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Old 03-15-2003, 02:53   #1 (permalink)
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Intermittent Timing Chain Rattle

I have been having a drama with the timing chain on my EA, It was replaced around 5 months ago along with the guides and tensioner. Suddenly I have been getting an intermittent timing chain rattle, it doesnt seem to do it when cold, it only rattles on idle when warm. I have taken the rocker cover off and checked the chain, I cant lift it from the Cam sprocket at all, if I press on the left hand side of the chain with a flathead it will move in about 2mm at most. The car has been siting for nearly two weeks and was perfect before this. I am thinking that maybe the timing chain tensioner is a little sticky or I have bad oil pressure on idle. What are some things that I should try? Im thinking of removing the tensioner, cleaning it up and re-installing it. Then maybe try a Thicker oil next service. I am use 20-50 at them moment, but the car has 330k on the clock so perhaps a 60 or 70 grade may be justified. If anyone has had a similar problem or have any idea of whats going on please post here
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Old 03-15-2003, 13:20   #2 (permalink)
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Ok I have found the problem, the upper part of the tensioner guide is broken so it looks like ill be ripping the timing cover off sometime next week. What would cause a guide to break within 4-5 months?
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Old 03-15-2003, 16:06   #3 (permalink)
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faulty manufacture
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Old 03-15-2003, 17:33   #4 (permalink)
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Was the tensioner set up properly. Which one broke? The one on the right looking from front.The floating guide?
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Old 03-15-2003, 19:50   #5 (permalink)
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No it was the tensioner guide, left one front front view.
So far I have:

Removed rocker Cover
Removed Radiator & Shroud
Removed all belts

Now I am up to the clutch fan which doesnt seem to want to budge, should I just undo the small allen key screws on the back of the fan or keep trying to undo that big left hand thread nut on the waterpump shaft? I dont seem to have an allen key the right size so I will have to buy one tomorrow ( anyone know the exact size? )
So basically I need to remove the clutch fan, crank pulley and then the timing covers right to come off
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Old 03-15-2003, 20:35   #6 (permalink)
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I got the clutch fan off, put the engine on TDC and noticed that the mark on my cam sprocket is a little retarded. The car is definately sluggish down low but flies once im passed 100km's
Ive attached a pic, this is of rollin's car, but I have marked in red where my mark is compared to his. I will double check to make sure the engine IS on TDC although I have previously checked the accuracy of the pulley mark.

I reckon its a full tooth out
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Old 03-15-2003, 23:14   #7 (permalink)
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I have gotten as far as having to remove the crank pulley, I have bought a puller, the only thing is that they have only given me two bolts that have the right thread and are the right length, Can I still do it with only two bolts?
How much force does it usually take? I found the engine started to turn so I will have to lock it with a screwdriver in the flexplate or something. Can someone please give me a step by step guide to removing and re-installing the crank pulley on these things?
Thatd be greatly appreciated
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Old 03-15-2003, 23:24   #8 (permalink)
Two SC 61's = trouble
 
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You have put a good screwdriver through top/ cam sprocket and head being carefull not to damage surface, use some wood or something to spread pressure on head / rocker cover area..
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Old 03-16-2003, 02:12   #9 (permalink)
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Presumably you're talking about having problems holding the ballancer/pulley from turning while you remove the bolt?

HOW I DID IT: - to remove the bolt I used a socket extension inserted thru one of the holes in the ballancer and tied to the pwr steering tensioner pulley support bracket with a length of rope tied in a loop around the two - strong rope - twisted with a short extension in the centre of the span. I did the same but from the other direction to torque up the bolt after fitting the new ballancer.

You could also look at rigging two rods of some sort thru two holes and wedge a third longer bar across/between them - the whole setup done so that you can still get your socket into the centre - if you can picture what I mean? - ie. use holes more or less adjacent to each other - not opposite.

Don't put things into the threaded holes tho - I'm talking about the other ones.

I'd personally be very wary of trying to hold it via the cam gear.

Definitely be careful of wedging anything thru the balancer and against the timing cover etc - ie. don't do it.

For the puller you do definitely need to source a third bolt - also, be very careful about the end of the puller axis bolt that goes into the centre of the crank - on the puller I got, that end actually had to be ground down to fit inside the bolt hole without buggering the threads - I discovered this the hard way by realising that the damned thing was screwing into the crank - ie. wasn't just bottomed on it's point the way it should be - luckily I only stuffed about three threads into the crank.

Another trick is to get the ballancer centre part nice and hot with a heat gun - both for removal and again for re-installation.

For installation - if you can get some dry ice in a plastic bag and drape that across the end of the crank as well then even better - use gloves and safety glasses when handling dry ice - even when it's in a bag.
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Old 03-16-2003, 02:30   #10 (permalink)
Two SC 61's = trouble
 
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Holding it with cam gear is in the Ford and Gregorys manuals !!!
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