G0lg0tha

Hi all,
last night, while playing in the shed :) I tried to put my fly wheel onto my engine.

I noticed that one of the bolts isnt threaded right up to the head of the bolt and thus when the bolt was torqued up it mushed the threads in the crank.

I know this is a factory bolt because its EXACTLY the same as the other bolts, except there is no thread on the very top of the bolt.

Also this bolt has a little red dot on the top, meaning someone somewhere at some stage marked this bolt as the one with the shoulder.

My question is:
Is this a factory thing? Is it normal to have a bolt that when torqued up, destroys the threads in the crank?

I wonder if perhaps this is some early form of locktight to stop the bolt coming loose? If it is then thats really annoying

Any help would be great :)

71ford

Hey, this may or may not help, but I just had my fly-wheel of in my 250 2V and all the bolts where exactly the same with no markings or missing thread...... and when putting it back on, it torqued up fine....

What engine you have?

atec77

Remove the plate and check the holes , as the duches said to the duke , find the one where its meant to fit :)

G0lg0tha

Ill check the holes tonight,

But as far as I can remember, all of the holes are threaded all of the way.

Is one of them supposed to be unthreaded at the top and some joker in the past has mixed them up and butchered it?

That would make sense actually..
hmmm....

The engine is a 7 bearing main 200CI from an XR falcon.

71ford

The engine is a 7 bearing main 200CI from an XR falcon.[/QUOTE]


That block would be relatively the same as my 250 2v out of an XY ay?? If not the exact same block??? and the threads and holes where all the same on mine.....

G0lg0tha

Unfortunately these blocks are actually different. Another post mentioned that Pre XR was one configuration, and post XR was your configuration..

They look the same, and take the same head, lifters etc etc, but the crank is completely different and sits higher in the block.

I found this out the hard way trying to install a gear drive that I bought.

I cant fit the gear drive because the idler wheel fouls the crank.

Shame really as if I'd known I would have bought the "better" block as then I could have fit all the 250 parts and not had a problem. As it stands I couldnt even get a high volume oil pump! No one made them. I had to get a "new" standard one from Mellings. Luckily the cam manufacturer recommends not running a high volume pump as its a waste of power!?!

I then bought a Rollmaster set, but the person in the shop sold me a 250 kit with 1 key way, when I explicitely asked for a 7 keyway 200 set and thus it doesnt fit..

So now I have a brand new gear drive, and a brand new economy rollmaster set lying around my shed.. $650 later I know that there are differences between these blocks.

The frustrating this is that I cant finish off my engine because I need the timing chain to degree my cam, so I cant put my lifters, head, timing cover or sump on. ..

Its just one bolt that is different and I only noticed because I spent 3 weeks polishing them. If I had been less attentive to the bolts I probably wouldnt have noticed...

I think you probably dont have this bolt thingo though because your block is different and thus you have a different crank...

Do you have a rope seal on the back of your block or a 1 piece rubber seal?