i also have a 94ef which also ran about the same on the temp guage. then i had the radiator cleaned out ( which was 30% blocked with casting sand from the motor) replaced the header tank cap ( seal under cap was buggered & losing pressure) and replaced the thermostat to a 180 instead of the standard 195? ( i think) . guage is now sitting steady around the "L"
this is probably not that relevant, but i just replaced the thermostat in my EA wagon with one from an AU II and replaced the coolant, and now its sits steady between the "A" and the "L" on my guage, which it not too far above cold. if you can get your hands on one of thoes, i would sudjest it. the only mod that was required for me was drilling a tiny hole on the rim around the outside, but that was for my EA, not to sure about EF.
just thought it would help.
just one thing, dont let it get too cold (I.e. new thermostat that makes it run colder), because that will ruin your power and fuel consumption. EF's do tend to sit a bit higher on the gauge, i have EL dials in my EF and its about the same. Just keep an eye on it, and if it rises rapidly or to a very high point, either turn the thermos on yourself, or let the car do it itself (they will come on automatically at a certain temperature).
After a long run on a reasonably warm day i sometimes open my bonnet when its parked to let it cool down a bit quicker too.
Yeah in the warmer months my EF tends to sit right on the "O", I have been told my Radiator is around 30% blocked ( estimate ) and I know my radiator cap is crapped out also.
Get the radiator cleaned out with new side tanks fitted, check all hoses, replace the radiator cap and thermostat and she'll be sweet
Lets go find that Hotdog tree I planted
Lowered EF Futura
Black Steelies ( too cheap to buy proper mags )
Can't agree about removing the 'stat. It's there for a purpose, several in fact. Obviously it's there to promote a quick warm up. The longer the engine is at lower tempertures the more fuel the ECU will pump into the engine because it thinks it's still cold, or warming up. Exit good fuel consumption!
It's also there to CONTROL coolant flow. The water pump can circulate coolant very fast, far in excess of what the engine should normally need. If the coolant circulates unchecked without a 'stat it won't collect sufficient heat from the hot parts of the engine as it is circulatuing through the system. And you run the risk of caviation which will aerate the coolant, further decreasing its efficiency.
It's true the rads do block up, especially since they are horizontal cross flows. The sand problem is well known. If the rad is clean inside, and everything else is on spec, there should be little need to depart from a normal 'stat. Remember that the ECU is programmed to deliver its best results at NORMAL engine temp, as set by a NORMAL 'stat.
First off check your coolant colour! If it changes colour and losses coolant thats a good sign of a head gasket problem.I say problem as they can just partially ware/blow the gasket and the car may show no real signs of a problem other than a loss of coolant and discolouration.A small rise in temp on hot days can be noticed sometimes but the car will still drive and so on as normal for ages before any real danger signs pop up.
And yes check (clean flush replace if need be) the radiator and water pump and hoses.
Just go's to show how strong a motor they are!
Mine runs around the O-R on a hot day or in traffic but when cruising along the highway it sits back around the A. That's with a cooler thermostat and an 18 month old radiator too. The high compression (12.5:1) is probably contributing to that though...
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