Loud-EA

hi Im 90% done upgrading my ea II to the bbm, I plan to paste an indepth tutorial once finished, Ive gathered most my info from various threads on FF.

Problem: I originally fitted the EA TB to the EF manifold but found there is not enough room for the acelarator arm to swing. So I started bolting up my sensors from the EA TB to the EF TB but found that my ea has 2 Throttle Position Indicators (1 for auto for 1 for ecu possibly) while the EF uses 1. The bit of metal that is attached to the butterfly in the TB also turns the TPI is only long enough for one TPI. I was looking @ swapping that bit (I dunno the proper part name) with the 1 from the EF TB but It looks like it wont fit up to the EF's acelelator arm.

Could any1 that has done this mod before please enlighten me as to how I overcome this problem. Thanks :)

Loud-EA

Well I have sorted the previous problem, I bent up a bit of steel pipe to fit, current issue is that the car will not start.

when attempting to start:
normal instrument cluster lights come on.
The oil pressure gauge goes right off the dial (I may have plugged a sensor in wrong).
Fuel is getting to the fuel rail (checked)
car does not attempt to crank over.


I also have a left over plug on the main wiring harness that for the life of me I cant figure out where it goes. It comes from the driver side, between the firewall and the engine and sits somewhere around the back of the inlet manifold. The plug is round except for 1 right angle, it has to pins inside.

I checked on the old ea manifold and it does not plug up to the plug on the bottom middle.

Any / all help is greatly appreciated.

falcon_boy

yeah the oil pres wire is not clipped on by the sounds.

if you havent got any cranking at all.
the red wire to the starter is probably off.

if it does crank, check the fuel reg. i spent hours double cheking every thing on mine and it turned out to be the reg. it wasnt holding any rail pressure just returning to tank.

are you just running the ea computer for now??

even with all the sensors off they will still run . . . . just run like shit

i think thats all, hope that helps

Loud-EA

cheers for the info falcon boy :), yes I will be running standard ea ecu until its all running then i will be having a chiptorque installed (its cheap ).

I got stuck into it again this morning, finally saw the clip on the starter motor I had missed.
Engine now cranks.

Figured out I had connected up the 2 fuel hoses in reverse, fixed that (easy way to remember is that the fuel hose comming from the reg to the return doesnt have a filter).
engine starts now.

Current issues:
1: Engine is missing badly atm, Im assuming the fuel injectors on the manifold i bought are f***ed, I will replace them with my ea ones tomorrow and see how that goes.

2: The oil pressure sensor still reads incorrectly, atm I have a white wire with a blue stripe connected (what colour wire is it ment to be).

3: I have a black wire that has broken from whatever sensor/ ground it was connected to, its plug looks like the standard plastic clip for sensors except it has arm/ hook to clip into the connecting plug that leads back to the wiring harness on the manifold. (Hope I explained that well enough).

I think it goes to a round sensor that sits infront / down off the starter motor though not sure and my manual doesnt give me a good pic.

4: Still dunno about that round + right angle clip with 2 pins comming off the main wiring harness.

Loud-EA

Well I swapped the injectors today, engine started then engine bay caught on fire. Im sure it was because 2 of the rubber O rings got damaged when I put the EA injectors onto the EF fuel rail.

Q 1: do u put the O rings into the fuel rail then the injectors (I forced them in with the O rings on the end of the injector).

So Im pretty bummed about the fire, several wires and connectors have been burnt, looks like the spark plug leads, dissy cap & fuel hoses survived fine. Few injector plugs were chared, alot of sensor wires are screwed.

Once Ive relaxed tonight with beers and some good smoke I will pull the manifold off again and inspect the damage.

Q 2: Whats a sure way to check for fuel leaks on the fuel rail before cranking motor. I checked (after the fire was out) by turning key to accesories and i could see fuel weeping from the 2 suspect O rings.

Q 3: What would of caused the fuel to ignite ? perhaps a spark from the dissy or coil.

Loud-EA

well I have rebuilt the wiring harness for the manifold. Ive also cleaned the intake right up, I had to open it up to remove a bit of plastic that some how fell in.

I will be putting the manifold back together tomorrow, fitting injectors and the wiring harness. Then if time permits I will start on the wires damaged in the engine bay.

Ive decided to use a little bit of detergent to help the injectors go in. I may also take this opportunity to spray paint my manifold silver depends on what mood Im in.

Id still appreciate some answers to my pasted questions, thankyou.

Loud-EA

ok I have the manifold back on the car, and yep starts up and and runs etc.

My rebuilt wiring harness works well enough for starting the car but I have several issues I need to resolve.

issues:
1 - tacho isnt reading engines rpm
2 - oil pressure sensor still not reading correctly
3 - dash displays incorrect temperature (dial goes right to end like the oil 1).

current questions:
1 - where is rpm read from, what wire or connectors should I inspect for damage.
2 - where exactly is the oil pressure sensor.
3 - does the connector for the OPS come from the manifolds wiring harness or the one that runs along the side of the engine bay.

notty

i spose i should have got onto this earlier for a bit of help mate!
oil pressure sensor is in the block under the manifold forward of half way if you understand if i can recall correctly its just behind the dizzy!
i dunno about those cars but i would expect the tacho to be read off the back of the coil
and for the engine temp check the sensor that goes into the thermostat housing!
also check the wiring loom that travels down the passenger side of the engine bay there might be some damage to that!
would be nice to know about this stuff as my brother has just bought a XH and is looking at changing the manifold as i have a spare here!
i havent decided weather i wont to give it to him or turn it into a twin throttle body manifold!
cheers

Loud-EA

thanks notty, Im off to the wreckers to scrounge up a new wiring harness for the manifold.

issues:
1 - oil pressure sensor still not reading correctly
2 - dash displays incorrect temperature (dial goes right to end like the oil 1).
3 - idles / runs rough as rough & revs poorly atm, will redo timing once I have a timing light handy.
4 - running very rich

current questions:
1 - does the connector for the OPS come from the manifolds wiring harness or the one that runs along the side of the engine bay.

Loud-EA

Notty: yes I have inspected the other wiring harness and repaired :)
just had a quick play with the dissy (timed it by hand), Its no longer running rough, revs reasonably well etc.

so quick update:

issues:
1 - oil pressure sensor still not reading correctly
2 - dash displays incorrect temperature (dial goes right to end like the oil 1).
3 - Idles @ 1500rpm (I think my ISC isnt hooked up).

current questions:
1 - where is the ISC solenoid for MPFI modules and what wiring loom does it connect to (manifolds or the 1 run runs along the passenger side of the engine bay).
2 - does the connector for the OPS come from the manifolds wiring harness or the one that runs along the side of the engine bay.


btw for anyone else having troubles rewiring their E-series this thread is a wealth of info: Urgent MPFI help