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accurate dyno.?

2K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  ARM79 
#1 ·
G'day all,
does anybody know of an ACCURATE dyno. in the Melbourne metro area. All I want to do is a run, no tuning, no nothing. this is a "before" run. Willing to travel.
Thanks
 
#3 ·
As long as you use the same dyno before and after the mods, you will get a rough guide to the performance increase.
 
#4 ·
Yeah, I know that, but what I am looking for is a dyno that will give me a reasonable reading to start with. I know what the I6 is supposed to put out, and that is what I am after. I don't want to go to a shop, and be told that my I6 puts out 120+kw to start with. It is a bog standard '98 EL motor, post March '98 which means it is actualy an AU engine. I'm not sure what the differences are, but Crow was most adamant that different cams were needed. Actualy, if anybody can tell me what the differences are between the pre March '98 engine and the post March '98 engine are, I would be most interested. I feel it has something to do with cam timing, but not a lot to do with compression ratio's etc. I do know that my son's EF feels different to drive than the EL. Even he has remarked on the difference.
 
#5 ·
Jim Mock Motorsport can't have its parameters altered so thats about the closest thing to a dyno that can't be changed
 
#6 ·
Post 98 something bout a slightly bigger block/head?

Dunt know for sure but heard or sumthing from someone somewhere
 
#7 ·
Jah_Nix said:
Jim Mock Motorsport can't have its parameters altered so thats about the closest thing to a dyno that can't be changed
Thats all well and good but it helps if the dyno is accurate in the first place!
 
#9 ·
laminge said:
Bwahahahaha

JMM and acurate Dyno....


Bwahahahaahha.. 1st good laugh of the day, thanyou.
But it's army surplus, it HAS to be accruate! I mean our governments wouldnt supply the army with inferior equipment and then fail to maintain it to perfection would they?

I'll just go and watch out for the next F1-11 to fall from the sky now. :wnc:
 
#12 · (Edited)
Rick Rick

Their just aint a thread alive that you carnt hold back on, hey!

Just pocking :p

This would be my criteria

1) New Dyno
2) Trained operator with proof of training
3) Service Book of dyno and calibration
4) Appropriate equipment to correctly read atmospheric conditions (spel)
5) Before and after figures

Prob what i would like to see, could be wrong, but hey thats me

Trust is another issue, and for that I would have to talk to people who have experience with Dyno runs, then make my own choice at the end of the day.
 
#13 ·
laminge said:
Rick Rick
Their just aint a thread alive that you carnt hold back on, hey!
Gotta keep ya busy.... :nerner:
Just pocking :p
Just checking. :eyebrow:
This would be my criteria
1) New Dyno
Probably not so important so long as it's in good operating order.
2) Trained operator with proof of training
3) Service Boolk of dyno and calibration
4) Appropriate equipment to corectly read atmospheric conditions (spel)
5) Before and after figures
Prob what i would like to see, could be wrong, but hey thats me
I'd agree with all of that, though discrepancies still appear, all the time.
Nature of the beast me thinks......

Rick.
 
#14 ·
Go see the guys at APS (in Heidleberg). There dyno seems to put out accurate results for stock motors. Send a pm to elxr8393 for more info. From memory, their dyno is corrected to australian standards, meaning the results will be more accurate than non corrected dynos.
 
#15 ·
Jah_Nix said:
Jim Mock Motorsport can't have its parameters altered so thats about the closest thing to a dyno that can't be changed
this seems to be foolproof, but, anything up to 25kw can be gained from carefullly positioning the inlet temp sender to fool the dyno into thinking the motor is breathing hot air...

some of you may have seen this article in one of the street machines' from memory. they ran plenty of graphs with diffrent sensor locations and came up with around 20kw difference....
 
#16 ·
I recommend a place in lilydale called EFI Dynamics. Run by a guy called Eroll who specilises in the LS1s booooooooo and uses a dynodynamics dyno :eek:)

I knew him from the soarer forum. We all got our dyno runs there and got very similar results with similar mods.
 
#17 · (Edited)
creature3 said:
Yeah, I know that, but what I am looking for is a dyno that will give me a reasonable reading to start with. I know what the I6 is supposed to put out, and that is what I am after. I don't want to go to a shop, and be told that my I6 puts out 120+kw to start with. It is a bog standard '98 EL motor, post March '98 which means it is actualy an AU engine. I'm not sure what the differences are, but Crow was most adamant that different cams were needed. Actualy, if anybody can tell me what the differences are between the pre March '98 engine and the post March '98 engine are, I would be most interested. I feel it has something to do with cam timing, but not a lot to do with compression ratio's etc. I do know that my son's EF feels different to drive than the EL. Even he has remarked on the difference.
The cams are different. It is an AU cam. The AU cam has smaller lobes and different spacings. An EL cam will sit in the head, but the rocker gear wont go back on.

Other differences are conical valve springs, thinner valve stems and the rockers are all the same, smaller AU type. There is no difference in the inlet and exhaust rockers on a hybrid engine. The crank is an AU one as well, but has larger mains on it to fit the EL block. Basically the engine is complete AU head, AU crank, but EL block, sump and pistons...

I have one of the EL/AU hybrid engines, and I think that it feels a bit revier than the standard EL.
 
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