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Can someone help. My harmonic balancer has been removed to repair oil leaks from the timing cover. How can I tension the harmonic balancer to 125nm and stop the engine from rotating. I was able to spin off the harmonic balancer by cranking the engine with a socket and strong bar attached to the nut. Great trick but how do I get it back tight again.

oldwagon

In the factory workshopt manual(s) there is a tool you can make out of some steel, a couple of bolts and an old starter motor drive. (It goes where the starter motor sits). This tool will lock the crankshaft for you. Maybe an old starter with its guts welded up would do the job? Or maybe put some bolts in the other holes in the balancer an lean on it with a screwdriver whilst tightening up the big bolt...

Aussiblue

Not in my genuine Ford Manual for the EA to ED series. What you need is an installer tool; they are readily avialable and not too expensieve. eg http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...yword=harmonic

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Regards Blue

keep research

Thanks for that guys. I phoned Ford and they told me about this tool. However, in the absence of a tool, they also said to tighten it up best I can. Remove the bolt and washer. Place Loctite on the thread of the bolt and put it back in the hole. Then do it up as tight as possible. Wack a bit more with a hammer and that should do. The loctite will set and should not have any problems.

ebs_4l

yeah, just try holding the belts aswell, will usually be able to get fair amount of tension on it, will need to do it up reasonably tight, fit the belts, then hold them like at the power steer pump, if you want, then just tap ya bar with a hammer

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eb6, t5, stg3 crow, chip, ceramic button clutch, pacemakers, 2.5in stainless, unifilter pod, ported head, thermos, pedders s/low, LSD.... 144.5rwkw so far

ebs_4l

btw, that tool is only for pulling the ballancer on, it wont assit ya at all in holding the crank from turning.......

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eb6, t5, stg3 crow, chip, ceramic button clutch, pacemakers, 2.5in stainless, unifilter pod, ported head, thermos, pedders s/low, LSD.... 144.5rwkw so far

oldwagon

Maybe since I work on antiques (xd-xf) my factory xf manual has the plans for the tool I talked about. Since the starters for crossflows and ohc motors are interchangeable the tool should work. Or just try a bigger hammer.

fordboy98

Loosening or tightening harmonic balancer or crankshaft pulley bolts can be a real challenge. One of the secrets to success is to positively lock the engine so it can't turn even 1mm. Doing this will ensure that every bit of effort you put in to loosening or tightening the bolt will be effective, rather than for instance winding up the drivetrain (if you've put the car in gear and applied the brakes) or trying to hang onto belts etc.

If the bolt simply cannot be cracked, the only real alternative is to lock the starter ring gear against the bell housing. For this of course the starter has to come out which is a bugger of a job too sometimes. What I use to lock the ring gear is a short piece of about 25mm light gauge angle iron, inserted like a letter "A" over the ring gear with the ends of the angled piece of bar engaged on two ring gear teeth. This works quite well locking the motor and has two advantages. One is that the load exerted by leaning on the bolt is spread over more than one tooth, and I've also found that if it is located correctly it assists both undoing and reinstalling the bolt. It's much better that trying to jam screwdriver blades into the ring gear or other similar methods.

Alternatively, if you can get access to the ring gear via the access cover in front of the driveplate or ring gear (ie behind the sump), you can sometimes get a jamming device in there too. Depends on the car type as to what you do, but locking the motor is the only way to go.

ebs_4l

i disagree, the torque wrench doesnt lie, if its tight enough it will click off, if its not, it wont, whether you twist up the tailshaft or stretch a belt, the bolt has to be to the right torque b4 the wrench lets go...

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eb6, t5, stg3 crow, chip, ceramic button clutch, pacemakers, 2.5in stainless, unifilter pod, ported head, thermos, pedders s/low, LSD.... 144.5rwkw so far

Aussiblue

If it's the tool I suggested then read more carefully it is an installer and I have one and it works find in installing. Hammering it on is a big no no as it will stuff up your crankshaft endplay and the main bearing don't like it either.

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Regards Blue