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Milky oil, not Head gasket

16K views 16 replies 8 participants last post by  au2low 
#1 ·
A while ago I posted about a blown head gasket and I finally managed to save up enough money to fix it. The problem is I still have the same problem that I had before it was done. I can't work out why my car still has milky oil.

What I did was remove the old head (the old gasket was falling apart), I scrubbed and scraped the block making sure it was very clean and put the new gasket on. I put on a new reconditioned head with new valves and new springs (about $600 worth). Bolted that on with with new head bolts and then put the engine back together. I put in some water tried to start the car but it had a flat battery, so I left it for the night and to go get the battery charged in the morning.

I just went out there to take out the battery to get it charged and I checked the oil and it's gone milky :(

I put the gasket on properly and the head bolts so that can't be the problem now! My gregory's falcon manual only says it's it gasket or the head which it can't be as both are new and the car hasn't even been started yet.

What else could it be? Do I need a new engine? If I do need a new engine does anyone want to do the work for a reconitioned EA head with new valves and springs :p
 
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#4 ·
I used gasket stripper on the block. That stuff was disolving my skin it was so harsh! I just unwrapped the head from the plastic and put it on. I wiped both the head and the block with a rag making sure they were dry before bolting everything together.
 
#5 ·
The oil that runs through the radiator is actually transmission fluid, use in auto cars. I has nothing to do with engine oil.

Did you put ne oil in after you changed the head gasket??

Assuming you did everything else correct, it is possible that you picked up a cracked head from the reconditioner , or you may have a warped block.
 
#6 ·
I looked the head over when I bought it and it looked fine no visible cracks or anything. I drained the water and oil before putting the new head gasket on. I haven't flushed the oil through yet (as I haven't started the car) is it possible that some milky oil was still in the engine even though I let it drain for a few days?

If I take the head off to have a look whats going on would I need to get a new head gasket and bolts or would they still be ok to reuse?

My transmission fluid is dark brown/black I think it use to be red.

I forgot before: EAII 3.9 MPFI, 4-speed Autotrans
 
#8 · (Edited)
Just tried to start it and didn't have much luck. I got it to start twice for less 10 seconds and it ran bumpy as hell and now I have a flat battery again.

The oil is super milky now. I'm gonna drain and refil it and see what happens over night maybe the ford mechanic fairy will pay my poor car a visit over night and make it all better!

Edit: I got a jump start and got the car going by putting my foot on the accelorator. It idles terribly with tons of of white smoke/steam comming from the exhaust and the oil is milky again. I thought I'd take it for a drive just to see if that would help it a bit and I have to say the new head/valves/springs gave a noticable power boost. It was just like before the head change, fine while driving but once it was idle the engine would cut out. If I move the throtle cable into the high idle postition would that help?

The car has just been sitting on my front lawn for 2 months could that be affecting it?
 
#9 ·
Could very well have a split in one of your bores. If water gets there so quickly without running it there is definately a big prob that shouldn't be too hard to find. Drop the oil and water then just fill it with water and see if water comes out the oil drain plug a day later.
 
#11 ·
I didn't change the oil filter but after 2 oil changes I don't think it should be too much of an issue. I'll try what Grant Porter said and see what happens.

Even if I put the new head (assuming it's ok) on a bit wrong and warped it or something else horrible wouldn't it take a few minutes driving for the problems to start?
 
#12 ·
Firstly ,I see no mention of you water level in this thread.Are you having low coolant from the bottle? If you do lose water you must have a crack in the engine block.I am basing my assumption on the fact that you have put in a new cylinder head.
Empty the oil and fill the car with water only.Wait 2 days and open the sump plug.
Does the radiator coolant have milk in it?
 
#13 ·
The cars sitting in my yard filled with water and with no oil. The water was a only a little bit murky when I flushed the radiator.

When I started the car I took off the radiator cap to see if the water in the tank would bubble but it didn't do a thing just sat there, I don't seem to be loosing water. I only have a small amount of steam comming out the back now. The weird thing is that the car seems to run great while in idle and drives well while I'm accelorating but when I put my car into gear from idle the engine will cut out if I don't accelorate straight away. After taking my car for two drives around the block the engine bay smelt like burnt rubber but I'll assume thats from me not cleaning grease off the belts after touching them :p

Oh well wait and see what happens I guess.
 
#14 ·
Mate you dont have any engine problems from what youve told me .The oil going milky is left over residue from your leaking head gasket.Change the filter and refill it with oil ok?Next step is that it sounds to me that you have an air leak.Check your intake manifold forleaks.If you dont find the leaks Let the car idle in its spot for about 20 minutes and make itidle high to burn all of the crap that would have got stuck on your spark plugs ..at this time your work area will have shitloads of smoke from unburnt oil and crap on yopur exhaust and engine ..Keep an eye on the temp gauge though in case you cook it..
 
#15 ·
I left it for a couple of days to see if water would come out the oil drain hole and none did so Yay!

I changed the filter and put in new oil with lifter cleaner (I know I don't have lifters but the bottle said it cleans carbon and sludge) I let the car idle for 30 minutes and there was a shit load of white smoke that smelled heaveily of petrol. I checked the water and it stayed level with no bubbles the oil isn't going milky so I took it for a drive. While accelerating or idle the car seems mostly fine, just a little shakey on idle. When I accelerate from idle the engine still cuts out unless I accelerate very slowly followed by accelerating very quickley. I couldn't find any leaks is it possible that I didn't tighten the intake manifold enough or have I stuffed up the timing some how?
My injectors tick like crasy too, far more than they use too.

Thanks for the help guys I would have given up by now without any advice!
 
#17 ·
Just rebuild one of those ea motors myself, had the same problem as you to start with, as soon as it was rebuild, still smokie and steaming from the exhaust, after a damn good flush, and a good clean oil change and clean out, it seems to be fine now :)

So yeah, guess it was just old crap left in the radiator / block etc .. all good now :)
 
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