Hey all, just putting extractors on the EA today and saw a sight I wished I hadn't when I got the standard manifold/heatshield off.... green coolant all down the exhaust side of the block...
Now we've had a look at it and there isnt any water in the oil, and there doesnt appear to be any gasket crap in amongst the coolant on the side of the block...
It's done a headgasket once prior in it's lifetime and we thought perhaps that the bolts might have needed to be re-torqued and that perhaps instead of the gasket being screwed, perhaps the head bolts need to be tightened (re-torqued) and hopefully fixing the leak...
does this sound about right or am I in for a whole new headgasket?
-Clinton
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Rosewood EAII Fairmont 02/90. MPFI 3.9L (formerly CFI), 4spd BTR Auto. Skyline geared 3.45g open center 28 spline 4 pinion differential & axles. 2 1/2" Cat Back Exhaust. King Super Low Springs. Sound: Equalization and amplification by Clarion; Head unit by Sony, Front, Rears and Sub by Pioneer. Planned mods - t5, Extractors, Painting Grey Strips and new front and rear bar.
Its probably best that you use this as a warning sign to redo the head gasket. Ive seen some peoples head/block destroyed from a broken head gasket (the hot gases merge through to neighbouring cyliders and take molten aluminium with it!). With it leaking on the outside it doesnt mean that its leaking on the inside - but you I wouldn't be surprised if it started leaking on the inside in the near future (this will be oil in the water and cooling dramas). Torquing the bolts again seems nasty but give it a go (I wouldn't know what to do them to because its a certain tension plus a quarter of a turn when the gasket is originally torqued uq). Dont be scared - second hand motors are around the $500 mark these days and you can upgrade to a 4.0 litre while you r at it!!
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Falcon S, MPFI, red, Resprayed with colour coded bumpers, motorvator extractors, walker hi-flow cat, 2 & 1/2 exhaust system, cold air intake using hi-flow K&N pod filter (heat sheilded), stage 3 crow cam with a vernier cam timing gear. Severly ported and polished EB 4.0L head, shimmed valve springs - compression ratio (9.5:1 +). Making 145rwkw!!
same prob herer except i have oil leaking out instead. wasnt a prob till i degreased the engine to get that built up dirt gunk off. didnt have an oil leak till then. about a week after that i noticed a nice line of oil running down from the head.
degreaser is NOT always a good thing!!
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LOL, welcome to my world... mines been leaking for 3 months now. unfortunatly the only way to fix it is to replace the headgasket. i checked the tension on mine and it was still at the right tension so they didnt come loose and i dont have a broken head bolt. what happens is the head will no doubt be corroded in the water jackets and it will eat the shit out of your headgasket hence the leak. usually happens on the first and sixth cylinder. also the 2 jackets right at the back of the head go pretty badly. i would just source a good EB head get it pressure tested and vacume tested if it passed this then get it surfaced. welding is way to expensive to even bother with. a complete reco change over head is around $400-$500 as a guide. then theres the gaskets, head bolts,coolant and oil. hope this helps you.
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1994 COBALT BLUE ED FAIRMONT GHIA
Next Mod - T5 Manual Conversion
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with this problem always coming up, is there a real good head gasket that can be used that lasts for a long time...do they make a copper head gasket for the e series cars?
with this problem always coming up, is there a real good head gasket that can be used that lasts for a long time...do they make a copper head gasket for the e series cars?
No copper gaskets as far as I am aware and there is no way you would want one because they are known for leaking. Solution is use a good head gasket, (AU, ACL Race Series etc) new AU head bolts and have the block and head checked and machined. You can also add a fair bit more torque to the head bolts, many ford mechanics will do this and it seems to work.
The normal head gaskets are fine for 200,000 if your car is properly maintained. Keep the radiator and engine clean (give it a good flush with some additive when you change coolant) and full of quality coolant. Dont use tapwater. Keep hoses in good nick etc. Also, when you get the head gasket replaced, make sure that the block and head surfaces are flat and perfectly clean (remove ALL traces of old gasket). Use new head bolts and torque them up as specified.
Replacing a head gasket really is an easy afternoons work if you are lucky (head not warped or corroded), have a few tools, and a mate to help out.
I might just get an EL or similar series motor (Cbf working with an AU or converting EF to coil pack) and put it in... cos I think my motors slowly on its way anyway
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Rosewood EAII Fairmont 02/90. MPFI 3.9L (formerly CFI), 4spd BTR Auto. Skyline geared 3.45g open center 28 spline 4 pinion differential & axles. 2 1/2" Cat Back Exhaust. King Super Low Springs. Sound: Equalization and amplification by Clarion; Head unit by Sony, Front, Rears and Sub by Pioneer. Planned mods - t5, Extractors, Painting Grey Strips and new front and rear bar.
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