heyy,
i recently bought an EA MPI 5speed, and the engine seemed a bit rough between 1000 and 1500 rpm, so i told the guy before i bought it that i wanted it fixed, he got his mechanic to fix it while he was doing the roadworthy for me.
since then i have had the car for a week, and the other day i washed out my engine bay at carlovers with the degreaser stuff then rinsed it, while trinsing it i lost 2 cylinders i think. and limped it home to dry out (water in spark plugs or something) and when it come good again. it feels like the original problem, before i bought the car, seems to shudder/run rough between 1000 and 1500 rpm. (in any gear).
what do you guys think could be the problem?
has anyone else had this problem before?
Was it a factory 5 speed, or aftermarket one put in?
If your car was not a 5 speed out of the factory, you might wanna check if you have the Auto computer in there still. The Auto computers don't seem to like being in the 1000-1200RPM range(wants to adjust back to idle)
Take one lead off at a time while engine is running (a) use insulated plug lead pliers or (b) Heavy Duty rubber gloves and wear rubber soled shoes and don't earth yorself with the other hand) and if one makes no difference to idle speed its a bad lead. Also check at night in dark and see if any of the leads are glowing abnormally or sparking between each other.
I don't think your engine bay cleaning is related to your poor idle.
You have to start with the basics. Check the leads & plugs as Aussiblue described.
I have a XF MPFI. I too had a shitty idle. It was a corroded head. Does yours push the water into the overflow when hot & not draw it back into the radiator when cold?
hi, you would know if the wrong computer is in there. the auto computer cuts the injectors on decel - if it did that with a 5 speed it would stall the engine everytime u put your foot on the clutch. another way to tell if u have a manual ecu is that the engine idle should increase by about 100 rpm when u put it in gear(clutch engaged or not) as there is a "gear switch" on the gearbox which is wired in with the power steering switch to idle the engine up when a load is detected.
i agree with aussieble and yeahright - start with the basics, check your leads arent arc'ing to the rocker cover - looks like a grey chalky residue where the leads touch the rocker cover. if thats there - they're rooted.
out of interest if you want to isolate which cylinder is missing you can do what aussieblue said about pulling the high tension leads off one by one but as i'm very sensitive to 80,000 volts running up my arm(no matter how much insulation i use LOL) you can also pull the injector plugs off one by one to have the same effect.
it could be one of a million things. try those, if that doesnt work sing out
It wasn't an CFI to MPEFI conversion was it? In any even check you have the correct inlet manifold gasket; the one that's about aa 1/4" thick and not the paper thin CFI one.
90% of E-series shake around 1200 rpm
It seems to be a balancing issue, and it can be amplified if your flywheel and clutch is also out of balance.
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