has remarked on the difference.
The cams are different. It is an AU cam. The AU cam has smaller lobes and different spacings. An EL cam will sit in the head, but the rocker gear wont go back on.
Other differences are conical valve springs, thinner valve stems and the rockers are all the same, smaller AU type. There is no difference in the inlet and exhaust rockers on a hybrid engine. The crank is an AU one as well, but has larger mains on it to fit the EL block. Basically the engine is complete AU head, AU crank, but EL block, sump and pistons...
I have one of the EL/AU hybrid engines, and I think that it feels a bit revier than the standard EL.
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