Ford jeepman

I recently changed my coolant and hoses in the VCT I6 and am getting odd readings on my temp gauge. The needle sits on the O of "normal" but when I am accelerating up a hill it starts to rise to the R and when I back off it slowly drops back to O.This also happens when I put the boot in on the freeway. I think the rad fans are coming on too often also. No signs of leaks, expansion tank is full. Nearly 8 litres of Castrol green anti boil/anti freeze added at the change and new genuine Ford thermostat tested before install and hole drilled. Any ideas? Or am I concerned about nothing? I would be interested in knowing where other AU temp gauges sit.
Thanks,
Bill M
AUII
XR6 Ute Auto

LOWAU

I have an AU1, my temp gauge vairies from the start of the "O" to almost near the "R" on hot days when aircond is on.

I am not sure you're supposed to drill hole/s into the temp gauges.

Maybe someone can correct me and explain why you do have to drill hole/s?

cookie

no i think he means a holed drilled in thermastate to let watter flow before it opens to keep it cooler

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THEY MAY BE BIG, HEAVY AND OPEN DIFT BUT FALCONS ARE DRIFTABLE, ASK THE COP THAT CONFISCATED IT!

Ford jeepman

Yeah, I drilled the thermostat same as what Ford did during the recall. I was surprised to see that the Genuine Ford stat did not have a hole! Mind you some of the cars I have owned (Datsun Stanza) had crappy instrument panel circuit board and the temp and fuel gauge would vary or not work at all, I felt like drilling it with my fist!
The temp gauge readings I get are on mild days with aircon off.

CLARKEY

I got an au2 ute and mine sits at the start of the o as well .Might move to the middle of the o ,but no further.You have to drill the hole in the thermo.It is a pain jeepman when you change some thing simple and it isnt quite the same afterwards.

XR_Strider_GuY

It's quite normal for mine to hover around the O and R of the temp reading. With load it will rise but i don't see it as a problem if it's at the R or even a smidge more.

I think why yr now seeing the temp variation is because before the flush the car was perhaps running hotter even without load.

__________________
Motor May 2001 Quote: "Believe it or not, there are actually a bunch of weirdos out there who reckon a six cylinder is the dux gutz. Bugger it: I'm one of them" :s5

AUII Late Ed XR6 HP T5 Venom- Full Tickford Body Kit, 17in Wheels, Herrod Bi-plane Spoiler, Momo Steer/Gear, T-Series Interior Options, Premium Stereo and a very light-tuned 4.0L I6

(FPV-Tickford Club of NSW Member and Co-Founding Member of 3FB Inc, Ford Forums Food Bandits)

Ford jeepman

Thanks for the replies, I will keep an eye on things anyhow and see how it behaves when we have a spell of hot weather,
Cheers
Bill.

cookie

mine sits just bellow the N most times

__________________
THEY MAY BE BIG, HEAVY AND OPEN DIFT BUT FALCONS ARE DRIFTABLE, ASK THE COP THAT CONFISCATED IT!

Ford jeepman

Just an update on the temp gauge readings, the higher than usual temperatures were caused by 50% anti freeze anti boil mix, I came across a post on a website from an experienced engine specialist who made the point that that the more coolant additive in the system the hotter the engine will run so I revised the percentage of R1-33/R1-32 from 50% back down to 33% and the temp gauge is back to its previous postion with the needle touching the left side of "O" on NORMAL.The temperature stayed the same even after a thrash which previously saw it rise and no more excessive secondary fan operation either. One other problem I found was a leak at the lower rad hose where it meets the water pump outlet, on the pump outlet tube there was some casting flash about 1.5mm high which prevented a good seal between the hose and outlet, after carefully filing this down and smoothing the tube with wet & dry( Not and easy job with the pump left in place!) things went together very well, this hose is important as if it leaks at the water pump it dumps coolant on the alternator with predictable results, I was lucky with just a few drops before I spotted it. Some people recommend the 50% anti freeze anti boil but I think from my experience 33% is just fine for the conditions found here in Melbourne, there is enough corrosion inhibitor to protect the cooling system and frost protection down to -16C Thanks to all those assisted by replying to my tedious posts and now I'm off to "have fun" as suggested by a Mr David Flint!
Cheers
Bill.