How much should i expect to pay for a reco'd 250 crossflow leaded engine? What about just a reco cylinder head? Where should I go to get one? Im in melbourne's south eastern suburbs.
I want to make sure my engine is okay before it gets sent off to get more life breathed into it by COME racing.
hang on if your sending it off to COME racing for some more life you may as well get them to rebuild it (I'm assuming there a performance shop of some kind) because most performance mods to older motors involve replacing parts and balancing things.
Breathe! It's only the internet....
Im just getting them to do my head and give me a new camshaft.
They only supply the parts and dont do any fitting so i wanted to make sure my block can hold up hence asking about reco prices.
Once i get a new carby and manifold they tell me it should be good for around 240-250 Horspower. They told me my bottom end should hold up if it has less than 150000 kms and/or is in good condition Im unsure of my current engine, its getting checked tomorrow.
I rang around today and i can get 2nd hand engines with 3 months warranty with a mechanical check to tell me everything is A okay for $400. So i might do that instead.
If i got COME to do my whole engine it would cost another $2500 and i cant justify (or afford) spending that much on my XF if not needed.
AI think your better off getting them to do the block as well. If you spend a little more money that a standard rebuild you will get brillant results.
Imagine strengthened bottom and means a more wild cam profile and higher compression. = more power and more fun.
Spend the extra money if you can you won't regret it.
Breathe! It's only the internet....
how can they charge $2500 for new rings, pistons, bearings and a rebore (thats even if you need it!!) parts for your engine should be dirt cheap. its not like you are running 25psi and a 150 shot of NOS through the bloody thing!!!! you wont need forged pistons or magic bearings and stuff, just one step up from factory in the quality dept for rings, bearings and pistons if you want to, but stock stoff will be fine.
i used to have a 1985 telstar with 189,000k on it, was my parents car before mine i needed a runabout, they never changed the oil or anything, it was a complete shitbox that couldnt pull the skin off a rice pudding.
when i lost my licence i pulled the head off it, ported it fairly hard and got the cam reground as big as possible for stock rockers (was only a 25/65 cam) ported the intake manifold and port-matched the two, fitted a webber two barrel carby from a XE falcon and made an adaptor plate to fit the two togather.
with stock exhaust and stock valves and no tuning it would keep up with my mates EB auto up to about 90ks, once i hit third he would pull on me, but i raced a few 202 VCs and stuff and killed them. sometimes i would rev it to like 6000 or more just to see if it would break - it didnt.
it took me 8 days to blow the gearbox up proper - 3 holes in the casing, the pinion in the diff was gone dunno where, there were gear teeth everywhere...after that it would spit out engine mounts with monotonous regularity. sometimes the engine would rock so hard backwards on a 1-2 shift that the dizzy would hit the bonnet and the cap would come off a little, the rotor would hit the cap and stuff them both, and the engine would stop...
eventually i got the shits with replacing engine mounts and dizzy caps and rotor, got a loan and bought my sexy XR, the telstar went to the dump, thats how much it was worth, but i still have the head :)
the moral of the story is - stocko stuff is ok if you are only going for a little extra naturally aspirated hp, so stock stuff for your application is ok, but check the bloody compression first you may not even have to rebuild the bottom end.
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There are so many of those engine around I'd just mod the motor you have. Besides if it sh!ts itself there are plenty more out there to replace it. The parts you put on this motor possibly won't be damaged if something goes bang either!! Besides you know why it possibly would go bang...the way it's driven!!!
Also a moded motor realy has NO warranty!!!
Don't be afraid to try something new. Remember, amateurs built the Ark...Professionals built the Titanic!
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For the exta money this is what they do :
From an Email--
We can do a whole long motor (ST-3) which includes the head (can flow up to 300Hp and rev to 6000rpm) , cam (rpm range 2200 to 5500 rpm) and a
fully balanced blueprinted short motor with ground crank, resized rods
balanced with higher compression, pistons and assembled. The price is $3630. /end quote
Im going to get a compression/oil pressure test done today and if it turns out good buy a second hand engine and use the cylinder head off that so i can drive mine til the gear is ready to go in then i have a spare block. And if the test is bad ill just do the work on the second hand motor first and drop it in when the job is done.
I got my compression tested today. and good results. Perfect in all cylinders. Apparently my Car which i paid $700 for has had a recent rebuild.
So i went to a wreckers and bought a new head for $80 and thats what im sending to COME racing. Ill have it back by the 21st along with a new cam and its all getting installed for me for $220 which im pretty stoked about.
Thanks for everyones help.
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