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JMM dyno results

9K views 60 replies 26 participants last post by  Bass Crazy 
#1 ·
As promised, I have some before and after dyno results with various modifications to a 97 I6 XH 5spd ute (128000k).

The first dyno run I made was a few months ago and unfortunately I'd already fitted an exhaust system, so I don't know how much power it had when completely standard.
Anyway, it's peak power was 122kw at that point.
From some other reports I've seen, the standard car produced 118kw.
4kw from an exhaust sounds feasible and although it didn't feel heaps more powerful, it was a little more willing to rev.

The next modification was a the fitment of the broadband manifold, this made quite a difference to the bottom end performance, but made no noticeable difference up top.
The dyno proved this assumption showing around 15kw increase from around 2800rpm to 3600rpm. The top end actually dropped very slightly down to around 119kw.

Step 3 came the JMM extractors, plugs and leads.
The engine felt very lively after these went on, revving out to redline much easier and not feeling so restricted. Power seemed to be improved right across the range.
Again the dyno proved this with a 3-5kw increase from the moment the throttle was opened. Peak power was back up to around 123kw.

Step 4 came the JMM DEV3HL cam, valve springs and vernier gear.
Wow, this made a huge difference, the engine now loves to rev all the way to the cut-out of 5700rpm.
Power seems much the same at low revs, though a little stronger at the manifold changeover point (3800rpm), but above 4500rpm is where it really takes off.
The dyno again, re-inforced what I felt, with an improvement of around 7kw between 3500-4200rpm (no improvement below this though), and a 15kw improvement above 4500rpm to peak at 138kw.

An excellent result I think. JMM claim 150kw from this package which has now been followed to the letter, though taking into account dyno differences and engine age (128000k), I can comfortably say that the DEV3 HL package lives up to it's claims.

I did speak to Jim from JMM about the results, and he suggested that I could advance the ignition timing a little further and possibly get a little more out of it. I haven't had a chance to do this as yet, and I don't really want to spend another $40 to play around with ignition timing, but I will report back with seat of the pants feel, if it appears to make any difference.

Rick.
 
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#2 ·
118kw seems high for standard.

but an overall improvement of 20kw from stock.
seems very little honestly
 
#4 ·
Hi Guys,
Well I can definately give the thumbs up to what soxx has done with the JMM gear...
From what it was before the JMM gear and Manifold change to now, WoW, what a huge difference...
Revs up very quickly and gear changes cant come fast enough....Overall a very nice package that will keep a smile on your dial.
I Highly recommend it !

Regards
Shane
 
#6 ·
Sounds very promising for people like myself! At least it'll keep some people down in their seats and stop criticising something they have yet to feel or see for that matter.
 
#9 ·
Soxx said:
The next modification was a the fitment of the broadband manifold, this made quite a difference to the bottom end performance, but made no noticeable difference up top..
LOL, whats next? Dialup extractors?


20kw gain!! what did all this cost you? $500? $1000? I think any more and you did you dough bigtime.
 
#10 ·
Without wanting to appear offensive, I have to agree - 20 rwkw does seem a little low for the kind of work you have done. 150 as claimed would have made it 30-odd kw; a little more reasonable I feel for the money involved.

Perhaps the dyno you used was out of tune: another run on a different dyno might be in order.

But hey, glad to hear you're happy with it!
 
#11 ·
ok thats it

BOF you tell me any mod from after market performance shop that you can get 20 odd rear wheel kw out of an I6 for 500 bucks....

still thinking !!!!!! yes thats right there are none buddy.... come on give the mocks a break they do good work for reasonable prices and get results.

glad your happy soxx , 138 rwkw is a bloody good effort that would be close to 200kw at the fly i reckon , mighty impressive, tough I6, would go even better with a 3.7 diff, maybe the next thing on your agenda?

thanks

yldsix
 
#12 · (Edited by Moderator)
edited by russellw
 
#13 ·
Laminge- I'll get the dyno graph up ASAP.

BOF- It actually cost me around $500 to do the manifold, the exhaust I scavenged off my older retired ute, extractors/leads/plugs were $600, the cam/vernier gear/valve springs were $880.
Near enough to $2000, and I now have around 20kw more than your XR6 and the same as an AU11 5L. Sounds pretty cheap to me.

yldsix- I already have a 3.5:1 disk brake 9" in it, I won't be changing that in a hurry.

Rick.
 
#14 ·
peoples you have to remember that he not only gained 20kw at the top, he got a nice fat increase the whole way through the band pretty much, which would give much better acceleration overall than an extra 40 at the top and a big loss down the bottom as you usually get with a big cam(though soxx, i think you drive like i do - anything under 3800rpm is for skirts lol, so thats not as big a deal)

so he didnt just get 20kw, he got from 10 to 20 MORE over the whole rev range, thats a lot in total when you think about it...
 
#15 ·
Rollin - that is a good point. Maximum power at high revs means nothing if it takes you ages to get there. I would also be interested in having a look at the power and torque cuves of this car - if the increase is right across the rev range, then the money is well spent.
 
#16 · (Edited)
Ok guys.....i have read a whole lot on rwkw figures, but at the same time watch quickcorty run a 14.78 with 127rwkw.....so I ask

What ballpark figure should I aim for to see mid 14's from the EL? She's stock atm but im looking at getting another donk to throw on the engine stand to go feral on...not sure if im sticking with auto or going manual....and already planned 3.7 diff. And no, i wont go turbo just yet...

I have also been inspired (by quickcorty) to go fetch myself a crapper 5spd EA, strip it out, and go a little nuts (use its light weight) just to flog around on weekends....would this be a little more of a better option rather than going feral on the Fairmont??
 
#17 ·
Re: Re: JMM dyno results

sikEA said:
What ballpark figure should I aim for to see mid 14's from the EL? She's stock atm but im looking at getting another donk to throw on the engine stand to go feral on...not sure if im sticking with auto or going manual....and already planned 3.7 diff. And no, i wont go turbo just yet...
Depends totally on the weight of the vehicle, torque, drivetrain setup and traction. I run 15.6 and have 115rwkw but my car is an XF station wagon so if i was to put this setup into a lighter car it would be close to a 14.

My quick check says you'd need around 140 rwkw and a nice flat torque curve, 5 speed or an auto with about a 2000-2500 rpm stallie and around a 3.7:1 diff to put you into the 14's. If your torque and power don't compliment each other expect a much slower ET.

In my opinion torque is the most overlooked part of every street car. High KW figures are good but they are made high up in the rev range, so to use the power you need rev it hard, requiring short diff ratios (3.9-4.11) and a 5 speed/auto with a big stallie (3000+) making the car pretty much track only. An engine with a mountain of torque will win more street battles than a high KW engine any day of the week. Plus they generally get better fuel economy because they don't have to be revved as hard.

Of couse, high KW and good torque is the best, this is exactly how the XR6T gets down the quarter faster than the XR8, flatter torque curve and more consistent power delivery plus a small weight saving means the lesser powered car on paper is in reality faster.

Hope this helps,

xdc351
 
#18 ·
Don't the mildly worked 5-speeds run high 13s or something?

Mildly worked = extractors, exhaust, cam.
 
#20 ·
I think the one I heard about was an ED, but frankly have NFI if I've got anything right about it :) Just thought I heard something like that...
 
#21 ·
13's from an mildly worked ED, thats fairly quick...
mildly worked EA managed 14's and an EA is fairly light.
 
#22 ·
Re: Re: JMM dyno results

mongrelEB said:
Don't the mildly worked 5-speeds run high 13s or something?

Mildly worked = extractors, exhaust, cam.
Even a high 13 would need at least 175rwkw in a full weight ED (including driver) and would need a pretty extreme drivetrain too.

I have raced an ED XR8 at calder park that had a bit of work done to it (basic stuff like exhausts, air filter, etc but work none the less) and he was running 15.3's with a manual.
 
#23 ·
Meh guess I misremembered the numbers then.
 
#24 ·
If your thinking times, you have to match the driveline to the engine, right across the range, for example, a manual EB XR6 130rwkw, 3.45LSD, 15inch 225tyres, light, 60ft 2.0 14.3, cold nite at calder. EB 4L TURBO, 3.45LSD, Unichip, auto, 180rwkw, 15inch tyres225, 60ft2.0, 13.3.

So a EB, 4L auto with 3.9LSD, 2500rpm, with say 135rwkw, with a 60ft of 2.0 should be able to run a 14.7 all these times can be acheived with mph from 95-100mph
 
#25 ·
Re: Re: JMM dyno results

BLWNEB said:
for example, a manual EB XR6 130rwkw, 3.45LSD, 15inch 225tyres, light, 60ft 2.0 14.3, cold nite at calder.
Seems a little quick, considering he's running the same 60ft times as you and there's no mention of a turbo. When you say light, do you mean he's lightened the car? Would need to weigh about 1250kg's to be that fast.
 
#26 ·
the 14.78 @ 94.5 i did was with a 2.92 single spinner diff, and running leanish after 4000rpms. oh and a close to 2inch bit in my zorst near the extractors.

with a full 2.5 inch exhaust, higher fuel pressure reg and a lsd with higher gears, 3.7, i want to go better than a 14.5 @ 95-96.

then next is a ef head that is sitting on my bench waiting for a port job and hotter wade cam and springs, and on to a 13sec 1/4!
 
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