does anyone use a g tech performance meter and if so are they good? and is it worth running premium in my EA S pack? it has hi flow cat,2 1/2 exhaust,genie extractors and wade 1004 cam!also would it be worth while putting an adjustable cam gear on?
G-tech can be good if calibrated properly, I have one my self. Running premium is good better if you have aftermarket a/f ratio adjustment. As for the cam gear should not need it if your cam is set correctly.
G-techs are very variable, don't trust them too much.
Running premium has little to do with A/F ratios, and much more to do with ignition timing.
I prefer the 98 octane fuels as they tend to be more refined and burn cleaner.
It certainly wouldn't be necessary to use it in a EA, however it wouldn't hurt either, and you may be able to advance your timing further.
And cam gears are needed as there is no other way to set the cam, so in almost all cases it is needed as it is pure luck if it is in the right spot.
You should always check the lift at TDC, or whichever other way the cam grinder has given you to dial the cam in
Rick.
__________________
4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
I tested out a cold air intake with the G-Tech horsepower runs. Was averaging 140rwhp after 6 runs with the cold air duct blocked and 150rwhp after 6 runs with the cold air duct opened up. With the consistent figures that i was getting, it sounds pretty accurate. Under car movement, the cold air duct proved to be efficient, as proved by the g-tech, whereas a dyno cant wont be able to measure the effectiveness of a cold air intake duct.
G-techs are very variable, don't trust them too much.
Running premium has little to do with A/F ratios, and much more to do with ignition timing.
I prefer the 98 octane fuels as they tend to be more refined and burn cleaner.
It certainly wouldn't be necessary to use it in a EA, however it wouldn't hurt either, and you may be able to advance your timing further.
And cam gears are needed as there is no other way to set the cam, so in almost all cases it is needed as it is pure luck if it is in the right spot.
You should always check the lift at TDC, or whichever other way the cam grinder has given you to dial the cam in
Rick.
So its not a matter of just putting the cam back in? When i fixed my head gasket i just whacked the stock cam back onto the head. How do you adjust the cam or "dial" it in?
It won't matter too much with a stock cam.
I'm mainly talking about after market cams where the cam grinder has given a spec as to where the cam should sit.
Rick.
__________________
4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
I have just looked at a stash of reviews on the g-tech pro vs dynometer.It is pretty obvious after looking for 2 hours that the g_tech unit is very accurate and a worthwhile tuning tool for all of us.I am so impressed im going to buy 1 this week!!!The tests conducted on various sites comfirmed that 1/4 mile times are extremely accurate on g tech
I have just looked at a stash of reviews on the g-tech pro vs dynometer.It is pretty obvious after looking for 2 hours that the g_tech unit is very accurate and a worthwhile tuning tool for all of us.I am so impressed im going to buy 1 this week!!!The tests conducted on various sites comfirmed that 1/4 mile times are extremely accurate on g tech
WE have tried a G-tech and compared the times with Calder and Heathcote..
G-tech is a toy..but if you want one, get it from ebay brand new around $130..
Gee I thought they were ok ...well theres no advice like firsthand advice.But gee the reviews are overwhelming.What differences did you find in times?less or more? Ps I have no reason to doubt you man but I have known speed radars to clock telegraph poles here in Sydney driving at 160 kph.Gee if that were the case Imay very well ditch my ford and buy a telegraph pole to race at eastern creek!!
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