spend 40 bucks take it to ford and ask them to advance it for you as i think there is only 2 marks 0 and 10 degrees give it a go but it would be a bitch to mess with the distrib to much hassle well worth 40 bucks for someone else to do it
Find out how to put the car into diagnostic mode (manual or the net). Then using a timing light advance it a little past the ref mark. It sits at 10 degrees, I wouldn't go more than 13 without premium ULP.
My local Ford dealer doesn't even know the wiring for the auto computer!!
Take that $40 and buy your self a ignition timing gun if you don't already have one.
Then all you need to do is connect a wire located near the brake booster(on EA.. I think EB is same) to ground. (should have more detail in your service manual on location) PM me with your email if u need a pic.
This will put the car in self test mode. Start her up, idle will be sitting higher then normal. This is when you can check the timing.
Point the connected timing light (connecting instructions come with light) to the cars balancer, and you should see a mark/notch on the balancer. The two markings on the Timing Chain Cover are what you use to set timing.
The mark on the left is 10deg Before Top Dead Center (BTDC). If the notch lines up with the 10 deg mark, then it is set correct to factory specs. If its closer to the TDC mark, then it needs advancing, and you were probably losing power as a result.
To advance/retard the timing you will need to loosen the nut that holds the Dizzy in position (you need a spanner or socket set, 13mm i think). After this, you will be able to turn the dizzy left or right. One way advances, the other retards (you will see the notch move), keeping in mine to only move it a little at a time.
You can advance the I6 up to about 14deg running PULP (16 is pushing it) and this is about 5-6mm left of the 10 deg BTDC mark.
Once you are happy with where the timing is, tighten up the bolt, and recheck timing to make sure it didn’t move while tightening.
Take the car for a drive, you should notice power range differences with and significant timing change you do. Keep an ear out for a sort of rattling noise under load coming from engine especially at low rpm. This is called pinging, meaning you have turned up the timing too far for the type of fuel you have.
Its quite a lot to explain, but in real life it should only take about 5-10 mins to do, and is pretty easy.
Hope that helps.
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just a couple of things to bear in mind, when u start the engine in diagnostic mode(plug bridged) the engine will idle up for about 15 seconds and then come back to base idle. u only have 2 minutes to do all your adjustments before the ecu stops "learning". if the two minutes isnt enough to do what u have to, switch the key off, wait 15 seconds and start again.
it's quite a simple procedure - the whole lot just sounds more complicated than it is. i reckon have a go, if u stuff it up then pay the $40. any mechanic beyond a 2nd year apprentice can do it and u shouldn't need to take it to ford.
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