A while ago I posted about a blown head gasket and I finally managed to save up enough money to fix it. The problem is I still have the same problem that I had before it was done. I can't work out why my car still has milky oil.
What I did was remove the old head (the old gasket was falling apart), I scrubbed and scraped the block making sure it was very clean and put the new gasket on. I put on a new reconditioned head with new valves and new springs (about $600 worth). Bolted that on with with new head bolts and then put the engine back together. I put in some water tried to start the car but it had a flat battery, so I left it for the night and to go get the battery charged in the morning.
I just went out there to take out the battery to get it charged and I checked the oil and it's gone milky :(
I put the gasket on properly and the head bolts so that can't be the problem now! My gregory's falcon manual only says it's it gasket or the head which it can't be as both are new and the car hasn't even been started yet.
What else could it be? Do I need a new engine? If I do need a new engine does anyone want to do the work for a reconitioned EA head with new valves and springs
Did you wipe the face of the head and block with thinners or wax & grease remover before you put the gasket on? Any traces of oil can cause them to leak.
You could also have a split bore or a cracked head.
Rick.
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4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
Last edited by Soxx; 07-22-2004 at 21:15.
Reason: Wasn't thinking properly, brain fade perhaps.....
I used gasket stripper on the block. That stuff was disolving my skin it was so harsh! I just unwrapped the head from the plastic and put it on. I wiped both the head and the block with a rag making sure they were dry before bolting everything together.
I looked the head over when I bought it and it looked fine no visible cracks or anything. I drained the water and oil before putting the new head gasket on. I haven't flushed the oil through yet (as I haven't started the car) is it possible that some milky oil was still in the engine even though I let it drain for a few days?
If I take the head off to have a look whats going on would I need to get a new head gasket and bolts or would they still be ok to reuse?
My transmission fluid is dark brown/black I think it use to be red.
Ah, if you have't started it yet, it's very likely just a bit of water from before.
Don't take the head off before you run it.
Rick.
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4L I6, naturally aspirated producing 173.5rwkw.
14.410 @ 96.49mph with street radials.
What's that?..... Did I hear you say TQE power?
Just tried to start it and didn't have much luck. I got it to start twice for less 10 seconds and it ran bumpy as hell and now I have a flat battery again.
The oil is super milky now. I'm gonna drain and refil it and see what happens over night maybe the ford mechanic fairy will pay my poor car a visit over night and make it all better!
Edit: I got a jump start and got the car going by putting my foot on the accelorator. It idles terribly with tons of of white smoke/steam comming from the exhaust and the oil is milky again. I thought I'd take it for a drive just to see if that would help it a bit and I have to say the new head/valves/springs gave a noticable power boost. It was just like before the head change, fine while driving but once it was idle the engine would cut out. If I move the throtle cable into the high idle postition would that help?
The car has just been sitting on my front lawn for 2 months could that be affecting it?
Last edited by jajig; 07-23-2004 at 00:48.
Reason: New info
Could very well have a split in one of your bores. If water gets there so quickly without running it there is definately a big prob that shouldn't be too hard to find. Drop the oil and water then just fill it with water and see if water comes out the oil drain plug a day later.
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Falcon S, MPFI, red, Resprayed with colour coded bumpers, motorvator extractors, walker hi-flow cat, 2 & 1/2 exhaust system, cold air intake using hi-flow K&N pod filter (heat sheilded), stage 3 crow cam with a vernier cam timing gear. Severly ported and polished EB 4.0L head, shimmed valve springs - compression ratio (9.5:1 +). Making 145rwkw!!
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Milky oil, not Head gasket
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