I have a starting problem with my AU2 4.0L... When cranking, it immediately fires up and goes fast idle as it should (while key in crank position). As soon as I let go of the key the idle drops off and the engine stalls. A second crank and it starts and idles perfectly. Hot or cold does the same thing. Car runs fine other than this.
I've removed and cleaned the IACV and the throttle body as suggested in this forum but still no joy. I've also adjusted the base idle as described in the forum. 65,000km on the clock.
A friends AU3 is doing the exact same thing so I'm thinking this could be a common fault.
1. Any other ideas as to what causes this?
2. Should the valve inside the IACV normally sit to one end (ie open)? Mine seems to sit about half open and the spring seems a bit loose. It's power off position appears a bit indeterminate. I assume manifold vacuum must pull it closed (against the spring) when the electrics are removed.
The IACV is functioning correctly except on the first start following cranking. ie with the intake pipe removed you can hear it working as A/C is switched on and off and the idle speed is controlled as expected.
Thanks CJ2609. Yeah, I've cleaned it pretty well with carb cleaner. You can hear and feel (at the port to the IACV inside the throttle body) that it's doing it's thing as the load on the engine changes (A/C or P'steer or putting into Drive etc). Idles perfectly under all conditions (except that 1st start).
No mods done to the motor, exhaust, or intake. This is just a straight family runabout and this problem has only surfaced in the last month or so (just after the warranty ran out of course).
The ECU should command the IACV fully open during cranking (to allow foot off throttle starts) which it is. Then when the key is released it should control the idle to suit conditions (ie fast idle when cold). It's as if the ECU is commanding the IACV to close fully when the key is released. On the 2nd attempt it works perfectly.
Don't know if it is the IACV itself or another sensor that's faulty. I think I need to look at what a brand new IACV looks like - mine seems sloppy inside.
I have the AU1,2,3 Max Ellery service manual but it's pretty useless and I still don't know how to get into the KOEO/KOER self test modes (without scan tool) either.
Shop around for the IACV. The price fluctuates heaps between dealers. I paid $150 for mine as I was stuck in the country... Fairford Spares in sydney quoted me $80 for the same item, i checked out of curiousity :-)
Usually if this thing is at fault, it will stall when coming to a stop or going through a corner! Just what the wife wants hey? :-)
Could be MAP or Fuel regulator? So many things.... Take it to a mechanic and see whats failing on diag machine..
im having this very smae problem with my 1984 Meteor at the moment. drives fine but then when you stop its all over. even holding the accelerator in one position the tacho fluctuates and if around 1000rpm it just wants to die. not the right section but any ideas?
__________________ HSV Herpes Simplex Virus GAME OVER!
Ok - I've got it guys! What you need to do is disconnect the battery to reset the computer clock to the vehicle manufacture date. This way it thinks it's in "under warranty" mode, not "1 week out of warranty - lets get on with fleecing the bastard" mode. You see, when you take it in for Ford servicing to rectify the preprogrammed "out of warranty faults" that magically appear 1 week after the warranty expires, that's what they do. And ream your wallet for the priviledge. Piece of cake. No need to thank me.
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